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Yashica Mat 124G battery question.


raymond_w

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<p>Hi I am thinking about getting a Yashica 124G as my first medium format camera.<br>

I have read that the battery is discontinued and there is alternatives/workarounds for it.<br>

But my question is, is the shutter electronic or mechanic?<br>

In other words, can I use Yashica Mat 124g without battery while I use an hand-held light meter for the correct exposure? I want to save the trouble of buying batteries if the batteries are really giving power to the meter.<br>

I researched online and nobody seems to have brought up a similar question like this.<br>

<br />Thanks in advance.</p>

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<p>The answer is yes--the shutter mechanism is mechanical, and is not coupled in any way to the activity of the metering system except to adjust its sensitivity. There is no feedback from the metering to the shutter or diaphragm.</p>

<p>The yashica uses a 'match needle' system which mechanically and electrically modifies the position of the match arm (f stop) and the sensitivity of the cell (shutter speed). I decided against fiddling with the battery modification. Instead I bought a simple flash shoe adapter that screws on to my Gossen meter--and that is slid into the camera's side flash shoe. Modern, accurate, and impressive looking!</p>

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<p>Years ago I owne a 124G and I currently own a 124. I actually prefer the 124 because it feels less plasticky than the 124G, but that's beside the point.</p>

<p>The Mat 124 and G take the discontinued PX625 mercury battery. You can buy an expensive Wein zinc-air battery that will last maybe 10 months, if you're lucky, or you can do as I and many others do for PX625 replacements -- use 675 hearing aide batteries. The 675 is identical to the Wein in voltage -- about 1.4v, which is plenty accurate enough for replacing the 1.35v mercury battery. It also lasts just as long. But the big reason for using 675s is they are CHEAP. I buy a card of 40 of them at Cosco for $10. Yep, that's 40 cents each. If you don't have a Costco nearby, you can buy them in these little wheel-shaped cards of six batteries at drug stores like Walgreens and CVS for $6 or $7. Not as cheap as Costco, but 6 or 7 times cheaper than a Wein.</p>

<p>The only real drawback to using a 675 hearing aide battery is the size difference. The 675 battery is about the same thickness as the old PX625, but its diameter is smaller. For most cameras that I use a 675 as a replacement in, this isn't a problem because the battery compartment has a spring that holds the battery in place, and the + voltage is usually picked up from the battery compartment's cap. Some battery compartments pick up the + voltage from the side, however, in which case some adjustments will be in order. Now, without looking at my 124, I don't recall how the + voltage is picked up, but let's say the contact is on the side. Two workarounds exist for this. One that I will do is cut a thin, narrow strip of aluminum foil, fold it up until it is the same thickness as the battery, and then wrap it around the battery's circumference until the correct diameter is reached. The other method -- that indeed works better -- is to order adapter rings from Joh Goodman, of Interslice fame -- the guy who makes replacement light seal kits for cameras. If you google his name, you should get a hit on his email address. Jon's a good guy and a pleasure to do busness with.</p>

<p>Now, if all this is sounding like too much trouble (it isn't, trust me), then do as I and most others do -- use an external meter. I have confirmed on more than one occasion that the 124's meter does a decent job, for being a non-TTL arrangement, but I've always preferred using a good, hand-held meter instead. These days you can find vintage meters for very reasonable on sites like eBay. I like the old Gossen Luna Pros, but I prefer the SBC or F -- they both take a standard 9v battery. I like them better than the older Luna Pros because the early ones take a battery that is, yep, the old PX625. Sekonics are also great meters. Lots of 'em out there.</p>

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<p>Skip the battery. The onboard meter was never all that accurate.<br>

I'd pass on relic meters like the Gossens. Get the newest you can afford. The Sekonic L-398M is widely available used and is great for incident metering(its only drawback is limited low light sensitivity). Used Sekonics-318/328/308-are all nice compact incident meters. </p>

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<p>You will enjoy the camera which was also my initial medium format camera (and I would still be happy with it for many applications). The shutter is mechanical as has been mentioned and not dependent upon a battery. TLR photography is slower (often an advantage) than that with automatic exposure and auto-focussing, so either solution (modified batteries or hand-held meter) is OK, as long as you know the limitations (angle of reading, accuracy) of the meter and normal mechanical shutter speed and f-stop variations from those indicated.</p>

<p>Whatever system you choose (I think modern light hand held Gossen meters like the compact Luna-Pro digital, or others, are a good choice and are very responsive) you may wish to calibrate everything (variables of shutter speed, diaphragm, meter reading) by photographing a uniformly lit full toned subject under varying conditions for the same exposure. One or two films (black and white or slide) will give you enough information to calibrate the system.</p>

