Sony A7R in manual mode

<p>I have a set of nice Canon FD glass that I use with my Canon F-1n. I have been thinking about getting a Sony A7R or similar mirror-less camera to use with a Canon adapter. I understand that I have to stop down and focus manually. Can someone tell me how good is the focusing with these cameras in manual mode. If I use a long lens like a Canon 300mm F/2.8 Fluorite S.S.C. would there be a problem getting sharp pictures consistently? I say this because I used my daughters mirror-less camera with a Canon FD 85mm 1.2 aspherical S.S.C. and the pictures were O.K. but not great. I must admit I only shot a few pics and didn't have time to master her camera.<br>

Raphael Vazquez</p>

<p>I have been playing around with an EOS-M and FD lenses. Have not come to evaluate them completely but focussing is problematic because the EOS-M has no viewfinder and no focussing aids like focus peaking. Placed on a tripod it is possible to enlarge the image (5x/10x) which greatly helps. Definitely no combo for fast shooting. </p>

<p>I've had no problem with Canon FD lenses on mirrorless micro 4/3 Olympus E-Pl2 body. Focus is relativly easy and super accurate if you use the optional EVF. I've not even had a focusing problem with my Spiratone 400/6.3, and I have deteriorating vision pretty badly.</p>

<p>So there is light at the tunnel ! Will maybe rent an A7R for a few days and see if I like it.</p>

<p>You may find my post <a href="/digital-camera-forum/00cTKu">HERE</a> of some value.</p>

You can easily zoom in with the evf, or use focus peaking, as an aid to focusing manually. Also, there is an adapter by

Techart that actually allows autofocus with manual focus M-mount lenses; I believe you can use a Fd-M adapter on top of

this and have autofocus on your FD lenses.

Actually, my response was misleading - the techart pro indeed works as described with the A7R mark II, but I believe the

original A7R lacks the phase detect autofocus that the adapter needs. I thought you were talking about the newer model.

<p>I can't afford the full-frame Sonys, so I get by with a Sony NEX 7. Still, it has the same resolution as the A7 and A7 II (24mp), so it has good resolving capabilities.</p>

<p>I have a Canon FD adapter for my NEX and I make extensive use of my FD glass with it.</p>

<p>Raphael, you mention using the FD 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical with your daughter's mirrorless, but you didn't tell us what brand and model it is. This is helpful information.</p>

<p>I also own an FD 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical, and I've used it a lot with my NEX 7. That you were not thrilled with your results is not unusual. The 85/1.2 is a very challenging lens to use, especially when shooting wide open at f/1.2. The depth of field is so thin at close distances that the slightest movement by the photographer can affect the photograph. I noticed that I had to pay special attention to my stance. I had to make sure I didn't move back and forth at all after focusing the lens. This actually improved my photos' sharpness considerably.</p>

<p>About the A7's electronic viewfinder (EVF): it is good, but it is still a far cry from a good optical finder, such as what you'd find in a Canon 5D, for example. There's no substitute for glass. The resolution just isn't there with the EVF or the LCD display. I make frequent use of my NEX 7's EVF, but I also have focus peaking operating, which helps to confirm that I'm close. I prefer to use the display on the back of the camera, though, just because it's bigger. If the subject permits, I'll also use the magnification settings to zero in on the point of focus to make sure I've got it right. This almost always agrees with the focus peaking, btw, but it never hurts to double check. Obviously, however, there will be some situations in which all this methodical preparation will not be available and that's when you just depend on your chops and focus peaking as you grab your shots.</p>

<p>Here's a near/far study I shot with my 85/1.2 Aspherical and NEX 7. Wide open at f/1.2, ISO 100. Object was to render as much "near" detail as possible while also displaying blown-out bokeh from distant subjects. This shot required movement discipline to achieve the sharpness I managed.<br>

<img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/woodgrain_nex_fd85_12a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="1200" /></p>

