My first camera - what should I get?

<h1 >Yashica 2000 FX-3 super </h1>

<h1 >Minolta SRT 303</h1>

<h1> Fed 2</h1>

<p>I'd get the Yashica. Seriously fun camera.</p>

<p><strong>Not enough data.</strong><br>

<strong>what do you want to do?<br /></strong><br>

<strong>what kind of pictures do you want to take? portraits? snapshots? travel?....<br /></strong><br>

<strong>do you like funky* or practical?</strong><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<strong>________</strong><br>

<strong>*</strong><em>FED 2 is great for funky and a nice camera besides in more general terms. If you can, get one in red. ;)<strong><br /></strong></em></p>

<p>Yashica/Contax lenses are kinda rare. You won't get as much fun of finding them at thrift shops and the like. I might choose a Minolta. Minolta, Canon, and Olympus manual focus mounts are all easier to acquire cheap lenses in with decent variety thanks to being abandoned for new mounts in the switch to autofocus.</p>

<p>Well, I did some more research and I could add the Minolta x700 and the x300 to the list. I'm looking for a reliable camera that I could learn on.</p>

<p>I have both of these cameras and I agree that it will be more fun finding lenses for the Minolta. The Minolta is considerably heavier than the Yashica. I just got a 303 back from John Titterington. It is beautifully overhauled and I hope to use it very soon. The Yashica is one of the later models which Cosina made for them. The main improvement of the FX-3 Super over the FX-3 is that the meter is activated by slight pressure on the shutter button rather than by pushing in a button from the back with your thumb. I have had three FX-3 cameras overhauled and reskinned. My FX-3 Super has not been overhauled yet. The Yashica FX-3/FX-7/FX-3 Super/FX-7 Super mostly (if not all) have deteriorating coverings. This is rarely the case with Minolta STR cameras. The SRT 303 shows you both the shutter speed and the aperture in the finder. The FX-3 Super shows neither of these. It only shows LEDs for correct exposure, overexposure and underexposure. The SRT 303 dates back to 1973. The FX-3 Super is, I think, from the 1983 time period. Either camera would benefit from an overhaul. The 303 was sold as the SRT Super in Japan and as the 102 in the U.S. so if you see a Super or 102 you would be getting the same camera. Only the later 303s are missing the mirror lock-up feature. If you can find one with mirror lock-up that would be preferable. <br>

The 303 takes 1.35 volt batteries. When you have the camera overhauled you can have the voltage changed to 1.5 and just use 625A (alkaline) batteries. The FX-3 Super takes the widely available MS-76/A76/357 batteries. The 303 has a split image focusing aid surrounded by a microprism collar. The FX-3 Super has a 45 degree split image focusing aid surrounded by a microprism collar. Some people like the 45 degree split image ad some don't. With my FX-3s I find myself tilting the camera to focus on vertical lines. My Yashica/Contax mount Yashica ML lens collection goes from 28 to 200 and includes the 55/2.8 macro and some zooms. I did not succeed in finding a 35/2.8 M lens so I got a 35/2.8 Zeiss AEJ. The Zeiss lenses for the FX-3 in the most often used focal lengths are a good match for the better Minolta manual focus lenses. If you like the Zeiss lenses and can afford them then you can have some fun with them. I enjoy both systems (Yashica and Minolta) but my Minolta collection is much larger. </p>

<p>The X700 and X300 were good choices in their day, but the electronics inside may not have aged well and servicing is expensive. Also, both are totally dependent on batteries. In other words, the SRT 303 (or equivalent) as well as the FX-3 Super 2000 use batteries only for metering and will work without them. With dead or missing batteries the X700 and X300 are both dead as a can of spam.<br>

The Olympus OM-1 as well as the Nikkormat FT3 are good manual choices. As is the Pentax MX. If you want some automation with manual options and don't mind paying a higher price consider the Nikon FE-2: shutter speeds up to 1/4000 second with aperture priority automation and manual exposure. If battery fails you can still manually fire the shutter at B and 1/250 second.</p>

