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Should I try the tri-x or the ilford hp5+?


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<p>So I'm going on a school trip for a week, and was wondering which 35mm film I should try out. I've been using kodak for most of the time, and never tired out ilford. Should I go for the tri-x or the ilford hp5+ (or other ilfords like the pan 400)? Thanks for your suggestion! :)</p>
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<p>Tri-X and HP5+ are both fine films - by a very small margin I prefer Tri-X - it seems to be slightly sharper and slightly less grainy. I don't really know what Pan 400 is – I suspect an earlier formulation of HP5+, the production of which has been licensed to a third-party company. The choice is yours – stick with what you know and like or try something new!</p>
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<p>Sometimes I do something different just to be different, and that might include using a different film, or camera. </p>

<p>But since you ask, I think the best choice is what you are used to, unless the price difference, if any, is enough to make the choice one way or the other.</p>

<p>As well as I know them, there isn't any specific reason to choose one over the other. <br>

One might be better in one developer, the other might push better, but you didn't mention one of those. </p>

<p>The two developers that I use are Diafine and HC-110. Both films are fine in both of those. <br>

The Diafine recommended EI for Tri-X is 1600, and for HP-5 and HP-5+ 800. </p>

-- glen

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<p>They are very similar and excellent films, also very forgiving. The pan 400 is a film we find in Asia, it's also very good and a cheaper alternative. Now i prefer ilford but I should say you should stick to what you know best especially if the photos are important. If you want a slower film, FP4125 is really great.</p>
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<p>Yes, use Tri-X on your trip, but then try a roll of some Ilford film after you get back. </p>

<p>Then you can learn for yourself how similar or different they are.</p>

<p>It is a pretty general rule that for special occasions, where you won't be able to redo them later, to try not to change things that don't need changing. That is, even if the change seems to be small.</p>

<p>You might, for example, forget to check the development time for the different film, or be too used to the time for Tri-X and forget to check. (I didn't look, maybe the are the same. Likely pretty close.) </p>

<p>But after the trip, you will have a chance to try new things. Try a different film, and maybe developer, but not change both at the same time. </p>

<p>You might also try Kodak T-Max 400, or Ilford Delta 400, both tabular grain films. </p>

-- glen

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<p>Tri-X and HP5 may be from the same vintage, but I find them to be quite different -- at least in the processes that I am using. Some people love HP5, but I never have. I find it to be too grey and like "oatmeal" if that makes sense. I have to add a lot of contrast in printing or in Lightroom after scanning the negative to get the look I have in mind. Maybe you have already done your trip, but definitely try out a roll of HP5 to see if you like it!</p>
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  • 4 weeks later...

If Tri-x is your go to I would say take a fair amount of

that but if you want to try something out why not get a

few rolls of the other to give them the shot. I know a lot

of people who LOVE Tri-X, personally there are times I

like it and times I don't. I think it has a little less latitude and comes back with too many inky blacks. Its often used for concerts and night scenes though it's a pretty versatile film that does AMAZING for achitecture.

 

If you're going someplace like the beach, city or desert where there's going to be a lot of scene that are going to be HDR you'll want HP5+ because for general use of comes back a little flat. But it was specifically designed for HDR and for push/pull processing. Of you get HP5+ and are going to push/pull I would highly recommend setting a 1L packet of Microphen.

 

If you shoot a lot of film you can look into a couple bulk loaders and get many films in 100' bulk rolls. Personally if I'm going to be just wasting films I'll go with a bulk roll of Kentmere or "Ultrafine" (they take film stocks and rent and them. One bulk roll I got was like Agfa Optima 100 or whatnot. Decent stuff) 100 or 400, generally 100.

If I'm going to shoot something specific where I want to be absolutely certain on quality I'll go with Ilford Delta Pro, HP5+ for push/pull or HDR or Tri-X or Tmax depending on what I'm shooting.

 

Flickr is a great Tool to use when you have a curiosity because you can search say "Kentmere 400 ID-11 1+1" and go through and take a look. You'll have to check the info button to be sure that it is indeed that film and was processed in that developer. Or that it is 3535mm or the format you're looking for and not something else. But it's great to see what a film is capable of and how it looks especially when coupled with a specific developer.

 

You can also type in just the film and search to see what it looks like in different developers, or the developer to see what it looks like in different films.

 

I hope this has helped. Have a good day and happy hunting.

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