<p>Hi!<br /> I used the F1n during several years.<br /> I've been very happy to be able to re-use my beloved FD lenses on a Sony Nex7 and even more on a Sony A7R.<br /><br /><br /> The Sony A7R is (almost) a pleasure to use with FD lenses.<br />'Almost' because SOny ergonomics is... well, special. But that still works OK for me.<br />Actually, owning a Canon 5DSR now, using teh A7R with FD lenses is the only reason I keep the A7R.<br /> <br />Manual focusing with FD lenses on the A7R is easy and fast.<br />If you want first to be fast, focus peaking is efficient. But not accurate enough for critical sharpness. (Although with 36Mpixels, 'critical' is... really high level)<br /> So for best accuracy, focus peaking and then Zoom in viewfinder is best.<br />But, as usual with manual focus, you probably won't need to change focus for each picture from the same distance.<br />That makes it a working option.<br /> <br />There are cases that work in a less efficient way though: <br />Manually focusing a 20mm 2.8 lens in low light proved to be a problem for me. <br />But with most of my favorite lenses, it works like a charm.<br /> I love shooting concerts, people, street,... with those lenses.<br /> Just remember you're shooting with a huge resolution. 1/focal speed rule doesn't work here.<br />Select at least twice as fast (100mm=1/200s)<br /><br />Here are some examples with Nex7 and FD lenses:<br />http://www.photo.net/photo/16111652&size=lg<br /> http://www.photo.net/photo/15511653&size=lg<br /> http://www.photo.net/photo/15511661&size=lg<br /> http://www.photo.net/photo/15511663&size=lg<br /> I have plenty of others, but not here...<br /> <br /> About longer lenses: <br />it is more difficult to focus without a support, just because of size and balance of the lens/body combination. <br />I've been doing pictures with the Canon EF 400mm 5.6L + 1.4x TC and, well, I need a tripod.<br />The FD 80-200 is still OK though.<br />Playing with the Canon FDn 500mm 8.0 reflex lens is still manageable in Focus peaking, since it's shorter and lighter, but zooming then will be like viewing through a x100 binocular... You also would need a support.<br /> <br /> My favorites FD lenses for A7R:<br /> FDn 85mm 1.2L<br />FDn 20-35 3.5L<br />FDn 80-200 4.0L<br />FDn 28 2.0<br />FDn 35 2.0<br />FDn 50 3.5 Macro<br />...<br /> The resulting images with those lenses is clearly on a par or better than with my Canon EF L lenses on 1DX.<br />As an example, I compared the older FDn 85mm 1.2L and the newer EF 85mm 1.2L II and, well, there is a small difference in contrast (due probably of newer coating)... But ease of use, size (and cost) of the older FD are BIG plus in the balance.<br />The older FDn 80-200 4.0L also shouldn't be shy against EF 70-200 2.8L IS (OK, v1. The v2 is truely much better)<br />...</p>

<p>I have an a7 II. I chose it for the IBIS to use with manual FD lenses. There are two situations that come up with focusing. Either I'm running a zoom lens on my metabones adapter, or I'm running a prime. On a zoom, the best way I find to do it is zoom in to maximum, focus, and pull out to frame it, and snap the shot fast. The second way to do it is, if the zoom is low level or it's a prime, map a button on my manual mode of the camera body to be "focus zoom-in preview" or whatever it's called. It will blow the preview up to a small section of the center of the image, and let you get a crisp focus on an eye, or an animal, or whatever you want focused.</p>

<p>I shoot in manual on my a7 II. I have the fore wheel set to shutter speed, the back wheel set to aperture (not used in this case), and the rotary select wheel set to ISO. When shooting with FD glass I set ISO to auto, manually select shutter speed, and rotate my f/stop ring on the lense to what I want. With the light sensitivity available on this body, I can often put it at much higher f/stops to get better focus on my subject, even if I'm a little off. That way I can "best guess" it and it will still come out okay.</p>

<p>If you can, ditch the a7r and get an a7 II. the in-body image stabilization will really lend itself to your older manual FD lenses. It breathes new life into them, makes it easier to take shots with slower shutter speeds, and is a lot more consistent with indoors or low-light than hand-held shots on my A-1.</p>

<p>I am not sure what camera my daughter has but the pictures I got were nothing compared to those of Raoul.</p>