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Tips for Glacier National Park


jackie_mccully

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<p>Greetings! We are planning a trip to Glacier National Park and hope to be there during the last week of September. We've never been to that area so have several questions. I've researched previous posts as well. Where would be the best area to stay? We're also interested in heading up into Canada a bit, time allowing. Any suggestions on travel routes, spots not to be missed? Thanks, in advance,for any tips you might have for us.</p>
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<p>East Glacier has better access to Canada. You can hop across the border to Waterton, the equivalent of our Glacier, easily. We have a travel trailer and stayed at the East Glacier KOA. If you have pets make sure you have a vets certificate. Passports or that little card required for the two legged travelers. <br>

Now the dilemma. There are more and better accommodations on the West Glacier side. East Glacier is also starting to shut down for the Winter by the end of September. So, your timing points toward West Glacier.<br>

The ranger led hikes are pretty much done by then. They are pretty interesting. The best way to see the park is hiking. The roads only get you so far. <br>

Some people like the tour buses. They are old style buses from the 30s(???). Kind of fun but limited in where you stop and what you can see. Going to the Sun Road is a major highlight and some of the lakes are great photographic opportunities. Take your widest of wide angle lenses. And, at least, a moderate telephoto.<br>

Pack you cold weather gear. The seasons are starting to change. You could be in shorts and t-shirt weather or a snow storm. Maybe both on the same trip. <br>

I have never stayed at any of the lodges so I can't speak to them.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Thanks for your response. We're not bringing either the camper or our furbabies this trip. Not fan of tour busses either for the reason you mentioned. We like to stop & shoot on our schedule rather than that of the bus driver's. Good reminder about the weather. We've traveled to the Tetons & Yellowstone often but not this far North before. We do have "get passports" on our prep list already, too. Should be exciting.</p>
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<p>I recommend that you visit Glacier NP in the US and Waterton in Canada. Both are worth as many days as you can justify spending. Try and stay at Many Glacier Lodge for the area of Glacier NP near it. And then stay at Lake McDonald Lodge for the area near it. From Many Glacier the hikes are really good. In September you might see grizzly bears on the mountainside right near Many Glacier Lodge. We did when we were there in September. I still remember the hike to Iceberg lake from Many Glacier. At Waterton try and stay at the Prince of Wales Lodge. The views from it are really very good. <br>

If you are flying to the park consider flying to Calgary, renting a car, drive to Waterton, then to Many Glacier Lodge and then to Lake McDonald Lodge. Reverse this on the way back with your last night at Waterton. Then onto Calgary the next morning for your return flight. <br>

http://www.glacierparkinc.com/lodging/prince-of-wales-hotel/</p>

<p>http://www.glaciernationalparklodges.com/</p>

 

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<p>I haven't looked online myself, but you may be able to see when the lodges at Glacier plan to close for the season. Your schedule may find quite a few already closed. I was there for the week that straddled Oct 1 a few years ago, and all but the Lake McDonald lodge were closed. You should check on the lodging in Waterton, too.<br /><br />I don't know what the status is for the repaving of the Going to the Sun Road. It very well could be complete by now, but if it isn't, the work will be scheduled for the period after Labor Day weekend and the first snow cover. Since that road is the only way to cross the park inside the park, its closure causes a visitor to do a lot more driving.<br /><br />The GTTS Road isn't plowed either. So if there's snow at higher elevations, the road will be closed. That happened when I was there - between the repaving and snow, only the low elevation part of the road near Lake McDonald was open.<br /><br />Driving on the east side, watch out for cows in the road. State law requires a rancher to fence the land along roads to keep cattle out of the roads, but the roads around the east side of the park are on the Blackfeet Reservation, and the tribe doesn't have to comply with that law, and they don't. The roads are twisty-turny, and you'll find yourself coming around a bend to find between one and dozen cows on the pavement. Be careful.<br /><br />I agree that, at the end of September, you'll likely find more lodging available on the west side of the park. There's essentially none along the south side. I stayed at a small bed and breakfast on US89 close to the east side of the park. I don't recall the name, but there can't be very many. I can't recommend Browning as a base of operations.<br /><br />Everything you'll read about the scenery inside the park is true. You'll also find excellent fall foliage to shoot (roadside) along Flathead Creek on the south side of the park.</p>
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<p>The posted closing date for Many Glacier Lodge is 9/17, and the Lake McDonald lodge is 9/27 so you may be out of luck staying in the park unless you want to camp. We stayed a night at Many Glacier and a night at Lake McDonald campgrounds. Hurricane force winds on the East side convinced us to not stay longer at Many Glacier. Had to lean on the carbon tripod to keep it from blowing over. Fortunately, the wind was well blocked by the trees in the campground but the sound of the blasts rolling down from the peaks kept us awake. We did have a couple of good hikes - the first was the trail behind the Going to the Sun Visitor Center where we were rewarded with mountain goats on the trail and spectacular views. We also hiked to Avalanche Lake on the west side. Both of the trails are heavily used in the summer but the end of season traffic was light.</p>

