First time out with camera; results disappointing.

<p>Canon EOS Rebel T6s 18-135 IS STM lens and a 1.2 ND filter<br>

ISO 100<br>

4.5 F-stop<br>

1/15 sec<br>

auto focus<br>

Cloudy but bright sky<br>

My first time out with a camera (not counting the iPhone). I wanted to experiment and learn what I could about using manual settings.<br>

I had a goal other than just learning about the camera, I wanted, using manual settings, to get a picture of a bench that 1) filled the frame, 2) was in clear, sharp, detail while 3) everything in the background was blurry or out of focus and 4) I wanted an exposure that was balanced between light and dark. Composition was simple, a bench in the snow.<br>

Well, composition was not so simple and I'm a little distressed that I didn't recognize how cluttered the frame looked with the trellis. I'm going to need a few more years to get composition. I should have found a spot where the trellis was out of frame or just removed it.<br>

I took 83 shots in all of about every combination of ISO, Shutter speed, and lens opening I thought was interesting. Most were taken with the filter. I thought it might be a good idea to see what I could do with the filter off so I took more that way. I learned more about how the three setting work together and was surprised to find out the "live view" actually shows me if the frame will be washed out, too dark or otherwise is unusable. Too bad it doesn't have a warning flash that you need to remove the trellis before taking the shot.<br>

I also learned the camera has limitations. The aperture would not go lower than 4.5, the ISO would not go below 100, but the shutter speed seemed to do about anything I wanted. I tried one that must have held the shutter open for 2 minutes. LOL<br>

If I want a shallow DoF, and can't set the ISO lower than 100, what else can be done other than a ND filter? Is shutter speed the only way to control the picture in this situation? I ended up with a lighter picture than I wanted.<br>

The net results were in the pitiful category. I did get a picture of a bench (about 80 of them actually) I got some bench detail and some blurring of the trees behind. That's about the best I can say.<br>

Classes start in February for me. I would appreciate it if you don't boot me out before I can at least take a few classes.<br>

<br />One last thing.... I had a heck of a good time at my first ever photo shoot. I should have turned the camera around and taken a selfie because I was grinning ear to ear the whole time.<br>

I'll see if I can get a picture loaded here.... ah won't work. I don't have a server that I can post from but in reality what I took would probably just scare you anyway; you might think I was the anti-photographer incarnate. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>There is some good stuff on photo.net under the Learning tab. For example http://www.photo.net/learn/basic-photo-tips/aperture-shutterspeed-iso/</p>

<p>To get the bench sharp and the background out of focus, the only thing that will matter is the f stop of the lens - it needs to be as low (open) as possible. Depth of field tends to appear greater with a wide angle lens, so your best hope would have been using the telephoto (135mm) end of the lens at the widest stop, which would be f/5.6. You then set a speed and ISO, taking care not to let white snow fool the camera meter, which is set assuming your picture averages about 12% gray.<br>

All the ND filter is doing is slowing the shutter speed. You usually only need it on really bright days.<br>

Yes, you need to look at all your corners as well as at the subject.<br>

Isn't digital wonderful though - in the old days your shoot would have used about 3 x 36 exposure rolls of film and cost you quite a bit for processing. Digital gives you instant feedback.</p>

 

<p>From a learning standpoint, your early results confirm that you are trying to bite off too many variables at once. First, if you have a camera manual, READ IT at least 2-3 times. If you don't have one, get one! Few people bother to read their manual and then wonder why things seem wonky. Next, put that ND filter aside until you have a handle on exposure and the relationship among shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Try to remember that it is very difficult to get a sharp picture handheld when you have a shutter speed less than 1/100 until you practice and build up the necessary muscles and proper breathing. The old adage of not using a shutter speed of less than 1/the focal length of the lens....although most people find, especially with longer focal lengths, that they really need to modify that to 1/(2x the focal length of the lens). In a series of tests conducted by Erwin Puts for Leica, he found camera shake in all handheld shots, of all participants, below 1/500, although it became less noticeable as one approached that speed. For focusing, make sure you adjust the eyepiece diopter, if you have one. to your eyesight. Once you get the basics down, everything will begin to fall into place. Enjoy your camera.</p>

<p>Gary,</p>

<p>Don't beat yourself up too badly. You're learning, and that's the main thing. Eventually you will figure all this out.Be patient, take the classes, and keep shooting!</p>

<p>By the way, you noted that the camera had an aperture limitation. Not really, it's the lens you currently have that has that limitation. Lenses vary as far as maximum aperture - some of the more expensive lenses open up to f1.4 or even f1.2.</p>

