Sell GH4 and buy better lenses for the 600D ?

<p>Hey there,<br>

I bought the GH4 2 years ago as an upgrade to the 600D and got a cheap adaptor so I could use my Canon glass on it : 18-55, 50 1.8, 55-250 and a sigma 8-16, but the thing is that with the cheap adaptor I can`t control aperture, stabilization and focus, plus the crop factor.<br>

For various reasons I didn`t get to use the GH4 much, and the few times I did this was my workflow : try and be as steady as possible (footage came out shaky anyway), if I wanted to change aperture I would have to take off the lens, put it on the 600D, change aperture and then put it back on the GH4, then downgrade the 4K to 1080p (my pc can`t handle 4k).<br>

This summer I want to make a full feature film, and I`m wondering if I should sell the GH4 and get some faster lenses for the 600D (for the film look), or keep the GH4 and invest in a 600€ Speedbooster, which would make the 4/3 a 35mm, and give me control over my Canon lenses.<br>

What are your thoughts ?<br>

Thanks a bunch</p>

<p>My advice would be to keep the GH4 and either:</p>

<p>1. Begin to acquire some inexpensive "fast" lenses in micro four thirds. A good place to watch for them is the buy sell forum on mu-43.com. I started out with a Lumix 14mm f2.5 (saw one advertised for $225 there), a Lumix 20mm f1.7 (I've seen those for $200 - $280), and an Olympus m.Zuiko 45mm f1.8 (saw one adv the other day for $200 - my 45mm will probably be listed there for $220 soon). Those three will get you started for fairly reasonable cost.</p>

<p>2. Go the Speedbooster route. It does NOT make your m4/3 into a 35mm FOV camera. It does reduce the lens focal length by 0.71x, your 50mm f1.8 effective focal length would be 35.5mm. Then because your sensor has a "crop factor" of 2 (on the GH4) multiplying your 35.5mm focal length by that would give you the same FOV as a 71mm lens on full frame 35mm film. And of course each f-stop would be 1 stop brighter.</p>

<p>This would work better for you if you had a few prime lenses such as the EF24mm f2.8. And I'm not sure how the zoom lenses you have would work for you with the speedbooster. I have the RJ clone of the Speedbooster in Nikon F to m4/3 mount and have found a few inexpensive lenses on ebay, the 24mm Nikkor f2.8, 50mm Nikkor f1.4, Vivitar 135mm f2.8, and the Micro Nikkor 55mm f3.5 (which I use mainly for macro work). The 24 and 50 work well with the RJ unit.</p>

<p>So I think you would be better off going for a few "native" m4/3 lenses. I would keep the 600D and Canon lenses for now as something you could keep working with while you got the GH4 setup and working well for you. There is a period of adjustment but I love the sharpness of the GH4 with native m4/3 lenses.<br>

<br />Good luck.</p><div>[ATTACH=full]839926[/ATTACH]</div>

<p>Some more thoughts on going with "native" m4/3 lenses. I had Canon T3i and 7D bodies with the two "kit" lenses you have plus the EF 24mm f2.8, EF 28mm f1.8, EF 50mm f1.8 and 2 "L" series lenses: The EF 17-40mm f4 and EF 70-200 f4. I was kind of trying out m4/3 with an older model Olympus Pen E-PL1 and had the Lumix 14mm f2.5 and the 20mm f1.7 when I stumbled across Bruce Dale's "Summer Morning" (

<p>The beautiful skin tones (I'm a retired portrait photographer) and crisp detail stunned me, I loved the look, put my Canon stuff (as good as it was) up for sale and never looked back. At age 77 one benefit of going with the GH2's and "native" lenses was tremendous lightening of the weight I was carrying around in the bag. The GH3 and GH4 got a bit bigger and heavier but the IQ just kept on improving.</p>

<p>I mainly work with the GH4 and G7 in 4K, edit on a 4K timeline, save the project as 4K (never know when you may have to come back to it), and then render out to 1080p and that's the nicest looking 1080p you'll see. So in your case I'd keep the GH4 and as a first native lens I'd go for the Lumix 20mm f1.7, the new Lumix 25mm f1.7, or Olympus m.Zuiko 25mm f1.8. The 20 is what I'd call "wide normal" (and some feel the autofocus is slow but that never bothers me), the 25's are "normal" for the m4/3 format. Next I'd go for the Lumix 14mm f2.5 and either the Oly 45mm f1.8 or the Lumix 42.5mm f1.7 (has OIS).</p>

<p>With those 3 you can do a lot of video/motion picture work for awhile. At some point you will likely need to upgrade to a more powerful PC. I'm using a Dell right now from the Dell outlet "refurb, scratch 'n dent", has a 4th generation Intel Core i7 processor that seems to move right along. I also had to upgrade editing software, I've used Pinnacle Studio since and unnumbered version that came with a "firewire" card I had to put in the PC. I'm on version 18.5 now and about to go for 19.</p>

<p>So I suggest one of the "normal" lenses for the GH4 and start shooting a lot of test footage aiming for the look you want in that "feature". I'm having best look with the NATURAL profile and I like what I've seen with PORTRAIT profile on folks' skin tones. I hope what I've laid out here is some help to you. Canon, Nikon, Sony and others are coming out with 4K gear, you've got a great tool in that GH4, have fun with it.</p>