<p>For our beginning of October trip in 2011, the only lodge, store, and restaurant open in St. Mary's seemed intent on getting their final cleaning done and closing for the season. We found restaurants open at East Glacier (but didn't look into lodging or shop there). Kalispell is open year round. Didn't find any vacancies at the chain hotels, and we ended up staying at the Kalispell Grand Hotel (recommended!) in the downtown restaurant and shopping district. So, if you want to stay in the park and hike at the end of season, plan on camping and bring all your supplies with you. Otherwise, plan on staying an hour or more away from the prime hiking areas.</p>

<p>Glacier is an amazing place but anticipate a lack of facilities, particularly on the East side, in late September and October.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I'll put in a good word for a hike in Waterton called the Bear's Hump. https://mywaterton.ca/do/the-bears-hump/wat16c8236d9d2249411<br>

Excellent views from up there.<br>

Also Cameron Lake in Waterton. Looks almost fjord-like at the far end. https://mywaterton.ca/do/cameron-lake/wate5cf4cf064234eb2a<br>

Unfortunately, the boat rentals there close up mid-September (kayaks, rowboats, etc). But I remember many decades ago, my dad paddling us kids nearly to the far end with an inflatable dinghy. There's also a foot-path around the west side of the lake that is negligible in elev. gain. And if you have a sports car, the road up there is a blast.</p>

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<p>Joseph Smith +1<br>

Paul SooHoo +1</p>

<p>My wife and I have been to Glacier twice and I can honestly say that it's exhilarating. Yellowstone and the Tetons are spectacular but Glacier is primal. If your schedule allows, consider moving your trip to the first of September so that you can stay in the Park hotels (hoping that they're not booked up by now). In addition to the trails and areas already mentioned, walk out onto the Highline Trail out of Logan Pass, my favorite.</p>

<p>If all else fails, plan a trip the last week of June or first of July. That's Spring in Glacier and along with all the other benefits you also get wild flowers.</p>

<p>Have a great trip... Mike </p>

 

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<p>Thanks so much for all of your responses. This helps a lot. Funny tip about the cows and we will definitely watch for them. Unfortunately, we can't move our trip because the purpose is to celebrate our anniversary & hubby's birthday so the dates are pretty firm. I am a bit anxious about hiking with the possibility/danger of grizzlies but also want to go to the beauty so will definitely looking into the bear spray. Thanks again -</p>
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<p>When we approached Avalanche Lake, returning hikers warned of a bear. Sure enough, a black bear sauntered around the lake shore in front of us. Quote of the day from a hiker fumbling with their bear spray canister: "does anyone know how to use these things?". Bear spray doesn't work unless you can deploy it in time. The canister safety lock comes off easily but I hike with the safety off in bear country. There are videos of how to best direct the spray on the web ... the consensus is aim low. </p><div>00eJd9-567340784.jpg.8fe28c302813a290e4b2d481b586fd91.jpg</div>
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Regarding bears, just make sure you make noise on the trails, like talking, etc. As you walk, be on the alert for them where they might be

looking for food, like clumps of bushes. If their food sources higher up in the mountains are not available, they will move lower until they

find food. Rangers will know the details as to their feeding patterns which can change from season to season and during a season.

 

If you like photography, early morning light is fantastic in Glacier in the fall. So is late afternoon. At Many Glacier lodge, the pictures from

the shoreline in front of the lodge can be spectacular. Make sure you do google searches for photos in different parts of the park.

