Please help with understanding how to use Kodak Supermatic Shutter

<p>I recently purchased a Kodak Vigilant Six-16 camera with the goal of modifying it for 120 film. I was testing out the shutter (a Kodak No. 2 Supermatic), when I think I did something bad. I could cock the shutter and trigger it, but then when I pulled another level on the side of the shutter (within the red circle in the picture) I am no longer able to trigger the shutter. When I press on the shutter nothing happens and I do not want to force it. I had cocked the shutter, changed the shutter speed, and then pulled this lever. I have been looking online for a diagram of this shutter to see what the lever was, and it seems like it could be a "Press Focus lever" (from the Vigilant Six-16 manual, although their diagram is not for the Supermatic). The lever is in the red circle in the picture. I cannot push the lever back up to its original position.</p>

<p>What is that lever and what can I do so that I can trigger the shutter again?</p>

<p>Thank you for your help!</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18313391-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1399" /></p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Hi Tom,</p>

<p>I think that would be the self timer lever. The mechanism may be all gummed up with old<br>

dried up lubricants and non-functional hence it won't release the shutter.</p>

<p>Rod</p>

<p>Try pushing it back, carefully, while pressing the shutter release. </p>

<p>I was yesterday trying out a Perkeo I, which is a 120 film camera.</p>

<p>The shutter release button on the camera couples though a mechanical linkage that presses a lever on the actual shutter on the front of the bellows. There is a double exposure prevention that won't let you press the shutter release unless you wind the film at least part way though a frame. Also, the camera side of the shutter release is a little slow (too much friction).</p>

<p>But also, there is a self timer which has way too much friction. Pushing it along while pressing the shutter release got it to go, but it would do it by itself. </p>

<p>Sounds like a self-timer to me too. The only real long-term answer is a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, adjustment) BUT it may be possible by holding down the normal shutter release button and applying GENTLE pressure to the self-timer to persuade this to return to its initial position. Applying petrol lighter fuel VERY SPARINGLY to the slot from which the self-timer lever protrudes may help free it but is not without risk.</p>

<p>A "press focus lever" makes sense only on cameras where you control the focus on a ground glass. Like some others, I rather think this is the selftimer lever. And this is a common issue ... since the self timer mechanism usually is not used very often it is prone to gumming. Release the shutter, hold the release button and push the lever gently. And DO NOT operate it anymore unless the shutter has been cleaned!</p>

<p>By the way, that Anastigmat Special lens is really good!</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for the responses. I think you are right in that it is the self timer. I tried holding down the shutter release button and pushing the self timer level forward. It moved a little (and I could hear the gears turning like what you heard when a shutter fires for a longer time period), but I could not get it to go all the way and could not get the shutter to trigger. What type of petrol lighter fuel would you recommend. Is that the stuff you put in Zippo lighters? Should I apply the fuel while the opening for the self timer level is at the top to allow gravity to pull it in, or should I do it while the opening is on the side so that the fuel will not get on the shutter blades? </p>

<p>I guess my only other option would be to take off the lens and open up the shutter to clean it. I have seen a few web pages on this, but was curious if anyone has experience with this.</p>

<p>Yea, I purchased this camera for the Anastigmat Special lens, and I am glad to hear that you agree that it is a good lens. I am looking forward to trying it with the larger negative of the Six-16 camera (of course adjusted for the more narrow 120 film).</p>

<p>I've got a Kodak Monitor with the same shutter, and confirm that this is definitely the self timer, shown in its "cocked" position in the picture. On mine you have to cock the shutter first, otherwise the self timer leader won't move. I concur with what the others said, a couple of drops of lighter fluid and a fiddle with the shutter levers coupled with gentle pressure on the self timer will usually get it going - until the next time.</p>

As I remember, you cock the shutter first, then the self timer. And when you are ready, press the shutter

release to start the self timer count down. It will make a ticking sound until it operates the shutter. Have you

looked on line for an operating manual?

Please note if using lighter fluid VERY VERY SPARINGLY. Nudging the gear and hearing the noise is a good sign. Too

much lighter fluid and the whole shutter will be come gummed up.. Don'T ask me how I know!!!

<p>The lighter fuel is indeed the kind you use with Zippo lighters. If the self-timer lever is moving a little bit when you press the shutter button and then apply pressure to the s/t lever, you might find that re-winding the s/t fully and repeating the "treatment" may encourage the lever to move a little further each time and ultimately fire the shutter. Once the s/t has fully unwound, you can use the shutter normally, leaving the s/t alone.</p>

<p>I really appreciate all of the feedback! I could not get the self timer to go all the way by pressing the shutter then trying to move the self timer lever. So I was able to run out and find the Zippo lighter fuel. That stuff comes out fast from the bottle but I was careful to only get a little bit in the slot for the self timer. Then when I pressed the shutter, using a little force I was able to get the self timer to advance and the shutter to trigger. I did verify that all of the other shutter times seem to be working (at least I can tell a different between the 1, 1/2 sec, and then the fast ones, so there does not appear to be any adverse effects. Also I did not see any thing on the shutter blades. From now on I will avoid the self timer.<br>

The only other issue I have now is that there is some light leaks at the corners of the bellows. I saw that black liquid electrical tape seems to work. Has anyone tried the liquid electrical tape and can attest to how it holds up and stays flexible enough for the bellows to be folded up and extended.<br>

Thank you all!</p>

<p>Even if you had gotten lighter fluid on the shutter blades it would have evaporated right off. If you had accidentally gotten it on the inside of the lenses they easily unscrew, and you can wipe them off. It's really hard to screw up using lighter fluid. Unless you had one of the very, very few cameras w/ plastic shutter blades, no worries.</p>

<p>My philosophy on self timers is that cameras don't have them. Just pretend they don't exist and you will never have any problems w/ them.</p>

<p>Better than liquid electrical tape for your bellows is this stuff, Permatex Ultra Black silicone</p>

<p>http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=76870&virtuemart_category_id=88801&gclid=CLit1OCuwNACFYQdgQodo-8HGA&ppcsclkid=4KwiHZWaISQl&ppcstrkid=1332290283&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqitnahs</p>

<p>It will match the color of a black bellows perfectly, and is very flexible. I've patched the bellows on folders w/ it and years later never a light leak. Great stuff. Just squeeze a little on an artist's brush, glob it onto the hole area and smooth it out w/ the brush, and let it dry. If it's a particularly big hole I will use two coats, but one coat almost always works. I use a little LED light shined inside the bellows in the dark to track down light leaks.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just a warning: Sometimes even the normal shutter mechanism (or blades) are stuck and the shutter does not fire at all. Some people think that the self timer can do magic and try to operate the shutter via the self timer - and,as mentioned, due to poor usage the self timer mechanism will be stuck too. So DO NOT try the self timer when the shutter does not fire via the shutter button! Things only can worse that way. </p>

<p>As far as I know the Vigilant was not sold with the No.2 Supermatic. I suspect this shutter came from another camera. I show it being first sold with the No.1 Supermatic, and after WW2 with the No. Kodamatic.</p>

<p>Here is the Depth of Field table for this camera with the two high-end shutters I know about.</p>

<p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

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