<p>As was mentioned, set the ND filter aside for now. The aperture limit is a function of the lens you have, not the camera. To achieve your desired blur try different focal lengths on your zoom lens (it goes from 18 to 135 mm) but keep your aperture pegged at the widest (f 4.5). Yes, learning to recognize the clutter in the scene is a skill that will come with time--it is great that you learned this so early in your endeavors! </p>

<p>So many of the images posted here on photo.net are so staggeringly good that it can be disheartening for those of us who just aren't that skilled. I've been shooting semi-regularly for years, and virtually none of my stuff even approaches the technical or aesthetic quality of the work of, say, Louis Meluso or Rick Drawbridge, to name but two of the talented photographers here.</p>

<p>But I keep shooting (and learning) nonetheless, because I love engaging in the art of photography.</p>

<p>Gary, congratulations on your first excursion! The comments above pretty much cover your issues, except the part where your wife wonders what you've been up to when you come home with that s**t eating grin. To echo some of the above: Adding a filter is probably a bit more complexity than you need to bite off immediately. Do go into the Learning area and do a few exercises. If we were on a play date with our cameras, I would have you put it in Aperture Priority mode on ISO 100, and just experiment with the effects of various aperture settings. Leave everything else alone, pick a subject (like your bench), and then play with every angle at every aperture setting. The camera will set the shutter speed for you. Make sure Auto ISO is turned off (if applicable). Then, start comparing the effects of each aperture setting on the various compositions. If you keep the focus point consistent you will readily see the effects.</p>

<p>Most of us old film shooters started out with aperture priority, which was the most common "automatic" setting in the olden days (can you hear my joints creaking?). When you have this one figured out and can obtain predictable results, then move on to shutter priority and then full manual settings. Post some samples for discussion when you can, even if you think they stink. Keep it up and have fun.</p>

<p>Mark quite nailed it; too much quality on this site - the trick is indeed to avoid feeling disheartened, but instead take those great photos as learning material. What is it they manage to do that I somehow can't get done? It's a journey, and frankly, I don't care where I'm going exactly, as long as I keep going.</p>

<p>In case you do not have it, consider getting the book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Edition-Photographs/dp/0817439390">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a>. It covers the basics of exposing in a clear and straightforward way, and in my view, it remains a good book to go back to basics - even when you already know quite well what it explains. The learning section on this site mentioned above works well too, but sometimes a book is just a more relaxed way of learning.</p>

<p>As others mentioned, don't try to take in too many variables at the same time.<br>

Many courses advice to shoot manual only to learn properly. I am not of that school. Av/A and Tv/S mode on your camera are perfectly fine ways to discover the effects of shutterspeed resp. aperture. They'll safeguard to overexposure and underexposure, which in turns gives you an idea of lightlevels and where exposures more or less end up. Manual (using the camera meter reading) in the end does the same, but it requires you to spin a control much more - I don't quite get what the learning value is of operating a button/wheel. The point is understanding what shutter speed, aperture and ISO do to your final image.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If I want a shallow DoF, and can't set the ISO lower than 100, what else can be done other than a ND filter? Is shutter speed the only way to control the picture in this situation?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Personally, I think the ND filter is the emergency solution after I ran out of shutterspeed. In bright sunlight, at ISO100, you hit the maximum shutterspeed of your camera (1/4000th probably, not sure for your camera) at some point - after that, you put on the ND. I try to avoid filters when I can, so only mount them when I really really need them. So, as other said, work without the ND filter to make things simpler. Another point with the ND filter is: if you leave it mounted, AF will start to struggle, and your viewfinder will be too dim for good manual focussing. If you remove it and put it back for each shot, you need to calculate/correct its filter factor each time, which gets tedious. So, you're on the right path of learning, and most important, you're having fun. Keep things easy on yourself, so that the fun stays and the learning goes ahead full steam.<br>

And those good photos will come, one day. Or at least, that's what I keep telling myself :-)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"If I want a shallow DoF, and can't set the ISO lower than 100, what else can be done other than a ND filter? Is shutter speed the only way to control the picture in this situation?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>To attain the <strong>shallowest</strong> Depth of Field for any given Subject (for example a portrait of a person with scenery behind them) using that particular Lens and Camera you should use the Lens at the Widest Focal Length (between 18mm and 22mm) to enable you to use the Largest Aperture available (F/3.5).</p>

<p>You will need to FRAME the subject tightly (i.e. you need to be close to them) so for example an "Half Shot" (i.e. from the waist up) would be a good idea.</p>

