Best overall developer (liquid solution) for TriX & TMax for a beginner

<p>Hello All,<br>

This is my first post here, and I am also new to developing my own film. To get started, I ordered a pretty basic set of chemicals that I saw on another site: D76, Kodak Indicator Stop, Kodafix, Kodak Hypo Clear, and Kodak Photo-Flo. I have been shooting on TriX 400 and Tmax 400 and I've been pretty happy with my results developing them in the previously mentioned chemicals.<br>

My only problem so far is with the dry chemical mixing for the D76 and Hypo Clear. I have already ordered some TF-4 fixer which will eliminate my need for the Hypo-Clear.<br>

I am wondering what everyone considers to be a good overall developer for TriX and TMax that is available in liquid solution. I have already ruled out Rodinal due to the grain characteristics based on what I have heard elsewhere. Some options I am considering are Ilford DD-X and Ifosol-3, but I am open to any suggestions.</p>

<p>HC-110 Is a classic.<br>

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

<p>HC 110 is a good liquid concentrate film developer, and PermaWash is a good liquid concentrate hypo clearing agent. There are others as well, but these are products that I have 30+ years with reliable results. Incidentally, TF4 might eliminate the need for stop bath, but any fixer still needs to be washed out of film or paper.</p>

<p>If you are worried about grain with Rodinal, know that it is more about skill than developer. This leads me to this suggestion.....stick with what you have and get good with it before moving on to something else. At this stage the grass is always greener on the other side. You'll get there and there is much to learn.</p>

<p>You don't need hypo clear with modern fixers, especially with film. Hypo Clear is sodium sulfite and most fixers contain it for that functionality.</p>

<p>Sit back and relax and enjoy your shooting!</p>

<p>I highly recommend D-76. I've used it almost exclusively for over 40 years and it's the perfect companion for Tri-X. But if you want liquied, HC-110 is probably the next best thing, and you can use Tmax developer with either Tmax films or regular films like Tri-X.<br /><br />Forget about the Hypo Clear. It's helpful with fiber paper but unnecessary for film. I wash film for 20 minutes in running water. Hypo Clear lets you do it in five, but I find it easier just to run the water longer.<br /><br />What problems are you having mixing the D-76? The three secrets are 1) you have to mix it as 125F as indicated on the package. Anything cooler won't dissolve the powder. 2) It takes a lot of stirring. 3) Use a container that's larger than the amount you're mixing so you have room for it to splash around without spilling.<br /><br />What I discovered a few years ago for mixed powdered chemicals is a paint stirrer attachment for my electric drill. You can get these at any hardwar store. Shaft if about a foot long and there's a sort of propeller piece that's two or three inches in diameter. Put it on a cordless drill and you can mix chemicals quickly and without your arm getting tired from stirring.</p>

<p>I completely understand not liking powdered chemicals. Having asthma, any powder to mix is more of a pain for me. I'm also fairly inconsistent in how frequently I develop, so I prefer one shot liquids anyway. I use Ilford's DDX and like it. It isn't as cheap as many others, but I do like my results. HC-110 is easy to use as well. Once friends find out you're developing film and find some ancient roll in a cabinet somewhere, it'll be your best choice for that, too. I used to love Ilfosol S, but the new version (Ilfosol 3) is not my favorite because the times got so short that I started having problems with uneven developing. <br>

Ditto to others about hypo clear - good to use with fiber paper, not a huge deal with film. <br>

Ilford's rapid fixer is a liquid as well, though I have heard good things about TF-4. </p>

<p>Tri-X and HC-110 is a pretty bulletproof combination. It's been around for a long time, and it was one of Ansel Adams's favorites, for what that's worth.</p>

<p>I haven't been in the darkroom for a couple of years, but if you choose to mix up a powder developer, you might consider <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124564-REG/Kodak_8751752_Xtol_Developer_Powder_for.html">Kodak Xtol</a>. I really like my negatives that came through Xtol, at dilutions from 1 + 1 to 1 + 3. The stock solution is stable for months, perhaps a year, in air-purged one-liter bottles. </p>

<p>Echoing Peter's comments - Rodinal (Adonal, Paranol) should not be dismissed. I have used it over the last 30-odd years with a wide range of films. Rodinal, in my experience, was the most robust and reliable of developers</p>

Any Rodinal type developer will give more grain but it also depends on your own processing, keep the grain under control

by minimizing the agitation with this developer. In the mean time sold as: Adonal (Adox), Paranol-S (Tetenal), R09 o.s.

