Did you find the Leica Monochrom worth it?

Fortran code to convert M Monochrom to 16-Bit DNG from 14-bit using curve Gamma= 1.0 with offset -1;<p>

then Silver Efex2 with Tri-X emulation.<p>

M Monochrom at ISO 10000, <p>

<a href=" title="gamma1m1_SEFX2 by fiftyonepointsix, on

Flickr"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7760/18399758435_65bc8993c5_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024"

alt="gamma1m1_SEFX2"></a><p>

<a href=" title="GAMMA by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7775/18261144226_13c9d2981f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="GAMMA"></a><p>

^ What the Fortran code is generating and using, the Gamma= 1.0 curve selected for this image<p>

Fortran conversion to 16-bit DNG using the function Gamma 1.0 Intercept -1+Silver Efex 2, Panatomic-X emulation.<p>

ISO 5000 <p>

<a href=" title="Gamma 1.0 M1 DNG-16, Panatomic-X

Emulation by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8859/18402031041_db9c88305c_b.jpg"

width="682" height="1024" alt="Gamma 1.0 M1 DNG-16, Panatomic-X Emulation"></a><p>

Straight LR export, 14-bit DNG. <p>

<a href=" title="Straight Export, DNG-14 by

fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/275/18396206762_a773e1543a_b.jpg" width="681"

height="1024" alt="Straight Export, DNG-14"></a><p>

These are with the 1950 Jupiter-3 5cm F1.5, completely rebuilt. It required major surgery. <p>

As Shot: <p>

<a href=" title="Straight Export from DNG-14 by

fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8834/18213795198_2ed577d5d2_b.jpg" width="1024"

height="682" alt="Straight Export from DNG-14"></a> <p>

Converted to 16-bits (from 14 Bits) using a Gamma 2 curve, then SEFX2 High Structure <p>

<a href=" title="Gamma 2 M1, + SEFX2 High-Structure

Smooth by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/498/18213798870_5547c4a76b_b.jpg"

width="1024" height="682" alt="Gamma 2 M1, + SEFX2 High-Structure Smooth"></a> <p>

I have absolutely no interest in the M246. It is just 12-bits, and does not even use the full range. 0:3750. <p>

Having bit-depth means being able to stretch the image until it "pops". <p>

Just tried 3 test shots each of the same scenes with a medium yellow filter and without on the M9. Clearly better tonal rendition

and detail after converting to b&w from shots with the yellow filter on the lens, at least on my monitor.

Remains to be seen how I'll take to this while shooting, removing and replacing the filter based on whether

I want the shot to be color or black and white. I suppose I could just pretend there's film in the camera I'm

limited to, which is in effect what you have with the Monochrom.

Brian,

No pressure-- but I bought my M8 a few months ago in no small part to your and Arvid's extensive discussion and work about being able to

access the RAW files through service mode. I think it is working pretty well.

How would you compare your M8+RAW experience to the MM's in terms of other factors besides high ISO, which obviously the MM has

and the M8 hasn't?

Thanks

Ray, My apologies for the very late reply...I have been using my M246 for nearly two years and am still very happy with the quality of the images. The camera gets great images from the lenses that I use (all Leica:) 21mm Super Elmar, 24mm Elmar, 35 'cron Asph, 50 'cron, 75mm Apo Asph 'cron, and 90mm Apo Asph 'cron. When I've done my part correctly (focus, holding the camera steady, etc.) the images are remarkably sharp and full toned. I do find that I have to watch the exposure of highlights because they can get blown out but find there is so much shadow detail that a little under exposure will keep the highlights manageable and still have open and detailed shadows. I will usually open the DNG file in photoshop and use the SilverEFX filter plugin to edit. I just like that user interface. Usually I'll brighten up the shadows and drop the highlights. Sometimes Ill apply "structure" to the mid tones to give me a bit more tonal separation. These edits are rarely more than just subtle tweeks. The really nice thing about working with these files is that there is so much information in the shadows-unlike in film where a thin negative was extremely difficult to work with.

When shooting I keep the ISO on "auto" and let the camera set the optimum. I limit the iso to 8000. but will occasionally go to 12000. At 8000 there is no noise at all and the image looks like it was shot on a very fine grained film with smooth, even, grain. Previously I had an m8 which had a lot of noise at the 8000 level and a smaller sensor. My only complaint is not having a lower iso available. I like to shoot with my lenses wide open and at iso 320 I sometimes have to use ND filters.

Regards

ay