Jump to content

Zenit TTL


Recommended Posts

<p>I picked up one of these last year for less than £10, and in perfect working condition; the meter is exactly the same as that on my Nikon F100.</p>

<p>I've enjoyed shooting with this over the last few months, and reviewed it on my blog.</p>

<p><a href="https://zorkiphoto.co.uk/2016/07/03/zenit-ttl-review/">Zenit TTL review</a></p>

<p>The TTL metering makes it faster to use than the Zenit E on which it's based, as long as the metering's working OK. I get the feeling mine might have been one of the old TO&E models that were stripped down and recalibrated once they came into the UK to make sure they were up to scratch.</p>

<p>The proper rewind crank is a godsend after the E too; that knurled knob is hell on my fingers.</p>

<p>I wish they could have kept the bright screen of the E, however. It's definitely harder to see stuff in poor light.<br>

<br />S</p>

<p> </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>The entire Zenit line represents a kind of alternative history -<br /><a href="/classic-cameras-forum/00cFEQ">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00cFEQ</a> - early Zenit-S<br /><a href="/classic-cameras-forum/00X4HR">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00X4HR</a> -outdated Soviet film in a Zenit ET</p>

<p>I find them fascinating - built, for the most part, like a Soviet tank - crude but functional.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks for sharing the review. Of all the screw-mount cameras I have, I keep coming back to the TTL and Zenit 12XP as users. I just like the simplicity of using them, and they take great pictures.<br>

<br />The viewfinders are a bit dim due to the front of the prism being semi-silvered. Fortunately, they made it easy to calibrate the meter--just remove the screw on the right front of the top cover, and the variable resistor is underneath. By the way, if you experience issues with internal reflections, Protostar telescope flocking works well, applied carefully as needed inside the mirror box.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Great read, thanks Stephen. The Zenits really could take great pics if you found a good one...agricultural sure, but tough as nails.<br>

Students here bought them in the thousands, nothing better if you are a starving student living on one minute noodles! The Zenit was cheap enough to allow a pizza on friday night! </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Dave,<br>

Can you give a bit more detail (for the non-mechanical) on adjusting the meter. My EM is grossly over-estimating. The needle is all the way to the right (maximum) at about EV 12 or 13. Stephen, thank you for a great post. T.</p>

Tony Evans
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Tony,<br>

Remove the screw above the right strap lug (looking at the front of the camera); this screw just covers a hole. Underneath it, you will see a variable resistor with a slot in it. Just turn this resistor one way or another (I calibrate my meter against a gray card in daylight). For accurate adjustment, use a ceramic or plastic screwdriver, or even a bamboo toothpick with the end trimmed flat. If you use a metal screwdriver, the meter needle will jump around. I wish other camera meters were so quick and easy to adjust! Hope this helps.<br>

Dave</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Dave,<br>

Took your advise and cut a toothpick "screw driver" which worked well. Meter now behaving as it should. Actually, I seldom use camera meters, ancient or modern, but prefer my Soligar Digital Spot or Combi II Incident. However it is still nice to know the EM is back in working condition. Thanks again. T.</p>

Tony Evans
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...