<p>The FX-3 Super 2000 came after the FX-3 and the FX-3 Super. I have one of these. From what I can tell it is less well made than the FX-3 or FX-3 Super. It has more plastic. The covering on the FX-3 Super 2000 is made of a different material than that of the FX-3 or FX-3 Super and may not need to be replaced. Mike mentions some interesting cameras. The Minolta X-700 and X-300 (X-370 in the U.S.) are known for having problems with failing capacitors. The capacitors are inexpensive and the repair is easy to get. Much has been written about these cameras. They have bright viewfinders and are light to carry. They do not have the sturdiest winding mechanisms but can work well with a little care. The OM-1 cameras have meter mechanisms which, I believe, can't be repaired if they malfunction. The remedy is to transplant parts from another camera. The Nikkormat FT-3 should be the most reliable pf the mechanical Nikkormats because it doesn't need the complicated indexing feature of the earlier models. It also takes the same MS-76 battery as the earlier FT-2 and not the 1.35 volt battery of the FT and FTN. An MX will normally need some service and its mechanical function can be expected to remain reliable longer than the electronics of its meter. The FE-2 is a beautiful camera with many features including interchangeable focusing screens. It is better made and more mechanically sturdy than the other cameras mentioned. It isn't up to the standard of a Canon F-1 or Nikon F2 but it is still quite strong. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>"The Olympus OM-1 as well as the Nikkormat FT3 are good manual choices. As is the Pentax MX. If you want some automation with manual options and don't mind paying a higher price consider the Nikon FE-2: shutter speeds up to 1/4000 second with aperture priority automation and manual exposure. If battery fails you can still manually fire the shutter at B and 1/250 second."<em><strong> Mike G.</strong></em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Maybe add the OM-1n, OM-2n and even the Nikkormat FT2.<br /> I couldn't agree more, <strong><em>Mike</em></strong> lists all of my favorite film SLR bargains.<br /> As an enhancement, I own all of these listed, and with the exception of the Minolta Srt, I don't own any of the OP's other considerations...<br>

(As cheap as most all of these are in the resale market, why buy the <strong>lower quality</strong> units?)</p>

<p>How did you reach the list you ask us about? None of those cameras strike me as typical first cameras. Are there any particular reasons why you haven't looked for the more usual suspects?<br>

Can you indicate your budget, more or less? For the Nikons, I'd also suggest/consider the FM or FM2, but they do tend to have a slightly higher asking price compared to FE/FE2.</p>

<p>I finally bought a Minolta SRT 101+ 4 lenses + a flash for around 63$. They are all in good condition, I think I made a good choice.</p>

<p>A bit late to the party, obviously, but I think I'd have gone for a Minolta too. The lenses, both superb Minolta and decent third party and crummy third party, are so easy to find. The SRT is nicely made, and all the manual lenses are compatible with later Minoltas, and vice versa, except that MC lenses won't actuate programmed exposure or shutter priority mode in cameras that have it. Minolta 50 mm. normal lenses, in my experience, are really nice.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have two mechanical Nikon camera bodies. They are my dad's 41 year old Nikkormat FT2 that I recently ran a roll of film through. The other is a Nikon FM2n that was my primary 35mm film camera until last January when I added a Nikon F6. The F6 has a very nice built in spot meter that allows me to use the zone system for black and white film. The F6 is probably the last of the Nikon F series film cameras. A wide variety of lenses are available and some are usable on all three bodies.</p>

<p>I'm very late to this and see a choice has been made but if you find yourself asking this question again look at the Nikkormat FT2 or FT3 or better still an Nikon F2 with any of the Photomic heads on it. F2S, SB, A or AS are all superb cameras. A bit big and heavy but they run and run, don't have to have batteries to function except for metering and you can find MD series motor drives for them easily. My favorite camera in my newspaper days, I've run miles of film through them. I think you are probably enjoying that SRT as well. Another good mechanical camera.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

<p>If you are going for heavy cameras, there is also the EL2, which I consider the predecessor to the FE. Along with the FT3, it uses AI lenses (and coupling). I got mine pretty reasonably priced, otherwise they might be a little expensive.</p>

<p>As far as I know, these cameras were built traditional Nikon tough, tougher than the FM and FE family. </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I would recommend a Nikkormat FT3. It was the last of the Nikkormat line, uses AI/AIs & AF Nikkors and can be used with the prong Nikkors. This gives you a huge amount of lenses to choose from. It's built like a tank and uses a battery that you can still purchase at Walmart. In the future if you should decide to use a DSLR your lenses will still work. Flash synch is 1/125 as well. If you care to spend a few dollars more, you'd never regret a Nikon F3. BTW the 50mm f2 AI is an excellent lens and 1/3 the price of the f1.4.<br>

Rick </p>

<p>Pentax K-1000</p>