Hasselblad 503 CW and CFV-50C for studio use

<p>Hi there,<br>

I'm looking for a (versatile) system I could use in a studio for still photography and portrait.<br>

I'm pretty interested in the Hasselblad 503 CW with a CFV-50C.<br>

Why? I love the feel of this camera.<br>

As an ex-photoreporter, I used to — I switched a few years ago to a Leica M9-P — shoot with a Canon 5D mk II (back in the days), along with a Leica M6 and a Hasselblad 500 CM.<br />I keep such a great souvenir of my 500CM...<br>

So, I wondered if I could still have the same pleasure and feeling while entering the modern world (hence the digital back).<br>

I'd be doing macro photography of still objects (wristwatches — particularly the movements and dial details — and other antique objects), along with portrait (of musicians, fashion-inspired and maybe corporate).<br>

To sum up, my questions are: is the 503 CW a great choice for these uses? What should I know beforehand about the system? Any drawback to be aware of? Anyone using it who could give a feedback?<br /><br />PS: I love the fact the 503 CW can shoot film too — something you can't do with a 5Ds R<br /><br />I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.<br />Thanks,<br>

Simon</p>

<p>Yes, it will meet your needs very nicely.</p>

<p>Best of luck with it!</p>

<p>Although the 503CW allows you to use a CFV back without a separate sync cable to the lens, the mechanical sync has some disadvantages. The most important is that you must set the longest exposure time limit, and that limit must expire between shots. If you set it to the maximum of 32 seconds, you must wait at least 32 seconds between shots. With a sync cable to the flash port on the lens, you can take time exposures up to 32 seconds (the limit of the back) without any set limit.</p>

<p>Except for mechanical sync with a digital back, and a TTL flash sensor of dubious importance, and an optional motorized grip, the 501CM would do as well as a 503CW, including the "gliding" mirror, at half the price.</p>

<p>In a studio situation you might find it inconvenient to manually wind the mirror and shutter between shots. While the 503CW can accept a motor drive grip, it is noisy and slow. If motorized winding is your goal, I suggest a 555 ELD body. It is fast, though somewhat noisy, and runs from 5 AA batteries for a very long time. The release is electronic, and can be done from any distance (I have a 10 meter cable). It has the same "gliding" mirror as the 503CW, so it doesn't drop the finder with long lenses and closeups. Best of all, it connects to the CFV electronically. No cables are needed. The downside, it weighs 5 or 6 pounds.</p>

<p>The CFV will work with lens shutters on a 200 series body too, with a sync cable, but must be modified at the factory to use the focal plane shutter. That $400 operation will give you electronic control of the CFV back, automatic aperture priority AE, in a very nice package. I suggest a 205FCC rather than the older 205TCC (which I have), or one of the less capable 200 bodies.</p>

Not much that I can add to your question, Simon, I'm afraid, as I have no experience of studio work.

 

I just wish to make a minor correction - Edward - You mention that the CFV-50c has a maximum of 32 seconds for

exposure. This was the case for the CFV and CFV II CCD digital backs, but the CFV-50c CMOS digital back has a

maximum exposure time of 34 minutes.

 

Simon - I share your passion for the 500 series cameras because of the way that they make you feel (as much as they

might actually perform in a photographic sense). I am an amateur, so I can indulge my passion of using a 500C/M with a

CFV-50c digital back simply because I like the way that it feels in my hands. The photos are a bonus.

 

:-) ... MomentsForZen (Richard)

<blockquote>

<p>the CFV-50c CMOS digital back has a maximum exposure time of 34 minutes.<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have a CFV16, and I'm not up to date on the details for the 50C. Beware if the setup for the 503CW asks for a maximum exposure time. That's a long time to wait if it affects the spacing of all shots.<br>

<br>

There is a certain processing time which must elapse before another shot can be taken. The only notification may be a light indicating something is going on. If you try to shoot too soon, both shots may be corrupted. Even winding by hand, I have done that several times.<br>

<br>

</p>

Sage commentary, Edward.

 

If you fire the shutter before the allotted time is up, I get a multiple exposure - interesting in a very trendy / Instagram vein,

but not really my scene.

 

You can adjust the maximum exposure time as the situation dictates. For example, in a regular shooting situation, I might

set a maximum of 2 seconds. When doing a star trail exposure, I use the maximum setting of 34 minutes.

 

xThe status light blinks orange/red until the time is up, when it turns to green. Also, the audio chimes, and the image is

sent to the display when the time is up.

 

:-) ... MomentsForZen (Richard)

<p>Digital medium format has few of the "niceties" we expect in small format cameras, which are as much small computers as photographic tools. The rewards are immense. The CFV16 extended the useful life of my Hasselblad system for at least 9 years. Although 16 MP (4080X4080) seems modest by today's standards, it is more than equal to the 18 MP of my Leica M9, even a 24 MP Sony A7ii (which has an AA filter). Besides resolution, the dynamic range of MF digital is almost hard to believe. Only recently have I found something better in the Sony A7Rii - 42 MP, no AA filter, and world-class lenses. I can only imagine what the CFV50c brings to the table. I suspect that 30 year old lenses may prove to be limiting, but maybe not.</p>

<p>Richard - do you have any examples of your star trail exposures you could share with us. I am intrigued by the 34 minute exposure you refer to; is the any problem with the sensor heating up?</p>

<p>Richard - do you have any examples of your star trail exposures you could share with us. I am intrigued by the 34 minute exposure you refer to; is the any problem with the sensor heating up?</p>

<p>A 50mm lens on medium format is a wide angle lens and far too short for portraiture unless you want your sitters to look like W.C.Fields , or Jimmy Durante, I suggest you consider getting a 150 mm f4 Zeiss Sonnar lens. </p>

 

Hi there Ian.

 

Following are some links to photographs that I have posted on Flickr. I have never had the slightest hint of the sensor

heating up over that period of time. And I probably would have because the air temperature always seems to be around

the freezing point (zero degrees Celsius) and a nice "handwarmer" at the end of a 34 minute exposure would have felt

very nice!!

 

Examples of 34 minute star trails ...

 

And for good measure, an example of a "point star" image with a relatively short exposure ...

 

And the Moon with a "daylight" length exposure ...

 

:-) ... MomentsForZen (Richard)

<p>Richard - thank you. Great images.</p>

<p>Thanks for your answers. I deeply appreciate it.</p>