(Compard/Rollei), Fomadon R09 (Foma).

 

I would certainly recommend HC-110 for both fims, Tri-X 400 and Tmax(TMY-2). Less grain then Rodinal but also less

sharpness.

When using these films in 35mm format my first choice would be HC-110.

<p>Just as you, I started developing only very recently, and my starting kit came with Rodinal (R09 one shot). I read the same warnings for grain, but also read what Robert wrote, about agitation being the key to keeping it under control. So, I tried with half the agitation that all the tutorials wrote to do, and it's been fine with Tri-X.I've also used it with Tri-X at ISO800, and while the grain can be noticed, it's nice looking. Plus, it's dirt cheap, give it a try on a testrole. For me, one 120ml bottle of rodinal (=enough for 20 rolls) cost about the same as what it would cost to develop 1 roll in Ilford DD-X.</p>

<p>Unless you're processing a lot of film, the other problem with D-76 is shelf-life of the mixed solution. (You can avoid that by mixing from scratch in small batches.)<br>

HC-110 is the most cost-effective solution. Mix directly from syrup, you'll need a child's medical dosing syringe to measure small quantities of the syrup accurately. Due to the high dilution, you need to be really accurate in measuring.<br>

DD-X and Ilfosol 3 are much lower dilution, making them easier to measure. I've had pretty good luck keeping open bottles of DD-X close to 2 years. But they are much more expensive per roll than HC-110. I am very happy with the results from DD-X.</p>

Suggestions to skip hypo clear and simply wash longer do NOT apply to California. We do not have any water (and the little we have is

going to fire suppression right now).

<p>My sympathy definitely goes out to anybody trying to work in a darkroom in California these days. What would Ansel have done?</p>

<p>No one has mentioned the Ilford wash method.<br>

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/ilfwash.pdf</p>

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<p>Suggestions to skip hypo clear and simply wash longer do NOT apply to California. We do not have any water (and the little we have is going to fire suppression right now).</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Apparently you didn't see my post. 4th one from the top....go for it. </p>

<p>Thanks so much for all the helpful responses! Certainly a lot to consider here. I've got several rolls worth of D76 left, so I have some time to weigh the options. I will probably end up going with HC-110 or DD-X, but I might get a bottle of Rodinal as well just to see what it is all about.</p>

Peter, I did see your post, but was responding specifically to Craig's.

<p>No issues.</p>

<p>You can dev Tri-X in vulture vomit. All developers out there are good ones. It depends on what you like, what is available for you, what gives you the image you like, etc. Develop several rolls in a particular developer to learn what it can and cannot do. If it doesn't work for you, try a different one. All of the above suggestions are valid.</p>

<p>And Xtol? Even vulture vomit has been mentioned, so what is wrong with it?</p>

<p>HC-110 is a good choice. I have a bottle that I haven't started yet.</p>

<p>I always like Diafine, and many others like it for Tri-X. Diafine is powder, but lasts long enough, even if you don't use it often, that it shouldn't bother you much. I think mine is now four years old. </p>

<p>If you use rapid fixer, it is fast enough to wash, and doesn't take all that much water. If you use non-rapid (sodium based) fixer, then HCA is still useful. HCA is also good for fiber based paper, usually not for RC paper, again with rapid fixer. </p>

<p>Hard to go wrong with HC110, works great with old film, new film, it's one shot so it's economical, several dilutions, easy to mix, lasts longer than my brothers four marriages (yikes!)........not difficult to work with, very nice results with TMax 400 old and new. I've been using for years, it's my go to developer. I rate TMax 400 at 320, and occasionally 250, adjust development times, (most of my work is shot on 120 & 4X5), and I get consistent, beautiful results. Can't recommend it enough!</p>

 

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<p><a name="00dUZX"></a><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=859499">Jim Appleyard</a>, Sep 15, 2015; 04:07 p.m.</p>

<p>You can dev Tri-X in vulture vomit...</p>

 

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<p>Love it.</p>

<p>Yeah, just to pile on: HC110, skip the hypo clear, and use Ilford rinse method. With the latter I typically do a few more rinses, for insurance. My stored films seem to be holding up ok; I do scan them right away.</p>