Kodak's purple tint

<p>I know it's asked a lot before, I tried the all methods(fresh fixer, extended wash etc.) and none of them worked.<br>

It does't cause any actual problem but just annoying to see.<br>

Does someone ever successfully removed the purple tint off the film base(beside using the Hypo clearing agent)?</p>

<p>The sensitizing dye stain is not photographic. It is susceptible to UV light. Expose it to sun light or a UV lamp and it will eventually fade.<br>

Lowell Huff<br>

Clayton Chemical<br>

310 538 9530</p>

Calvin are you using standard fixer (usually powdered) or rapid (from liquid). The rapid variety, which uses ammonium

thiosulfate is faster than standard fix (sodium thiosulfate) also rapid fixer (like Iford for example) does not have hardener.

Never had the purple problem after switching. For film you've already done Lowell's remedy should work fine.

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=654955">Mike Gammill</a> The way that your reply is worded, I can't tell if you're saying rapid or slow fixer will remove the purple cast. Also can't tell what you switched, from, and to.</p>

<p>Rapid fixer will help get rid of it faster.</p>

<p>Long washes also help remove it. But I long ago learned to just live with a very faint stain.</p>

<p>Hello again. A 3 min pre-soak (DI water only) prior to the addition of your developer (don't freak out when pouring this liquid out) and after your fixer (standard or rapid), a 5 min soak in water with a "pinch" of sodium sulfite, aka hypo clearing agent, and then your wash cycle, will leave you with zip coloring (of any shade) on the Kodak films. I have had blue even with 6 minutes of fresh rapid fixer. Bill</p>

<p>As stated above UV light will fade the tint. After they are dry, hang them in the window that faces the sun.</p>

<p>When I get that tint it is telling me I am not washing for long enough, a good 10 minutes of warm wash has always cleared it for me. I deliberately leave my darkroom when washing film, go make a coffee, nature call or whatever.<br>

Washing film is like watching grass grow and a lot of people do not wash for long enough or do not use sufficient water flow. Walk away from it and let it go for at least 10 minutes with as much flow as you can give it.<br>

If you're using a rapid fixer then hypo clearing agent does nothing at all, rapid fixer is non hypo. Of course if you are using Hypam or similar them hypo clearing agent does help shorten the wash time. Truth is nothing beats a good 15 minutes of high flow warm water. <br>

I do no think you could over wash film ( withing reason ) I once forgot about some film and it was washing for 3 days ( long story ) there was nothing at all wrong with the film even after that long and I had no reason to think there would ever be. </p>

@Patrick- it's the rapid (ammonium thiosulfate) that I find removes the stain more thoroughly.

<p>The OP wrote:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>It does't cause any actual problem but just annoying to see.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>There is an old engineering adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I have found that to be good advice. If you fool around enough trying to fix the nonexistent problem, you will eventually cause a real problem and damage your negatives.</p>

<p>As for being "annoying to see", I usually do not spend a lot of time looking at my negatives. I look a them when I print or scan them, then they are filed. After that I look at the prints, contact sheets, or scans.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Photographer's Formulary TF-4 works. It's designed to remove the color cast to Tri-X and other films. Pre-soak five minutes at least, dump, and after development, a 2 minute wash, dump, then fix for 8-10 minutes. It'll be gone.</p>

<p>Just wash the film for at least a half hour or more after developing.</p>

<p>Using Rodinal as your developer helps as well. The high pH seems to wash out the stain during the dev process.</p>

<p>I found that the purple stain was much reduced after I moved to two-bath fixing. In any event, it fades in time.</p>