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Any favorite photography tips you've recently found?


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<p>Tim: If you'd like I can mail you three sheets that I have in my old supply so you can try. Email your address to me. I made the offer to Laura too. I've printed with consumer grade printer Canon ink and hadn't had a problem. I use to print out the 24k NatGeo maps in color when I went Geocaching. They were great. Don't use laser printers because the heat will damage the paper maybe the machine. </p>

<p>Here's Dupont's blurb on ink for the paper. http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/packaging-materials-solutions/industrial-packaging/articles/printing-with-tyvek.html</p>

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<p>Thanks for the offer, Alan. It's not necessary to send me your map samples printed with a Canon inkjet though I appreciate the offer. I don't have that brand of printer. Also I doubt I'll be going anywhere that remote where I'll need a map.</p>

<p>The DuPont info link really helped especially this quote from that page on using inkjet ink...</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>"Ink jet printing is used primarily for lot and batch marking in automatic form-fill-seal processes in the sterile packaging industry. Tests conducted by DuPont have shown that solvent-based ink systems (ketone/ alcohol) work well with Tyvek<sup>®</sup> in the ink jet process. On the other hand, most of the water-based inks that we tested would feather and blur to some extent. In addition, they are slower to dry."</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p><em> </em>I'll have to find out if Epson DuraBrite ink is solvent or water based. I know it's pigment based.<em><br /></em></p>

<p>So the ink on your Canon map prints on Tyvek don't scrape off or flake off from the amount of handling when hiking in rough terrain?</p>

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<p>Heck, I can't keep my nose out of this, so here's a couple of comments. (Moderators, honest, this is related to photography. You've got to be able to navigate if you want to get to where the pictures are.)</p>

<p>First thing, maps. I've found a great solution is just to download the 1:50000 topo maps from the USGS site or one of the many websites which point to them. I open the file in Photoshop, downsize it to an 11" x 17" print size, and send it off to a Staples print center for printing on heavy paper, 32lb or something. This gives you an excellent full-color topo map for fifty cents or so.</p>

<p>For a multi-day trip, you'll need multiple map sheets, of course. Fold them up and seal them in a Ziploc freezer bag, and Bob's your uncle. If they get trashed or wear out on the trip, they're pretty much disposable at fifty cents per. Just reprint them if you need to.</p>

<p>Second thing, GPS <em>versus</em> map and compass. I agree everyone should know how to plot a course with map and compass, if only because it makes you think about navigation in a fundamental way. That's a motherhood/pie issue. If I'm going way off trail I'll always bring my 40 year old Silva Ranger for insurance against battery failure, or <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuclear_electromagnetic_pulse">World War III</a> breaking out, but also because it's a cool toy to play with when I'm waiting for the kettle to boil.</p>

<p>The limitation of a compass is it tells you direction but not location. If you want map location, you always need to triangulate with two other pieces of data-- like (i) that peak is at a bearing of 270 degrees, and (ii) I am standing on the bank of this creek. In places where the terrain is nondescript or ambiguous, or in a storm, or fog, or at night, it can be impossible to get those two other pieces of data.</p>

<p>GPS, on the other hand, tells you where you are on Mother Earth, within a meter or two, and it's easy to operate. I love my cool old Silva Ranger, but if you're in remote country where getting lost can be really bad news, you need to make it easy on yourself. You're not out there to rough it. You're out there to smooth it.</p>

<p>OK, re the OP, here's the obligate photo tip: for my last trip, I bought <a href="http://store.lowepro.com/topload-chest-harness">one of these inexpensive front harnesses from Lowe</a>, based on someone's recommendation on photo.net. It's similar to the old <a href="https://books.google.ca/books?id=kgAAAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA88&lpg=PA88&dq=kuban+hitch&source=bl&ots=tAEceS3CXs&sig=WL41hH0MYlTDOx3BSgNPhAifdlo&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwijpfqnwLjOAhUK6mMKHS3XCPk4ChDoAQgkMAI#v=onepage&q=kuban%20hitch&f=false">Kuban Hitch</a> from the 1980s, if anyone can remember that contraption, but it's IMHO much better. I put the camera harness on first, and my <a href="http://www.ula-equipment.com/product_p/catalyst.htm"> ULA Catalyst</a> on over it. Works like a bomb, excellent combination for lightweight backpacking. Highly recommended.</p>