<p><strong>"Cloudy but bright sky"</strong> is about EV = 14, so the correct exposure for the bright side of the Subject's face would be about F/11 @ 1/100s @ ISO100. (using the "F/16 Rule").</p>

<p>That exposure equates to F/3.5 @ 1/1000s @ ISO100, thus no need for an ND Filter.</p>

<p>An issue with using the wide angle end of any <em>varying maximum aperture zoom lens -</em> so to use the largest aperture of the lens, is: as we move closer to the Subject to Frame tighter we can get disproportionate shapes (for example the nose can appear too large for the face) - so sometimes, for example if we want a very tight head shot, we might choose to use that particular Lens at about FL = 35mm to 45mm and sacrifice the maximum aperture to be F/4 or F/4.5.</p>

<p>Typical of those lenses, you will have about F/3.5 available from 18mm to about 22mm; then F/4 to about 35mm then F/4.5 to about 50mm and from about 75mm, you will have F/5.6.</p>

<p>The <strong>type</strong> of background blur (or BOKEH) is different to the amount of DoF - so you will generally find to 'enhance' the background blur you will need get the SUBEJCT to BACKGOUND distance, much greater than the CAMERA to SUBJECT distance. Five time greater is a good staring point.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Most experienced togs use A mode most of the time as it gets them the results. I use Manual once in a blue moon, after decades of it being the only mode available I welcome digital automation.<br /> You have plenty of tips above but simply just play with one control variable at a time. and watch what the automatics are picking for you as you change one variable .. probably as you take half trigger.<br /> PS. I never bother about out of focus backgrounds as it is so easy to do this in editing when needed. The main problem is having enough depth of field as one goes up in sensor size as in your case from cellphone.</p>

<p>Some good points above. To summarise:<br>

1) Do not spurn the "P" setting. In this setting it should be possible to scroll through all available aperture/shutter speed combinations from high speed + large aperture to slow speed + small aperture and thus get differential focus. With an abnormal subject such as snow you might have to dial in some exposure compensation (around + 2 stops), you can easily fine-tune this via your screen display.<br>

2) Try to talk about "small" (high number) and "large" (low number) apertures. Saying "high" and "low" is confusing.<br>

3) Be aware that normal photographic practice for handheld work is to use a shutter speed at least as fast as the reciprocal of the lens focal length. This means 1/50 (use 1/60) or faster with a 50 mm lens, 1/135 (use 1/250) with 135 mm, etc. With IS you can go 2 speeds lower if absolutely necessary but I wouldn't count on it as standard.<br>

4) Be aware that ND filters are rather specialised items. As pointed out above, you will be able to use maximum aperture in daylight with most subjects and an appropriately high shutter speed, you will only really need an ND filter if you want an abnormally slow shutter speed, e.g. to blur the water in a waterfall, even then a 1.2 ND filter (4 stops) is very strong, may interfere with your autofocus and may cause a color cast. A 0.6 filter (2 stops) is more useful, as is a 0.6 graduated ND filter, particularly for landscapes including sky and shot around sunrise or sunset.<br>

5) It's always good to experiment, but sound practice is to change one variable at a time. Using P mode and letting the camera do the exposure will give you more time to think about esthetics and composition, change away from P only if you know that another mode will work better (one such case might be if you have the camera on a tripod and have selected a composition which means the camera metering pattern is not in the right place to work properly).</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Do not spurn the "P" setting. In this setting it should be possible to scroll through all available aperture/shutter speed combinations from high speed + large aperture to slow speed + small aperture and thus get differential focus. </p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

Canon refer to this functionality as “<strong>Program Shift</strong>”, those are the key words you can reference in your camera user manual.<br>

<br>

Whenever you rely on the Camera’s TTL Meter to advise you of a Shutter Speed and Aperture to use, it is important to understand the differences between the METERING MODES and also the general concept that the TTL Meter assumes that everything is “grey” – so for example in an expansive snow scene (which is white) it is common to get an underexposed image, because the TTL meter assumes that th snow is grey, not white. (see where David refers to "Exposure Compensation")<br>

<br>

It is good advice to change only one parameter when experimenting – to that end it would be good to use only ONE Metering Mode for this type of experimental learning: EVALUTIVE MODE is what I suggest that you use and seek to understand, initially.<br>

