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HC-110


anthony_roth

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I am developing tri-x and tmax fills (not together ;), using HC-110.

I have a couple of questions. First, although I ordinarily use 120,

i do have a 220 back and recently have developed 2 rolls of 220 using

the same process. Do I need to increae the potency of the developer

solution (or development time) since there is more film surface

area? If so, is there some way to figure out by how much other than

trial and error.

 

Also, I have been mixing one part HC-110 to 28 parts water, and not

using a stock solution. It seems to work fine for me, but I'm really

just a beginner. Is there any reason that I may be overlooking that

this is not a good idea? Seems to me like it would yield more

control not less (assuming accurate measurement of 1 oz., which isn't

too hard with the right tool) gien that i start each time with fresh

HC-110 and not a stock that has been sitting around for some months.

 

Last, does anyone know where I can find the characteristic curves of

most black and white films. I am looking for a single source, and

maybe even one that compares the curves to one another and explains

what the difference in result theoretically should be. In my

experience, these curves don't come with the film and I couldn't find

such a book at B&H.

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Hi Anthony! The Kodak website would be a good place to start for info. Here's a URL on HC-110: http://kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.shtml

 

If you use Kodak B&W films, here's another URL:

http://kodak.com/cgi-bin/webCatalog.pl?category=Professional+Black-And-White+Films

 

Most of the films listed have characteristic curves in their technical data sheets a couple clicks away. I know that Ilford also has similar data but don't have a ready link to their site. Let me know if you need help understanding the curves!

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I believe the ratio is 2 120 rolls/32 oz. of HC-110 B. Compared to Kodak's formulas, you are slightly strong already because for a B dilution you would use 1:31. The diluiton isn't the question, its the ratio of film surface/developer volume. On that basis, I would limit the development to 1 220 roll/32 oz. @ dilution B.

 

I have been mixing from concentrate for 25 years [Tri-X] and am sold on it. Just be accurate, and consistent.

 

Don't know about curves, just pictoral results.

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Bill, thanks for the links. I will probably have questions about what the curves mean.

 

Alec, I thought 28:1 gave me a B solution, so my math must be mixed up, which does not surprise me. I'm not even sure how I got to the 28:1 anymore, but someone else told me 31:1 was the right ration for B, so I think I will change and increase my time slightly.

 

But my question is this. What if I want to develope two rolls of 220 at once for purposes of time efficiency? Would I double the developer strength, to mabye 30:2? And would everything else be the same? what about the fix? Thanks.

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Anthony, I use HC110 all the time diluted 1:31 for 120 and 220 film. I do not add time or compensate in any way for the extra film in the tank. HC110 is active enough to get the job done.

 

As for film curves-- for me the proof is in the picture, not the graph. Frank

 

PS: Why doesn't Kodak get it together and make TMAX 400-220?

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Frank, thanks! I agree with you about tmax, subject of course to my learning how to load 220 correctly in the first place! what kind of reels do you use for 220? i am using hewes. i wonder if should try something else or just need more practice.

 

btw, do you use the hc-110 with tmax? i have only recently started using tmax, on the theory (not born out yet) that it should give better separation of low (dark) values, and thus print with better shadow detail than the tri-x. does that sound correct? and is it really good to use the hc-110 instead of the tmax (or some other) developer with the tmax film?

 

thanks!

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The characteristic curves for Ilford can be found on the Ilford web site:

 

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/homeng.html

 

And for Agfa it can be found at the agfa site:

 

http://www.agfaphoto.com/

 

Look at the products .. select film .. and look at the data sheets. Lots of information there.

 

It is difficult to compare films from various manufactures. For one thing some manufacturs (like Ilford) just give you "relitive log exposure" on the x axis. That is they don't give you quanitive lux-seconds values, just relitive values. Seems like many manufactures (including Kodak) don't show the sholder of the curve so it is hard to asses the exposure latitude of the film as well.

 

One other site that has been noted before on this forum is darkroom innovations. They provide a service that will give you the characteristc curve for the film and development process you are using. This may prove useful for you if you reall care about the curve you are getting from your film and development process, and wish to control it in the future.

 

http://www.darkroom-innovations.com/

 

As to your first question. I am not sure for HC-110. But for Agfa chemicals that can process more than one roll they say that development time should not be changed when developing more than one roll at a time. The do indicate that if the rolls are developed sequentially that time should be increased about 10% (500ml developer and one roll). For 5000ml they say time should not be increased until the 10th roll. But they do explicitly say that time should not be changed if several films are simultaneously processed in one batch. (see Agaf chemicals page 4 of this document:)

 

http://www.agfaphoto.com/library/datasheet/pdf/chemicals/p16c-e.pdf

 

Hope this helps

 

Ken

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Anthony, Rolling 220 is certainly the downside of the experience. I use plastic reels with big tongues and stainless ball bearings. I use them in Patterson tanks, but I think they are made by Kinderman. I use Patterson reels also, but I can't give them a glowing report. I don't think that I've used the Hewes reels, but at this point my film developing is a mix and match system.

 

I didn't know about the emulsion thickness of the Tmax films as being the reason for no 220 (previous response). I use Delta in 220, but am not overly impressed. I like it because it is less grainy than TriX or HP5, but I believe that the traditional formulations give me better mid tones and shadow detail.

 

I base my film selection on how big I plan on enlarging the results. If I know I want to go up to 40X50", I'll go with Delta. If I want beautiful 16X20's, HP5 sure is nice to work with. Frank

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The correct dilution for HC-110 'B' is 1:31.

 

While I'll agree that liquid developers are far preferable to commercial powder mixes, I've never thought much of HC-110 other than it being an all purpose "appliance" developer that is popular only because it is cheap. HC-110 is very flexible, and works well with a huge variety of films. However, HC-110 does nothing great with any one film.

 

For the TMAX films Xtol or Tmax developer will give more speed, finer grain, and far less highlight blocking, especially with TMAX-100 which I woulnd't touch with HC-110 unless it was diluted at 1:50 or 1:75.

 

As for switching to 220 rolls with the same amount of developer I'd agree that processing only 1-roll at a time is the best way to go to avoid exhausted developer issues. Otherwise, increasing development time 25% would work for starters.

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Anthony while I'm less than a fan of Tmax 100 or 400, the very best results I have from those films has been with HC 110. I found it to be excellent with the T grain film, very good tonality, very good sharpness and no problems at all with highlights and here in Australia highlight burnout can be a serious problem. I found a reduction of about 5% reduction in development was all I need to control the highlights. Oh and if you want hassles with processing use Xtol, a large number of post on this and other digest and NG's have identified problems with water quality and dilution rates of developer. If HC110 is working for you go with it.
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In reference to the above I'll give a sample: Pre-soak at 75*, T-Max 400 shot at 400 ISO, HC 110 at 1:62, 75*, 10 minute development time, agitate only once every 2 minutes, and use a water only "stop bath." This methods reduces high contrast levels with T-Max 400 and give a long tonal scale. Run a test first. The full data and rationale is in the site listed above.
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