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Tim, if I recall correctly I never had problems with the

Tyvek. But I haven't used it in a long time. The photo

printer ink as I recalled stayed pretty well. The other

advantages you can write on the paper and the ink

stays even if the paper gets wet. So it's a good thing to

have with you on a camping or hiking or photo trips into

the woods.

 

100k maps are good for overview, but 24k topo maps

provide better detail. I agree with Dave that GPSs are

better than compasses as they show you location. But

the GPS won't show you direction unless they have an

on-board Compass or until you begin to move. Then it

will show you the direction. I'd get a GPS that also had

a compass built in.

 

I used to use National Geographics 24k topo mapping

program. I don't know if they have it anymore. I would

set up a trip on the home computer marking all my

waypoints of where I was going to go and start from

and then download those waypoints ino my GPS that

also had topo maps. Then the gps would navigate me from point to point. Very handy. Also, you can mark

a new waypoint where you got that great photo. When

you get home, you download the breadcrumb trail so

that you can see on your computer the entire route that

you hiked either on a topo map ,street map or a satellite

map. It makes some interesting things to do on

those rainy days when you can't get out.

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<p>Not really recent (as I've been using it for three years), but I would say Auto ISO.</p>

<p>In conjunction with aperture priority and setting a minimum shutter speed, it's one less thing to worry about in situations where the light varies greatly.</p>

www.citysnaps.net
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Brad, are you talking actual photography and not boots, maps and GPS? Since we are veering off topic I will mention one of my favorite photography tips. If I see an interesting bug or something, I take the 50mm lens off my camera, turn it around and hold the filter end against the camera to get good macro shots. Sort of a poor man's macro. I did at one time by a reversing ring to mount the lens on the camera backwards.
James G. Dainis
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<p>I'm hoping you don't move it, Jeff. I can see how you might get that impression, but I suspect that the vast majority of photographers who wear boots, use maps, use tripods, or shoot macro don't consider themselves to be primarily nature photographers--consider travel photography, landscape photography, sports photography, and sometimes even product photography (...it involved kayaking gear, and was quite a lot of fun). And I was quite interested in the gps idea since the only places that I regularly get lost are cities, since I'm rarely in 'em--gps is suddenly making a lot of sense, though I use a compass elsewhere. </p>

<p>But back to the topic. Good point on auto ISO, Brad--I just started taking advantage of the option a few days ago. I usually shoot aperture priority, but there are times when I need a fast shot with a particular DOF and shutter speed, usually with a moving subject. I programmed a new shooting mode based on Manual that starts with the aperture and speed I want for the general shooting conditions and gives me a middle-of-the-road ISO on auto-ISO; that gives auto-ISO leeway to adjust. I've also got it set up for servo autofocus and burst mode. Then it's just a matter of turning the dial, spot-metering/focusing on the subject, and good to go. Yesterday I went from shooting an exposure-bracketed closeup in aperture priority to catching a low-flying vulture in about 5 seconds. I'm also using it to shoot dog agility meets (=not nature!).</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>who wear boots, use maps, use tripods, or shoot macro don't consider themselves to be primarily nature photographers--consider travel photography, landscape photography, sports photography, and sometimes even product photography</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

I've done travel photography, sports photography, and product photography and have never needed boots, maps, macro and only rarely tripods. <br>

<br>

For me, essential tips would be bring earplugs, lanyards for media passes, comfortable trainers (not boots!), Brad's auto ISO suggestion, a good hand strap, a well-charged phone, and money for drinks. I teach/mentor plenty of people and have never recommended anything above, except auto ISO. </p>

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<p>Now that this thread is sort of winding down, I will say something that bugs me about the whole idea of "tips." This is not aimed at Leslie (I am always grateful that *anybody* gives us a new topic to chew on in the forum), but is more my own feeling about how <em>I</em> "do" photography.</p>

