Topcon RE Super mirror hangs occasionally

Hi,

Occasionally the mirror stays up after the shutter release, especially at 1/15 and 1/30sec. It drops

down again when advancing to the next frame.

I know that there is a similar problem with the Pentax Spotmatic, and one can find a cure for this on

the internet : a tiny drop of oil on a moving arm under the bottom plate. I was able to resolve the

problem in my own SP500 this way.

I was thinking that perhaps the problem is the same in the RE Super? Can someone pls help?

Thanks in advance and best regards , Benny.

<p>I have had a problem like this on many cameras. Sometimes I can even see what is getting hung but getting to the root problem scares. It always seems that the laws of quantum mechanics come into play and little screws and springs are just transported somewhere else. I have posted a question like this a few times and the same member just kept giving me the same answer. Try lubrication. If this works it will be short lived and the right thing is a CLA. He was always right. One time I had permanent results by lubricating and exercising the camera for about 1/2 hour while holding it upside down and sideways. That part seemed to be critical.</p>

<p>Have you examined the foam bumper at the front of the screen? When these deteriorate they often become sticky, sometimes badly enough cause the mirror to hang up.</p>

<p>The service manual for the later (71D) model of the RE Super/Super D is in available free online. But the mirror mechanism is a bit different due to the mirror lock up. But with the manual and watching it work at other speeds, you should see what triggers the mirror return. Probably a matter of a slight adjustment.<br>

The service manual has a lot of well-written adjustment procedures.</p>

<p>No matter how small you think your application of "oil" is, make it even less. "Lubing" a camera is the most common cause of destruction of old cameras.<br>

Seals and foam bumpers are often involved in this sort of problem, and (let's face it) none of us are getting any younger. </p>

<p>CLA is the best thing if you plan on retaining the Topcon. Everything will be checked for a small investment.<br>

I would not attempt an oiling yourself. Some manufacturers only use drylube, not a liquid lubricant. They speed of the mirror is in microseconds and any liquid may spray everythere.<br>

I used a Nikon F4 since new which I still consider to be one of the best film cameras ever made, and the local Nikon specialist made the case agains liguid lube. </p>

<p>CLA is the best thing if you plan on retaining the Topcon. Everything will be checked for a small investment.<br>

I would not attempt an oiling yourself. Some manufacturers only use drylube, not a liquid lubricant. They speed of the mirror is in microseconds and any liquid may spray everythere.<br>

I used a Nikon F4 since new which I still consider to be one of the best film cameras ever made, and the local Nikon specialist made the case agains liguid lube. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>"Some manufacturers only use drylube" <em><strong>Stephen B.</strong></em></p>

</blockquote>

<p><strong>"Only"</strong>? Sorry but what manufacture and in which camera?<br /> <br /> As far as the Topcon, that's a symptom of lubricant failure. <br /> But my experience also shows that the shutter curtain springs have fatigued sufficiently to not achieve their correct curtain travel times. The second curtain in particular triggers the mirror "drop" at the end of it's travel. A shutter tester with 3 sensors will have the capability to read the curtain <strong>travel</strong> speeds (Not just shutter speeds).</p>

Wow, I had not expected so much replies in such a short time . Thanks everyone! I should perhaps

have added that it is the model without MLU.There is no mirror bumper left, just bare metal with a

hint of dried glue.I was thinking of using Fader Lube from those small bottles with metal tip like an

injection needle : micro drop on a plate or arm that has too much friction against another metal

part, like what happened in the Spotmatic. I don't plan to use this body regularly, so I doubt that I

will have it CLA'dd, besides I would then need to ship it to the US, with all the customs costs

involved etc. Mind you, the camera would definitely deserve it because it's in Mint condition .should

I take off the bottom plate and see if I can spot the issue? I am not mechanically skilled but I can do

a few things if it doesn't require disassembly... thanks! :-)

Meant to say : too much friction due to dried lubricant or lack of use.

<p>I took the bottom plate off this weekend to check if anything would benefit from a gentle nudge. Of course nothing inside resembles the Spotmatic and I didn't touch anything. So I went back to give the shutter some more exercise, but so far no improvement. Especially the speeds from 1/60s downwards cause the mirror to stay up after exposure. Now, if the exposures are correct, it isn't such a big deal - a test film will have to show that. After all, my Mamiya RB67 also lowers its mirror after rearming only..... ;-)</p>