Konica Auto S2 help request

<p>I hope someone here can help with a problem I have with my Konica Auto S2, which looks in great condition. The lens is clear and the shutter sounds accurate at all speeds. The meter is dead, which is a little disappointing, but not a deal breaker.<br /> However, the film take-up spool won't rotate as the film advance lever is moved. I've used a few drops of Ronsonol at the top and bottom of the spool and rotated it back and forth in an attempt to free it, but to no avail. The take-up spool can be rotated manually, and when it does, the sprockets adjacent to it also rotate, so the problem seems to be a loss of the connection between the film advance lever and the spool. <br /> Has anyone encountered this issue with the Auto S2, and do you have any suggestions on what I could do to fix this? Or is it simply not worth the trouble?<br /> Many thanks,<br /> Raj</p>

<p>On the T reflexes, and on the illustration I've seen of an S2, the rotating part of the takeup spool is inside a non-rotating plastic drum, and goes in the direction opposite that of the sprocket. Is that the case here? The plastic drum is free to rotate in either direction, and when film is wound on, both it and the inner takeup will counter-rotate relative to the sprocket. But that outer drum is not geared to anything.</p>

<p>Again, looking at the T4, when the rewind button is pressed, the sprocket is free to rotate, but the inner axle of the takeup will still rotate and cock as normal. If the camera is not set to rewinde, the sprocket should always rotate, and it is the sprocket that controls the exact framing of the film. The takeup always has a slip clutch in it to compensate for its change in diameter as it winds. If the sprocket is not turning when you cock, either the rewind button is not disengaging correctly, or a gear is not engaging somewhere inside. </p>

<p>If the sprocket is turning, check next to see if the inner portion of the takeup is rotating. If it is not, then you have a problem. If it is, make sure you feed the film into the slot in that axle, and see if it then pulls. </p>

<p>If nothing is rotating when you operate the takeup lever, there might be a problem in the way the lever is assembled to the shaft. As I recall from a long-ago disassembly of one of my T3's, the lever operates the shaft through a one-way clutch, which has to be assembled right, and requires a washer to be seated on the flatted end of the shaft. If you open this up (carefully recording the order in which everything comes out) perhaps you can figure out a problem. I can't entirely remember how it all went together, but I think that the top cap is reverse threaded, and once that comes off, the rest is fairly obvious. It's a somewhat tricky stack of parts, though, so you're on your own for getting it all together again right. </p>

<p>http://www.cameramanuals.org/konica/konica_auto_s2.pdf<br>

Is the rewind button on the bottom of the camera stuck in the rewind position?<br>

Is it fully extending once the back is closed?<br>

Check the back edge for the closed lever being bent. It appears to be to the right of the takeup spool in the picture of the camera back opened on page 10of the manual.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I've used a few drops of Ronsonol at the top and bottom of the spool</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A poor product to use on cameras. It may do more damage than good on that plastic marvel.</p>

<p>Thank you very much, Matthew and Charles.<br>

This version has a takeup spool with multiple slits in it (there were apparently 2 types in the Auto S2, based on the 2 different manuals I was able to find). When I wind the advance lever, I can see a metal rod rotating in the center of the spool, but the spool itself does not move, and neither do the sprockets. I tried feeding the film into different slits in the spool to see if perhaps it would catch on one of them, but with no luck.<br>

The rewind button is fully extended, and the closed lever Charles mentioned appears to be intact.<br>

I suspect that the connection between the lever and the shaft is intact, as I can see the metal rod rotating; the problem seems to be that the connection between the rod and the slitted takeup spool that encircles it is broken. </p>

 

<p>If this is like the T's, there is no connection between the rod and the outer takeup spool. That outer takeup spool rotates only after film has caught in the inner rod.<br>

If when you wind the winder, the sprockets do not move, I think your problem may be a stuck or broken rewind. </p>

<p>When it's set for rewind, it's possible to move the sprocket backwards by hand, as the internal gearing that winds the sprocket is disengaged. When it's set for wind, it should be impossible to turn the sprocket backwards, and the sprocket should move when the camera is cocked. </p>

<p>The Konica differs from some other cameras in that you can still fully cock and fire the shutter when it's set for rewind. </p>

<p>The rewind is good. The sprockets don't move when the advance lever is wound, but the sprockets cannot be moved backwards when the rewind button is disegaged (they can when the rewind button is depressed). When the sprockets are moved forward, the inner part of the takeup spool (between the central rod and the outer spool) also rotates, but this does not happen when the film is advanced. So I think the problem resides in the connection between the film advance lever and the spool.</p>

