Yashica D

<p>Found a Yashica D in my grandpa's garage (now my garage) over the weekend. Unlike most of his old cameras, this one actually seems to work. It's a bit shocking, really, since it wasn't in a case or a box, it was just sitting on a shelf covered by lapidary equipment, fishing reels and dust. My only concern is that the shutter button seems a little sticky and I'm not seeing a noticeable difference in shutter speed, regardless of setting. Still, I've ordered a roll of 120 that will be here on Friday so I guess we'll see what happens. The lenses, focus screen and magnifier are all excellent condition with no signs of deterioration.<br /><br />Fun fact: This camera triggers my 580EX II flash through the on-board PC port more reliably than my 5D does.<br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>They are great bullet proof cameras. The lens is very sharp, I believe its a Tessar design. </p>

<p>Well Lucky You!! You can of course open the back and see the shutter so if it's firing the same regardless of settings, that should be visible.<br />What Michael said is possible. This was a bridge model in the years and after this era all the lenses were Tessar types. This easily determined. a Yashikor lens is triplen and a Yashinon is the Tessar type. Both are good though. Taken many a fine photo with the humble Yashikor. So there are "D" models for both lens type.</p>

 

<p>My Yashica D has the Yashinon lens but is in need of some work before it can be used. The Yashinon on the Yashica Mat 124G I had years ago was very good. I agree that the Yashikor is also capable of good results. I have a Yashica A and a Yashica 635. Both have the Yashikor and if it is closed down a few stops, its performance is very nice. My complaint about the 124G is that its winding mechanism has many plastic parts and these do not hold up very well </p>

<p>The lens is Yoshikor so, not Tessar. My film arrived today (a day early!) so I'm excited to get the roll through it to see how it all works. I'm going to clean/rebuild the shutter release mechanism this evening since I can tell that it's operation is unreliable. It always operates but the shutter speeds seem not to be working properly. My research suggests it might just be an issue of congealed lubricants.</p>

<p>My Yashica D was a great little beast that took wonderful photos. I found its shutter and winding knob more reliable than the film transports/shutters of my 124G cameras, which tended to break down with extensive use. But the D just kept on going for years.</p>

<p>I was right about the self-timer and shutter release mechanisms, cleaning and lubrication has caused them both to work properly. I will make pictures this weekend.</p>

<p>If the shutter has both X and M sync positions, be sure it is set for X before attempting to use the self timer.</p>

<p>Thanks Mike. I will be sure to remember.<br /><br />I'm going to test the flash sync later today since the setup I'd planned on using employs two of them. I love that the leaf shutter <em>should</em> sync all the way to its 1/500th limit! If all goes well, I should be shooting tonight. This is my first experience with a TLR or medium format but clearly not my first with OCD.</p>

<p>Well, now I'm stuck. I'm attempting to load my Fujifilm Neopan ACROS 120 film and it's a little confusing. I have completed one revolution of the take-up reel and encountered a dash on the right and left border of the backing paper. The information I've found insist that there are alignment "arrows" on the backing paper (not dashes) and that they typically appear after approximately one revolution of the take-up reel.<br /><br />Can anyone confirm that there are definitely arrows I should be looking for and not dashes? I don't want to wind too far.</p>

<p>Here's what it looks like...<br /><br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>Okay, never mind my conundrum, I managed to find a YouTube of someone loading Fuji Pro 400H into a Mamiya 645 and there were clearly arrows and "START" printed on the backing paper so I assumed all Fujifilm 120 would be the same and just kept winding. It eventually showed up.<br /><br />Unfortunately, my first and second frames are going to be a double exposure because, as I sit here typing this, I realize that I forgot to advance the film after the first exposure. I'll re-shoot both frames tomorrow, remembering to turn the dial. Funny observation, after making the first exposure I very briefly looked for the preview button.</p>

<p>I don't have any Fuji paper, but the Kodak paper that I have has the arrows about 25cm from the tip of the paper. </p>

<p>Yes, forgetting to wind is a big problem with many roll film cameras. I have one that has an interlock that requires at least a little turn of the knob before it allows the shutter release again.</p>

<p>I have a Chinese made TLR where the shutter mostly seems to go at the highest speed, 1/300, independent of the setting. After some use, it seems to do a little better, but I haven't gotten to try to open and clean it. I tried one roll with the shutter set at 1/300, and it seemed to do that just fine. </p>

<p>What I remember about my Yashica D is you can'T advance the film until you press the button in the middle of the film advance knob. You would think this would avoid you from making double exposures... except the shutter allows/requires you to cock and fire any old time you like. duuuhhh:)</p>

 

<p>I got the Gray version. Very good camera. Give it a nice workout and it should loosen up. If not, Mark Hama it. </p>

Well, I can confirm that it works. I can also confirm that shooting with a manual camera is not like riding a bike. I had two double exposures and one triple exposure. I wonder if anyone might have tips for the fundamentals of shooting manual? Do you advance the film immediately after exposure or immediately before exposure? I clearly need to adopt a strategy. On the plus side, the optics appear to be in excellent condition and the shutter and aperture appear to be doing what they are supposed to do. My exposures were fairly spot on for those I used my 5D as a meter and about 1/2 stop to the left for those I used a light meter app Pocket Light Meter. I'm excited to practice more, thanks for the advice and encouragement.

 

Double Exposure

Hi Jslear,

 

What you said about develop a strategy is right-on! Plan your work and work your plan. The only important thing is to be consistent. I always wind on right before I shoot. One argument is the film is taut and flatter. So I might compose then wind on, cock shutter and then pinch off the shot. Just be consistent.

HaHaaa.. What your language folks.. don't ever c**k your shutter Haaaaa