Loading Nikor tanks

<p>Tonight I tried my first ever 116 film in a Nikor tank.</p>

<p>I inherited my 35mm Nikor (that I still use) from my grandfather almost 50 years ago.</p>

<p>Before then, he told me that when I first use it, I should use the metal guide that gives the right curve to get it in the reel, but after not so long, I should be able to do without the guide. And yes, that is exactly what I did. Result is that I lost the guide many years ago.</p>

<p>But now I have a 116 tank, probably not so used, guide and instruction manual included. Since it is harder to get the right curve with wider film, I did use it. Maybe not next time.</p>

<p>The 120 tank and reel that I have didn't come with one (bought used). </p>

<p>But I wonder, how many people do, and don't, use the guide? Not using it give a better feel for what the film is doing, going in the right or wrong way. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Glen -- I have both 120 and 35 mm guides. They didn't come with the tanks & reels, but had to be purchased separately. As with many subjects in photography, they had adherents and detractors. I used them only when I was loading a big job -- a couple of 4 reel tanks of 35 or all four of my tanks with 120. Basically, there are beveled SS pieces on the ends of spring loaded arms that engage the center of the reel top and bottom and a curved chute that the film goes into. When I used them, I still touched the film with index finger as I turned the reel to be certain it didn't kink. Some folks complained about scratching, I didn't have that problem. I'll gladly lend you the 120 version if you'd like to try it. S<br>

Afterthought -- I found the device more useful with the larger format than with 35mm. Personally, I found it harder to keep the proper curvature consistent manually with 120.</p>

<p>I only know the curved chute, not the rest that you describe.</p>

<p>I have done a few rolls of 120 by now, and didn't have a problem.</p>

<p>Well, 120 reels have wide spacing between the turns. I suspect 220 would be harder.</p>

<p>I'll pass for now on the loan. </p>

<p>I've never tried the guides. I have no desire to try them, I like to feel what the film is doing.<br>

What is critical with 120 size (or larger) is properly centering the film between the spirals when you clip the end into the reel. Feel the corners and get them centered. This is fairly critical with 120, gets more critical with 116, and very critical with 122. (I processed a "found film" roll of Verichrome Pan last Sunday.)<br>

That the 120 and larger reels all have wide spaced wires helps. </p>

<p>Oh, that was Verichrome Pan 122 that I processed. Latent images from the late 1960's.</p>

<p>Of course, where else but on YouTube could you find such instructions, painfully detailed and narrated in unctuous tones? You could start there.<br>

It's really easy to learn to load these reels, I've learned it at least a hundred times.<br>

Unfortunately, every time I come back, I need to learn it all over again. Never used any guides, maybe should have.</p>

<p>Here is a pdf of David Vestals useful reminder:</p>

<p>My first (and still favorite) 35mm reel doesn't have a clip. After about half a turn, the film stays in place. I have other 35mm reels, which might have clips.</p>

<p>Using the guide (chute) with the 116 reel, I didn't need the clip, and didn't use it. I could hold the film in while starting the reel rotation with one hand, and the other holding the guide. </p>

<p>Most Nikor 35mm 36-exposure reels don't have clips. But the film is so much stiffer it's easy to start.<br>

I hadn't thought about the advantage of easy "centering" with the film guides. Not that I ever expect to find one in 116 or 122 size.</p>

<p>Wait! There are guides?!</p>

<p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/172339391974</p>

<p>still has the box and instruction sheet, so might not be very used. Along with the box and instructions, the guides seem to get lost after not so long.</p>

<p>The curved metal piece is what I call the guide. Otherwise, you hold the film between two fingers to curve it just enough to go in. </p>

<p>loading a tank is a manual skill. just like learning to tie shoos in Kindergarten.,<br>

I started with 120 film and an old tank in 1948.<br>

the wider grooves halped<br>

later in 1950 127 film and a FR Special tank.<br>

I still have that tank and some new ones. from 1960 on I used only 35mm film.<br>

the sharp hook in the senter and leaning how to be gentle handling film helped as lot.<br>

the nikkor and other metal reels are more of a challenge.<br>

but practice in daylight wilth some film and you will get the hang of it.<br>

Once learned, it is a manual skill youwill not forget.<br>

prectice.<br>

it is easy to becoe disoriented in the dark.<br>

you do not need eyes to do this. same as tying shoes.<br>

the worst thing to do is forcing the film ona reel.</p>

<p>Even though I seldom load film. I find when I do, the hand skillis still there.<br>

do not become discouraged.</p>

<p>My first tank was a Yankee II in 1967. That one got lost somewhere along the line, but now I have a new one. (Bought used, but it doesn't look like it was ever used.) </p>

<p>I inherited a Nikor 35mm in 1968, and have mostly used that for 35mm since. It is only in recent years that I used a stainless steel reel for other than 35mm.</p>

<p>I bought an FR tank for 116, before I got the 116 Nikor. For those who don't know, it has a plastic reel with a hook, so you can load it either outside in, or inside out. </p>

<p>And I now have a 127 Nikor reel, though haven't used it yet.</p>

That's what I want, a ss 127 reel.

<blockquote>

<p>That's what I want, a ss 127 reel.<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>They are not so hard to find on eBay, though often overpriced.<br>

<br>

Mine was $10. That is about as high as I would go.<br>

<br>

One of the few times I ever really missed on loading a reel was with 127 film. (From an Imperial Delta, so the pictures weren't all that great, anyway.)<br>

<br>

I tried both a Paterson reel and FR reel. The humidity in my changing bag was increasing, and the film kept getting stuck. The FR reel has a hook to load from the inside out, but it still didn't go in right. So as to avoid that problem again, I bought the SS reel. <br>

<br>

The one on eBay now looks like a 35mm reel cut in half, then plastic posts added to give it the right spacing. (And is overpriced.) The one I have has the wider spacing like 120 reels, and no plastic posts .<br>

<br>

</p>

<p>Didn't even know they made guides. When I decided to transition to steel reels and tanks for chemical economy reasons, I just loaded a sacrificial roll of 135 and 120 in the daylight a few times, then tried a few times with my eyes closed, then started doing it in the dark bag with real film. Wasn't too hard to pick up.</p>

<p>Guides should come with real Nikor tanks. I don't know about other brands.</p>

<p>The 116 tank came with box and instructions, so I suspect it wasn't very used. </p>

<p>Never used the guides. It was HARD to load a ss reel at first, but once I learned how to roll it, I loved the SS reels. It was easier "for me" than the plastic reels. At the local community college, I was "the strange guy who uses the stainless steel reels and tank."<br>

On my 35 and 120 reels I do NOT use the clip in the middle. The problem is, if you do not CENTER the film in the reel, clipping the film will cause it to kink when you roll it in. Leaving the film loose, allows the film to self center.<br>

I had always used Nikor 35mm reels. I first tried a 120 reel at a local shop with a dummy roll of film, I got it on the first try. Just have to see with your fingers.</p>

<p>If anyone is still interested in 127 reels:</p>

<p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/201796167976</p>

<p> </p>