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<p>Very good advice from Michael. Just to correct one minor detail:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>a card of 40 of them at Cosco for $10. Yep, that's 40 cents each.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's 25 cents each - even better!</p>

<p>C:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'd pass on relic meters like the Gossens.<br>

The Sekonic L-398M...its only drawback is limited low light sensitivity</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Which is where the 'relic' Gossen Luna-Pro SBC proves its worth. One of the most sensitive light meters ever produced.</p>

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<p><em>Which is where the 'relic' Gossen Luna-Pro SBC proves its worth. One of the most sensitive light meters ever produced.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

<em><br /></em>Doesn't really matter if it's not accurate and linear. Some are, others--not so much. Just because the needle still twitches on a 40 year-old meter doesn't mean it's accurate. I'll take a newer AA-powered Sekonic over a zinc-air battery-hacked Gossen any day, thanks.<br>

<em> </em><br>

<em> </em></p>

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<p>Forget the battery, use a handheld meter (or a wet finger!). The meter in the 124G is one of the worst I've come across. Casting a shadow over, or letting bright light fall anywhere near to its sensor will throw the meter way off - and that just shouldn't happen with any halfway decent meter design.</p>

<p>Almost <em>any</em> handheld meter will be more accurate - even an old Russian Leningrad or the like. Steer clear of Westons after the model III however. They'll almost certainly be dead or dying and inaccurate. Weston IVs, Vs and Euro-Masters are a definite no-no. But I still have Weston IIs and IIIs that are working perfectly. They changed the Selenium cell after the model III to a much less robust type that has a lifespan of only a few years.</p>

<p>Personally I like the Sekonic "Studio" L-398. Battery free, robust, small and reliable, but as previously mentioned, not too sensitive. Quantum Calcu-Light meters are also really neat and much more sensitive, if you can find one. Another good range of meters are the Minolta Autometers (III or IVF) - old enough to be cheap, but new enough to be accurate and convenient to use with a digital readout.</p>

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<p>The meter on the 124G is a bit of a joke. It is almost certainly less accurate than if you were to guess your exposure based upon the instructions on the box of film.</p>

<p>A battery is not needed on the 124G for it to be meaningfully operable. Despite feeling like it is made of bubble gum and beer cans, the glass is excellent. </p>

<p>You can use a meter on your smart phone or get a Gossen Luna Pro-SBC. I would stay away from other old meters. The Luna Pros-SBC, despite its age is rugged and remarkably accurate. As Arthur said, slowing down can be a good thing.</p>

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<p>Old Gossen? Inaccurate relics? Whilst using a 30-50 year old meter might add charisma to your street appearance, there is no need for that! Want a classic matchup to hang around your neck? Get a Weston Master. I have a Master V that has enough accuracy for ANYTHING that the vast majority of photographers will accomplish with a TLR. Reasonable too.</p>

<p>Some good meters have been suggested. As noted, the meter in the 124 (all flavors) leaves a whole lot to be desired. There is a mod which involves placing a short (about 1/2") tube over the cell ring housing to "shade" it from side lighting. Even then, the meter is still junk.</p>

<p>Gossen makes a whole series of small digital meters that are perfect for a day of trolling about with a TLR. Older, previous models can be had relatively cheap. As shown below, I use a 12 year old DigiFlash and adapter shoe with my 124 and Minolta Autocord. These can be had all day for well under $50. We do not have an accuracy problem...</p>

<p>Sorry about the crappy photos. My super deluxe HTC M8 One smartphone has the crappiest camera known to high end smartphones...</p>

<p><img src="http://papatango.photography/pn1/yashica.jpg" alt="" /><br /> <img src="http://papatango.photography/pn1/minolta.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>Electronic shutter?! That was the late sixties, dude. :-)</p>

<p>The year that I was the high school yearbook photographer I used the school's Yashicamat. Contrary to what some say, I found the meter was right more often than a stopped watch -- although maybe not a lot more often. I had a lot more faith in my used Weston Master II with its big selenium cell.</p>

 

