benjamin_kim2 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 <p>Im going to shoot small beetles in the studio but my Canon 100mm need to be very close to object which is an issue. Because of the distance between a beetle and camera lens, the lighting is very limited and can't even control lighting equipments well. So Im thinking to get a macro accessory to attach it to Canon macro lens. I know that there are several options but for me, I just want to increase the distance between a beetle and camera so that I can control lighting equipments. Any suggestion?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 <p>I've never had problems with Nikon's 105 and insect macros, but if you need your lens to be further from the subjects, you need a longer focal length lens. Adding extensions to your present lens won't do the trick for you.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>Don't use a lens hood. It's probably not necessary. Use one or two flash units on a bracket to reach around the lens. A ring flash works well too. Some use LEDs rather than a flash tube, which are effective and inexpensive.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Javkin Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>You may be thinking of a teleconverter, which increases the focal length, and will let you work from a shorter distance. Combining a lens + teleconverter often can't produce image quality as good as a longer lens alone.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Currie Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>I don't know about the Canon lenses, but the Nikon 105/2.8 macro, while a very fine lens, has a very pronounced case of "focus breathing" at the macro end. By this, I mean that as one goes from 1:2 to 1:1, the focal length of the lens changes from 105 to 60, and as a result it must come closer. A lens with significant focus breathing can benefit from extension.</p> <p>An extension tube on such a rig will actually improve the distance, because the same magnification can be gotten at a longer focus setting, and as a result it also retains a longer focal length. I just tried this with the Nikon lens and a 36 mm. extension tube, and although the difference was not radical, it was there. There may be an ideal tube length at which the compromise between decreased macro distance caused by the tube and decreased distance caused by focus breathing is optimized, which probably is unique to the lens. I didn't fuss and fine tune this, but did find that some extension on that particular lens does help a little. </p> <p>I've done other macro work with longer non-macro lenses on tubes and it can work pretty well, allowing enough working distance for bugs in the wild, though the narrow focal range can be a pain in the neck. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>Adding a teleconverter to a macro lens will let you work further from your subject. I did a lot of close up & macro work this last spring and summer using a Nikkor TC 201 2x on a 105 / 2.8 D. I was generally satisfied with the results I obtained. I don't use Canon, but suspect a converter might not cost a lot. I saw some inexpensive ring lights for sale on line ($70 range) and may try one of those outdoors next bug season . For studio, either fixed lighting or use of a strobe with appropriate reflectors to distribute the light might do the trick nicely for beetles.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Currie Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>I should add that a long lens can work very well on extensions. For example, though the ancient 200/F4Q Nikon lens focuses only to 10 feet normally, with 68 mm of extension rings, that 10 foot setting comes relatively close to 1:1, at a distance of about 20 inches from the end of the lens (32 from the focal plane). It's clumsy to handle, but you can't complain about the distance!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>Theoretically, a 100 mm lens would have a 200 mm (8") distance from subject to focal plane at 1:1, but it doesn't work that way. In order to get 1:1 without a ridiculously long extension, most macro lenses shorten the focal length as they are racked out.</p> <p>A tele-extender doesn't change the minimum focusing distance, but you get a 1.4x or 2.0x magnification at any range. I've used them with with normal lenses, even zoom lenses, for closeups, but never a macro lens. It should work, but at a possibly significant loss of image quality. Tele-extenders only work if there is enough clearance between the last element and the lens mount. Typically that only exists in a few lenses, such as a 70-200 mm zoom.</p> <p>I've also used extension tubes with non-macro lenses to get moderate closeups. The image quality is generally quite good if you don't go to extremes. In order to get 1:1 you need a total length, including the focusing helix extension, of twice the nominal focal length. That's extreme, but for a postcard sized subject area, it works pretty well.</p> <p>Once you achieve a working distance on the order of 4", the lens won't cast a significant shadow on the subject. Both extension tubes and tele-extenders reduce the effective aperture. If you need more light, you're going to have to use a flash.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 <p>I periodically use a bellows with longer focal length lenses which gives plenty of distance and magnification.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juha t finland Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 <p>Using extensions to eliminate focus breathing is possible, but it can also kill picture quality. Canon 100 L with 36 mm extension has rather soft corners if the lens is not at (very near) minimum focus to begin with. I was quite surprised at that.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phule Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 <p>[[Any suggestion?]]<br> Depending on your output requirements, moving the camera back and cropping the final image may be an option. There are other challenges there, of course, but it's a rather low cost solution that can be evaluated with beetle-sized test subjects before the real ones arrive. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Oceans Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Benjamin, I would consider using a diffuser. One option is to spend $15 on a diffusion tent. I like to use a big one 42" outside to diffuse the background as well as the subject. Diffusing will improve the detail of your subject decreasing the contrast and shadows that fall from direct lighting. The subject will also be more evenly lighted. I have noticed with my particular diffusion disc that the closer I get with it to the subject with the diffuser the warmer the light. I shoot with a Photoflex disc and I have small white, silver and gold reflectors that kick light onto the subject. I only shoot strobes for macro underwater but spend a lot of time trying to get my strobes set up to evenly light my small subjects, usually slugs that are as small as 2mm. Of course my strobes have diffusers on them and sea water helps to diffuse as well. The shooting distance is often 2 inches from the underwater port. If your in a studio I can't imagine that you can't use a diffuser to overcome your lighting problems if you have to shoot close. Only a telecoverter will allow you to shoot at a greater distance with your 100mm. Tubes and close up lenses on your 100mm allow you to get closer which sounds like a problem for you. You could rent a 180mm macro to improve your distance or use a longer focal length lens, even a zoom, with tubes or close up lens. If you go with the latter option consider achromatic dual element close lenses. I have a collection of older Nikon lenses as well as Canon and Marumi. All of these lenses are dual element and work well. Good hunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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