<p>For me, the entire process of photography is integral to the end result. Getting "tips" kind of kills the game, for me. It's like memorizing moves for chess, or having some of the pieces already stuck together in a jigsaw puzzle, or looking at the answers to the crossword puzzle without doing it myself. It diverts me from what or how or why I would have done things in my own way.</p>

<p>Even a tip about something as seemingly mechanical as getting a tripod to work better or auto-ISO are things that, in wrestling with them on my own will prompt me or slow me down or redirect me in ways that are particularly my own. <em>Make</em> me think.</p>

<p>For me, photography is not like driving a car where I just use it to get from A to B and tips on getting it to run better are welcome because the only thing that matters is getting to A. For me, how I go about solving and resolving throughout every bit of the process, from inkling to image, is of-a-piece; it needs to be worked through by me. Yes, I realize that many, even most people, don't work this way. I do. Which is why MuckBoots, and the discussion of maps, shoes, and boots, are the limit of my tip-ability.</p>

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<p>Jeff, you don't seem to shoot in the woods. If you did, you'd want boots, both hikers and muckers. ;-)</p>

<p>I love your photography and if your ever in Denver, I'd love to introduce you to standing in mud between cattails 7-ft. tall, shooting great blue heron on the fly as they build their nests, or hiking 5-miles over downed trees and waist high grass, to try to find white-tail deer bucks. Your 'comfortable trainers" wouldn't be so comfortable after they fill with muddy water, or while climbing on rocks. As long as you don't have extra wide feet, I know where we can get you some decent muckers for around 30-bucks.</p>

<p>BTW, I do know people that shoot wildlife in my area, in loafers and seldom leaving their cars. They never even see opportunities such as below:</p>

<p><a title="Buck in the grass..." href=" Buck in the grass... data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5240/5892246971_b77fa48416_z.jpg" alt="Buck in the grass..." width="640" height="427" /></a></p>

<p>The offer is serious. I think you've already got the rig needed, except for the boots.</p>

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<p>That’s an insightful description of your learning style, Julie—a good reminder that not everyone chooses to pursue knowledge using the same strategy. I’m impressed by how a website like this can accommodate and provide something of value across such a wide range of skill levels, photographic interests, and learning styles.</p>

<p>And James - I love the concept! A botanist friend of mine recently showed me how to use binoculars as an impromptu hand lens, but it never occurred to me to apply the idea to camera lenses without a reversing ring.</p>

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<p>I call Julie's way of photography "The Method" similar to acting. It's pretty much reacting to the situation rather than pre-planning according to a set of rules.</p>

<p>Which now I'm beginning to think that's pretty much how I've entered into photography where my Walmart bag was a complete reaction to the frustration of carrying those bulky camera bags with all the zippers and pockets on top of those snap-on sheaths that cover the entire camera and lens. </p>

<p>I want to be at the ready with my camera but still have some protection that doesn't get in the way and take forever removing. I know of no one else nor have I seen out where I shoot along side wedding photographers out in my local park that uses Walmart grocery bags to carry their camera/lens combo. </p>

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Julie. I respect your approach to learning photography and it must deliver a lot of satisfaction. I am old, 84, but fit

and still very active with photography. My profession was aviation for over 40 years. My retired profession was a

photo business that I ran for several years. I still shoot a lot of organized sports. The most humbling thing about

getting this old is the realization that it is impossible for me to ever learn enough about either subject and it was

important for my staying alive in aviation to be eclectic. I realized from this thread today that if I preset my camera

with auto ISO etc.. I would not have to fumble with it when I pulled it out of the bag while I was on my walks around

the harbor. I should have thought of this as it is so simple but I didn't. I also learned that gaining knowledge from

others by listening was the most important thing I could do as an aviation executive. The same was true when I was

propelled into wedding photography by an odd circumstance. I needed help when I started. This is one of the best

threads I have seen on PN in quite awhile. I come here to learn from others.

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