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<p>Given the large number of visitors to Glacier and the relatively low number of bear encounters, the odds are in your favor, but it's wise to exercise precaution with noise, bear spray and, as we were told while there, there's never been a bear attack on 5 or more people. Get with a group if possible. The beauty of Glacier makes all the precautions worthwhile. Go for it... Mike</p>
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<p>The group size and noise factor relating to bear encounters is good advice. I've seen/heard everything from jingle bells to cow bells hanging from boots and belts. Makes quite a racket when a group is all equipped. However, having encountered bear scat as big as my size 15 boots on a lonely trail through tight areas, I keep recalling the story of identifying scat: http://www.boyscouttrail.com/content/joke/watch_for_bears-606.asp .</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

<p>Glacier is awesome! Great call. My favorite place on earth; I’ve been there (5) times and can’t wait to get back again.</p>

<p> As the others have said, late September can be hit or miss and a bit heavy on the miss side. But, my wife and I honeymooned there the second week of October back in 2000 with nothing restricting our travel. We were fortunate that the main road through the part (Going to the Sun Road) was still open.</p>

<p> Without wanting to repeat what the others have said, consider the following;<br>

1) If possible, travel the Going to the Sun Road from west to east and plan just about a full day for it. It’s a wonderful and slow build-up of excitement reaching a crescendo about 2/3rds of the way at the Logan Pass visitor’s center. It’s kind of like the 1812 Overture... The road is only 50 miles long, but wow… one breath-taking view after another. There are many pull-outs and it’s hard to resist stopping.<br>

2) Again, if open, park at the Logan Pass visitor’s center and check out the board walk behind the center. At the highest point, there are mountain goats and marmots awaiting you and your lens. On the other side of the road, it's the Highline Trail. Even a brief, one-mile foray will stay in your mind a lifetime. But note that you may find the cliff edge a bit <em>too</em> exhilarating. Both trails are relatively flat and yet offer so much.<br>

3) The Many Glacier area tends to have more grizzly bears. If wildlife and long lenses are you thing, spend some time there. If open, the trail to Iceberg Lake is wonderful although the flowers will surely be gone.<br>

4) Waterton can be windy, If there is indeed wind in Glacier, it may seem even more so up the Canadian side as it gets funneled up Waterton Lake, between the mountains. If you don’t have hotel reservations, I’d suggest being flexible w.r.t. when you head up.</p>

<p> Enjoy!</p>

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  • 2 weeks later...

First, let me just say in advance, Welcome to The Park! you are coming to Glacier National Park at the perfect time. This will ensure that the Going to the Sun Road is clear of snow and you are able to drive to and over Logan Pass. Make sure to stop at Lake McDonald and go to the boat access. Also, go to the Lake McDonald Lodge. It is full of history and a very cool place. Next on the way up Going to the Sun Road stop and do the Avalanche Lake hike. It's a short hike and definitely worth your time. Next, enjoy the whole drive up the Going to the Sun road and don't be afraid to pull over, just make sure it's in the designated pullout spots.

 

 

Once you get to the top of Logan Pass Park and do the Hidden Lake hike. This is a beautiful hike and a great spot to stretch your legs. If you are looking into more difficult hikes I would recommend the Reynolds Mountain hike, Dragon's Tail Ridge hike, or the Mt. Oberlin hike. Instructions and directions for these hikes and much more can be found at, The Outbound Collective. Always make sure that you have Bear Spray with you. Each of you should have a can of it. When I am out looking at Montana hunting ranches for sale, I always make sure to have a bottle on me. You never know when you might encounter a bear. I always say it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. The best thing is to be prepared and have a full understanding of how to use your Bear Spray effectively.

 

 

There are more places to stay on the West side of the park, but there are also good campgrounds on the East side. For the West Side, The Izaak Walton Inn is always a good choice. For the East Side, I've heard good things about the Granite Peak Chalet and have stayed at the Two Medicine Campground. For most of my visits, I have stayed in West Glacier so I'm not of much help on the East side.

 

 

When you do make it to the East Side of the Park, make sure you do the Oldman Lake Hike. This hike is beautiful and can either be done in one or two days. Also, make sure you visit Swiftcurrent Lake and St. Mary Lake. These are two of the most iconic lakes in Glacier National Park beside Lake McDonanld.

 

 

From East Glacier, it would be best to head into Canada. Unfortunately, I cannot be of much help as to what should be done on the Canada side. Hopefully, someone can elaborate on this aspect further on in the comments.

 

 

You could spend an entire summer in the park and never do the same thing twice so you'll have to be selective, but no matter what you choose it will be a good decision. Have a fantastic and safe trip!

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