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<p>I must be doing something wrong with my 124G and its meter??? I have no problems getting very accurate readings with my 124G's built-in meter. But, and this is a big but, you have to make sure it's calibrated to the film and you have to know how to use it. These built-in meters don't have fancy "matrix" meter patterns like the latest built-in cameras have so you have to do some thinking. I use the 1.4 hearing aid battery with adapter in mine and I always shade the cell from overhead stray sunlight. I also do not measure the overall scene, but instead try to find something of middle grey value to meter (tilt down and get a reading of grass is pretty close) or use the zone system and take a close-up reading and set the value accordingly. After saying all this I still prefer to use my Gossen Luna Star F, but if I only have the 124G I can do just fine with its built-in meter. John W</p>
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<p>I have never had problems with the meter on my 124G. It's definitely more accurate than anything I've seen on a smartphone. But as others have said, no need for a battery in this camera other than the meter. And despite those who say it looks plasticy, it's a metal camera and very solid in its construction. Not as much of a locomotive as my Mamiya C330, but still going strong proably 40 years after it came out of the factory. I doubt the same will be said 40 years from now about any of today's crop of digital plastic, most of which are doorstops without a battery and use proprietary batteries that we'll be lucky to find in 10 years let alone 40.</p>
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<p>Patrick, I'm sure that there must be a (very) small percentage of Weston Master Vs still working and reasonably accurate. However it's my experience that the vast majority of them are now either as dead as a Dodo or completely inaccurate toward the high end of the needle range.</p>

<p>There's a simple test. Point the meter at something that reads 10 with the flap closed and on the high scale (max 16). Now, without moving the aim of the meter, open the flap and see if you get anywhere close to 10 on the low scale. No? Then the meter's got a dying cell, is beyond economic repair and useless.</p>

<p>If by some miracle it passes the above test, buy a lottery ticket matching the serial number of the meter.</p>

<p>I now have 4 mint-looking Weston Vs and a Weston IV in my possession that all fail this basic test. Would I risk any money on a further Weston "gambler"? - nope, not a penny!</p>

<p>OTOH I have several nice-looking Weston IIIs (first version to be calibrated in ASA/ISO speeds) and a couple of IIs that are as frisky and accurate as they ever were. I even have the ND mask and Invercone sets for them.</p>

 

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<blockquote>

<p> I have no problems getting very accurate readings with my 124G's built-in meter.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I've heard this a few times now, while for most people they are junk. I have wondered it a certain number of them, like 1 in 10, actually worked, or if the claims that they worked were a product of film latitude. This isn't to say I doubt you, but I've seen many that were operational but only as good as a guess.</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>As shown below, I use a 12 year old DigiFlash and adapter shoe with my 124 and Minolta Autocord. These can be had all day for well under $50.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Now that's a clever solution! I looked around yesterday and couldn't find one close to being under $50 but admit to having limited access to the web. </p>

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<p>In defense of the Gossen Luna Pro SBC -- and the Luna Pro F -- these date back to the 80s, not the 70s. If you want a 40-year-old Gossen, you're stuck with ones that take a PX625. The SBC and the F are more modern updates and take a 9v battery. I've been using my F for about 25 years and it is still as accurate as it was the day I bought it. The SBC I found in a local camera shop's junk bins for $5. It had a sticker on it saying "4 stops off." Well I figured maybe it just needed adjustment. I'd give it a shot for $5. Turns out the EV dial on the meter had been rotated 4 stops away from zero. What an easy fix.</p>

<p>Oh, and I will periodically check my meters against a known value. I prefer using the incident sphere on a sunny day, which should give a "Sunny f/16" reading, that is 1/ISO at f/16. Pointing it at a blue sky or green grass on a sunny day gives the same reading. Both meters are still right on the money. And no, the needle doesn't jump on either. That's something I see with old Nikons with worn out or dirty resister wheels.</p>

<p>Barring all that, another easy way to meter if you have another camera with a known accurate meter is just to use it to meter a scene and transfer the readings to your 124G.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>The light meter on my 124G is non-functional, partly due to perhaps dirty contacts in the switch that turns it on when the hood is lifted. But I have a Gossen Digisix that solves any of my likely metering problems. There is that and a Sekonic L-208 that can still be purchased new. But for relatively basic metering, there are apps for smart phones that are fairly impressive and trivial in cost. Now there are even hemispheric diffusers that can be clipped on the phone for incident readings. I have added a couple of the apps to my iPhone, as they allow displaying meter readings for teeny tiny f-stops when playing with pinhole cameras, eliminating the need to do calculations.</p>

<p>I do intend to try repairing the meter "one of these days" but I'm a bit reluctant to potentially take the camera out of action by messing around inside, since it's been doing very well taking pictures in its current condition. I also own a Sekonic L-508, but that's overkill for the TLR on vacation treks.</p>

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<p>One final word (from me) on the topic of metering and exposure. You can find, scattered across the internet, various charts that describe scenes in enough detail where accurate exposures can be determined. I have a couple of these charts folded up and tucked away in a couple of my camera bags. But I've never run across one quite as tidy and as convenient as this one, called Andy's Handy Exposure Calculator. Good for ISOs from 25 to 3200. Never needs batteries. Besides, I kinda like its slide-rule style format. Here's a .pdf of the chart:</p>

<p>http://www.saralando.com/photos/GSFP/ExposureCalculator.pdf</p>

<p> </p>

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