 

<p>It sounds more as if the problem is between the film advance lever and the sprocket, which may unfortunately be a gear. Either that, or the mechanism that disengages the sprocket for rewind is malfunctioning and not re-engaging the sprocket with the winder.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your help - I'll try and play with it some more, but if it proves too much, I'll pass it on to someone who is more mechanically competent to restore it. Thanks again!</p>

<p>On my sample, the outer part of the take up spool does not rotate either, but the sprocket wheels rotate when advancing. Concerning the dead meter, this is often a problem of the battery test switch. The contacts corrode easily and so the battery will have no contact to the meter circuit. Sometimes cleaning the contacts (underneath the bottom plate) helps, but usually you have to replace one of the contacts, I used a piece of galvanised sheet metal.</p>

<p>I just found a C35 at a yard sale today for a buck, and the wind mechanism is exactly the same as on the T's. The outer part of the take up spool does not rotate, but the sprocket rotates when advancing. When the rewind button is pushed, the sprocket freewheels, but the shutter still cocks and the inner part of the takeup advances. </p>

<p>On a previous C35 I had, one of the wires to the battery chamber corroded off, and that caused the meter to fail. I was able to solder it back together and it worked again, but to do this one had to take the bottom off the camera. On the CD35 this is pretty vital because there is no manual control of the shutter speed. On one that works manually, it may not be so urgent.</p>

<p>Winfried and Matthew - thank you for your insights.<br>

I think that rather than tinker with it and risk causing irreparable damage, I'll pass it on to a more mechanically gifted photography buddy, so that he/she can get this camera back in shape and enjoy its wonders!</p>

<p>Winfried and Matthew - thank you for your insights.<br>

I think that rather than tinker with it and risk causing irreparable damage, I'll pass it on to a more mechanically gifted photography buddy, so that he/she can get this camera back in shape and enjoy its wonders!</p>

<p>I think your Konica is a goner without some replacement parts for the film wind: but non-functional meters aren't uncommon. Of course, one nice thing about the S2 is that whilst it features shutter priority auto exposure, it is also a very usable fully manual camera. So a dead meter is not the end of the world. Still, there's a fair chance the meter is non-functional because the thin wires in the meter circuit have failed. The location of the cell near the filter ring is very convenient for black and white when using filters, but it also means that, for instance, whenever untrained repairers try to clean the shutter, there's a fair chance they'll break the wiring. Battery wiring can be an issue, too, as with many other period cameras if corrosion is present, and this should also be inspected. But it's possible, in some cases, to make an S2 meter function again with little more than continuity checks and wiring repairs.</p>

<p>Thank you, Brett!</p>

<p>Rajmohan, You need to remove the top plate off and the C clip that holds the counter dial on to gain access of the gearing. If the gear(s) look stripped a donor camera will be needed if your meter and shutter are good. It is one of the easiest cameras to work on for it is very large. If the meter is not operating I would use 24 to 28 awg braided wire. The old negative wiring will most likely be junk from past use of mercury filled batteries. Also remove the battery holder and the remove the two bottom screws which holds the battery holder together. The contact closest to the red battery check button will be corroded most likely. Vinegar or Ronsonol will clean the powdery substance off. After cleaning you must try and see if solder will adhere to the surface. Sometimes the mercury residue will ruin the proprieties in the metal and solder will not flow on and set. I have used wires from old computer keyboards that plugged in PC's before which is the correct gauge wire.<br>

If photos are needed please ask</p><div></div>

<p><strong>Frank</strong> - thank you for your detailed comment. As the previous suggestions seemed beyond my limited mechanical abilities, I passed the camera on to a camera enthusiast with greater aptitude for these repairs. I'll pass on your (and the others') suggestions to him.<br>

I greatly appreciate the advice from everyone!</p>

<p>Good luck with your Konica</p>

<p><strong>Frank</strong> - thank you for your detailed comment. As the previous suggestions seemed beyond my limited mechanical abilities, I passed the camera on to a camera enthusiast with greater aptitude for these repairs. I'll pass on your (and the others') suggestions to him.<br>

I greatly appreciate the advice from everyone!</p>

I started purchasing this model for $5 to $10 each until I had about 6 of them

Then I started stripping all of them apart. The one with the worst shutter I completely torn down

It was a task in a way but I learned quite fast how to repair these. It takes about 30 minutes to get these completely apart now