Contax IIIa in exchange for a Hasselblad 500 EL / M

<p>The deal: I hand over a Contax IIIa in full working condition with a Zeiss Opton Sonnar 50mm lens and get in return a Hasselblad 500 EL/M body and back with serial numbers that do not match. No lens included. The camera has been serviced recently.<br>

<br />Is this a good deal? Any advice?<br>

Thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Personally I wouldn't, but you will have to judge if the deal works for you.</p>

<p>Which camera was serviced - the ELM or the Contax?</p>

<p>I'd look at eBay sold listings for each and then decide if it were fair.</p>

<p>The EL/M was the one recently serviced.</p>

<p>I agree with Anthony & Stephen.<br>

I never used a Contax myself, heard they are complicated (inside) but assume they might be ahead of Leicas of their time. - What I am trying to say: yours looks barely used and<em> you know it is working</em>. - Everybody else has to either try happy go lucky or pay an repair tech $2-300 for a soothing CLA, if they buy a vintage RF. <br>

To me the EL/M is not very appealing. From my understanding its a 500 with built in motor winder with proprietary NC battery? - I have a motordrive for a 35mm with such collecting dust. - 1st: the NC cells don't last forever. - They can be exchanged but that involves money. By now I'd need the 3rd or forth set for my pack. - How hard are you shooting 120 film to need a winder? Have you loaded Hasselblad mags? - IMHO its nice to exchange about 3 but you'll need an assistant / apprentice to reload them in a somewhat timely fashion if you are shooting like crazy.<br>

How valuable is a motorwinder? - Every cool guy cobbled one on his AE 1 back in the 80s to look slightly pro, but honestly: when did 2FPS ever make our days? - I can't recall, but I surely missed more shots due to complicated switching on of both camera & winder with Pentax. The Hasselblad is surely winding even slower, but should be easier to get ready. - I'd go for a handcranked version anytime. Film seems meant to slow us down; for clicking away there is digital by now. And I'd guess half the Leica M fanboys wouldn't mind a hand cocked shutter as seen back in the Epson RD 1 on their digital bodies. With tiny 35mm cameras there used to be arguing via ergonomics; i.e. Winders made holding heavy lenses more comfortable. I'd doubt that to be a valid point on Hasselblad. Summary: no matter what it diod cost new; I see the EL/M as a less desirable version these days, but I used to walk around with my MF gear, YMMV with studio like shots.<br>

If you are going to buy a digital back and plan to shoot like crazy with it: Go ahead! but I am wondering if a seasoned MF body is the ideal starting point for that. I'd also suspect your purchase candidate to have seen a lot of professional use and wear that comes with it back in its days. - "Recently serviced" doesn't mean "restored / refurbished".<br>

Upon the Contax: RFs aren't everybody (else)'s cup of tea. - So if trading it in gets your shelf decluttered: Go ahead! </p>

<p>Jochen,<br>

<br />Im almost feeling guilty by even consider to make the trade...<br>

<br />I appreciate very much your insight. My shelf gave place to a dedicated room a few years ago. I`ve only recently put some of the cameras into use. Im not a pro, im just a photography curious.<br>

There are a few medium formats but no Hasselblad yet and I am really getting into the square format.<br>

Which Hasselblad model would be fair to trade for the Contax as is, in your opinion?</p>

<p>The EL would not be my first choice in a Hassy. I would go for any of the mechanical versions in the 500 series. But I would gladly give up the Contax for a Hassy. For my purposes and IMHO, the Hasselblad is still a usable, working professional tool while the Contax (no offense meant to Contax fans) is more of a collector's item.</p>

<p>My experience with several Contax rangefinder cameras with rollerblind shutters is not good thus I no longer buy that camera, try to trade it for Hasselblad model 500 instead of the one with built in motor!</p>

<p>Sorry for getting back late, but I really <em>don't</em> know my way around the Hasselbalad system. I think the classic cranked cubes are called 500 or V?<br>

I never managed to turn pro with film, heard Hasselblads are fine cameras, shot one roll in a friend's older one (I suppose instant return mirrors got introduced some day?) and fiddled with reloading mags. - I'm sure the Zeiss glass beats my Mamiya TLRs' or Pentacon's but I can't be bothered to check it out. - 1st of all I'd need a hell of an enlarging lens or scanner to maybe notice differences. 2nd I'd need to shoot a lot of slow film from tripod or with strobes to become really aware of them.<br>

To me MF just meant (and still means if I'll demothball) more fun in the darkroom and bearable 8x10 prints from pushed TMY. <br>

My arguing against the EL/M is based on experience with 35mm Pentax. I collect(ed) too much gear myself too for sure. - But I am not able to tell camera values for these (to me) exotic brands. <br>

I surely don't want to convince you to skip Hasselbald entirely. - If it attracts you and you see a chance to get hold of lenses to make it interesting / rewarding: Go for it!<br>

I picked my stuff back when prices were higher and it was what I could somehow afford. - I'm quite happy with the TLR concept, sure using a paramender for closeup shots is a bit fiddly & annoying, but not focusing through my softeners or dark color filters seems worth it. <br>

If I was you I'd look up Hasselbald's focusing screen evolution. - I believe they introduced something called "Acute matte" or similar that seems absolutely droolworthy to me. - Unfortunately there were no 3rd party clones for my Mamiyas in reach. - Old MF cameras' conventional ground glasses can be annoyingly dim, especially behind the wider lenses. <br>

Good luck!</p>