surlen_woals Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>I have my eyes on a model that is up for sale from a local photographer in New York at what seems like a very reasonable price, but I am a bit suspicious. I am skeptical they'd be offering me what seem like "friend" prices for no other reason than that they empathise with a first-time large format photographer. What are common issues that can be found in a visual inspection that I should look out for? I gave it a very cursory look-over but did not feel qualified to make the call. Model is a Calumet/Cambo 45N or SCN that they claim is in mint condition, albeit with dessicated leveling bubbles. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_darnton2 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Check the support castings that hold the upright posts supporting the front and back for cracks. If you take a short ruler with you, the distance between the front and back, measured at these posts top, bottom, left, and right should be within a mm or two of all the same. This is a fragile part of the camera, and things can be bent back a little, but not if they're like a half-inch wrong.</p> <p>A "friendly" price for a complete camera without lens would be $100-150. I've bought two on Ebay for around that.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou_Meluso Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <blockquote> <p>I am skeptical they'd be offering me what seem like "friend" prices for no other reason than that they empathize with a first-time large format photographer</p> </blockquote> <p>I suppose I understand your suspicion that a photographer might be interested in helping a novice get started, but I can attest that it does happen. On the camera, check the bellows for light leaks by putting a bright light inside in a dark room and inspecting all the folds, especially in the corners. Be sure the bellows attach and detach properly from the front and rear standard. See that the rise/fall/tilt/shift movements are smooth and fluid (note: on the Cambo some movements are simply lock and unlock and move my hand) and that they lock down securely. Check to see that the mounting bushing on the baseplate is not stripped and holds solidly on a tripod. Bubble levels tend to dry up and are easy to replace. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surlen_woals Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>He's asking 300$ for the camera plus three lensboards, 350$ for camera, lensboards and 4 film holders, and 450 for camera, lensboards, film holders and a Kodak Ektar 127mm in "<em><strong>not perfect but good for pictures</strong></em>" condition (quoting him here). I had thought it was "friendly" because the Cambo's in mint I saw on ebay were pretty pricey, more like 500+ for the camera alone.<br /><br />Louis: Yeah, I get the impression that he might be excited to see a young person getting into large format (I seem significantly younger than your average large format enthusiast). Certainly I understand that people like to 'nerd out' about hardware with others, too. And older men do sometimes get a kick out of that whole surrogate-son tutelage vibe. But I can equally see it as someone seeing an opportunity to scam a naive young person "who should know better" or something along those lines. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheldonnalos Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Those aren't even "friendly" prices. Most people can't give away a monorail 4x5 camera. The camera and lens boards are worth $100-150, the lens is worth maybe $50.<br> <br />Ignore what people are "asking" for a camera on ebay, and look at completed sales. There are a bunch of Cambo monorails that have sold for $100 or so. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baisao Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <blockquote> <p>I suppose I understand your suspicion that a photographer might be interested in helping a novice get started, but I can attest that it does happen.</p> </blockquote> <p>I encounter this far more often than one might think. Of course, I do my part to help others as well. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surlen_woals Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Why are monorails so undesirable these days? <br /><br />I did take a look at completed sales and they are much closer to what you specified. I feel like a chump. Shouldn't'a trust 'em. I'll see if I can haggle him down to a more reasonable price. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Monorails are really awkward to carry and use in the field. They are really "studio" cameras, formerly widely used for product photography for advertizing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surlen_woals Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Thanks for the help John, Sheldon and Louis.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bethe_fisher Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 <p>Monorails are tough to use in the field, but I've done it. I also sold mine and bought a field camera (Chamonix). But it was a great way to get started and see if I liked LF. I sold mine to someone who wanted something cheap and is not going to try and lug it around (he's disabled and wants to do studio stuff with it). <br> And once you buy one, they seem to multiply. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l3 Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 <p>The Ektar lens is not worth the extra $100 in my opinion. For perspective, I got a Toyo monorail 4x5 with a 150mm Nikkor lens for $165 in Maryland this year. Film holders can be found for $10 or less. Things to watch for. If the bellows looks degraded it likely has pin holes you will need to patch, or have to replace the bellows completely. The lens shutter can give you frustration if it's not working close to perfect. Be sure all parts, knobs, and levers, are in good order. Monorail cameras have lots of movements, more than most field cameras. I learned with one and still have respect for what they can achieve. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 <p>What Sheldon said, and I think he's bang on with prices. Your photographer friend is living in the past, in a world of <em>Dynasty</em> reruns and big hair. This is the 21st century, and prices of MF and LF gear have cratered.</p> <p>Second thing: the Ektar 127 is a good lens, but it's a poor choice for a monorail 4 x 5 because it won't allow for any movements. It actually doesn't quite cover a 4 x 5 negative even with the movements zeroed, and your corners will be a bit soft. (Despite that, it was widely used by press photographers, who weren't fussed about such details. As an example, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raising_the_Flag_on_Iwo_Jima">this obscure and little-known photo</a> was taken through a 127 Ektar.)</p> <p>A better first choice for a lens would be a plasmat type, probably a 150mm, like one of Rodenstock's Sironar series or Schneider's Symmars. They give you room for tilts and shifts, and even the old ones are good. You should be able to get a good deal on one, but whenever you buy a second-hand view camera lens, it's a safe bet you'll have to get the shutter cleaned.</p> <p>But as far as this one goes: pass.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feodordefemina Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 <p>Way overpriced. The Ektar lens is not as good as the commercial ektar. If you are sensible you will get a better camera and a modern lens and shutter. Those are one step above junk. And be aware that there are folding cameras such as the Wisner that are lighter and easier to transport.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_shearman1 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 <p>I have a Calument 45N. I think I paid $150 for it new, on sale, about 20 years ago. The lens is 210mm Rodenstock (I think) and might have been $200 or $250.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art_thomas1 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 <p>The Ektar 127mm lens in excellent shape, coating and all, is a nice sharp picture take. However it was designed for 3x4 or quarter plate cameras and vignettes on 4x5. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_rittenhouse1 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 <p>Having fairly recently, about a year and a half ago, bought a 4x5 monorail camera on ebay for $150, I can tell you that it was not a working camera. Needed the bellows and rear standard replaced. After that and a decent lens, I had more like $500 in it. That is not counting a tripod and film holders which I already had. Still a $3000 camera for $500 was not such a bad deal.<br> The 127 Ektar barely covers 4x5 with no movements at all. Definitely not a view camera lens.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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