<br>

WW </p>

<blockquote>

<p>If I want a shallow DoF, and can't set the ISO lower than 100, what else can be done other than a ND filter? Is shutter speed the only way to control the picture in this situation? I ended up with a lighter picture than I wanted.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes. You have only three controls: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Since you want a shallow DoF you will want a low f-number, i.e. 4.5 on your lens. Then you set the ISO to 100 and select the shutter speed that gives the correct exposure. This is how it works. You have to select two of the three, and adjust the third one to make the exposure correct (i.e. correct "brightness" of the image). If you ended up with a lighter picture than you wanted, then you could have used a shorter exposure time to make it darker. If your camera do not have a short enough exposure time for this, then it's time for using a ND filter to reduce the amount of light that enters the lens.</p>

<p>By the way: Being disappointed by the result is the first step to learn how to do it better. Study your images and find out what it is that you don't like with them. Learn from that and keep on shooting! ;-)</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>Hallo everyone. No body has mentioned that one word which does wonders when a person is learning "manual" photograph. TRIPOD For less than $30 on that wonderfull (?) electronic auction site a 72" model can be acquired. It will not be suitable for the 4x5 you might get later, but mine keep the 6x6 cameras rock steady in the field. Aloha, Bill</p><div></div>

<p>You can learn a lot more from a disappointment than a "success". My first results were woeful, trying to do something that's quite challenging even after 50 years of doing it.</p>

<p>Thank you all so much. Good tips and explanations, all of which can be used in my strategies for learning. More that one person has said, "Get out there and start shooting". So my attempt to do just that was to gather my stuff and go experiment. Now its time to focus on specifics.</p>

<p>I put the ND filter back in the bag and will work on only one variable for this practice session. I should have said originally that I do have a tripod and used it throughout the bench photos. I think David and others suggested starting with "aperture priority mode", so that's where I will begin. If I understand correctly, the camera will use automatic settings except for aperture which I will experiment with. Do I need to also set the ISO (100)? Or let the camera do that as well.</p>

<p>I have been reading sections of the manual, We'll see about a cover to cover read; it's nearly 500 pages. I'm also going to pay more attention to the corners of the frame. My goal aside from self education, is to take a photo I can at least attach. I imagine that help can be quite pointed if you have a photo to look at.</p>

<p>The next shoot will be the stump of a fallen tree. Its interesting because at the point of rotation the tree tore and folded instead of breaking off. Again, it's out back in the woods, which makes it a short trip from the house.</p>

<p>I was disappointed in the bench result but not discouraged from trying and will continue to do so. In my 60+ years I have had many opportunities to compare the outcomes of projects I spent time on and those I did not. Older people know, anything worthwhile takes time.</p>

<p>I appreciate all this help. I am impressed that in this field, people are so willing to share and educate beginners. Not one of the several people I have talked to or communicated with, have been anything but as helpful and involved as they can be.</p>

<p>Gary and a question. In Bill's shot above, why do my eyes trick me into thinking the clouds are moving left to right?</p>

<p>Gary, just from my own point of view: It is a more effective learning experience if you minimize the variables. If your camera has an "auto ISO" setting, in Aperture Priority mode it can choose to vary the ISO along with shutter speed for any given exposure condition. Fixing the ISO at a given setting will remove this variable. Your images will range more in overall exposure, to the degree that shutter speed is unable to fully adjust for any given aperture setting. But, since this is a learning exercise, that will be good, as you will be able to go back, examine the EXIF data, and readily determine why an image appears over- or under-exposed, in or out of the field of focus. If your subject is poorly lit, you will be free to change the ISO to a setting other than 100 to put it in range of your other controls. The intent, again, is to keep things in a place where you can easily evaluate each image and the impact your settings have on the results.</p>

<p>My suggestion for an exercise, which you can vary as you wish:<br /> 1. Set camera on Aperture Priority.<br /> 2. Set Auto ISO to "off".<br /> 3. Set ISO to 100.<br /> 4. Set auto focus to "single point focus".<br /> 5. Set light meter to "matrix" or equivalent.<br /> 6. Focusing each frame on the same point, and staying at the same focal length, make a series of images, progressing through the range of aperture settings.<br /> 7. Change ISO to an alternate setting, such as 200, or 400.<br /> 8. Repeat #6.<br /> 9. Change focal length, then repeat #6.<br /> 10. Change position, particularly for differing focal lengths, re-frame, and repeat #6-#9.</p>

<p>The goal here is for you to see the relationships between ISO, depth of field, and shutter speed for any given set of exposure conditions. This also will allow you to see how focal length impacts perceived depth of field. I recommend starting at 35mm as a baseline (this is equivalent to a 56mm prime lens), and then working through the process at 18mm, 70mm, and 135mm. These four focal lengths will give you a useful cross section of your lens/camera performance. ISO progression might be in full EV (exposure value) steps, such as 100, 200, 400, and 800 ISO. Remember to maintain the same focus point and lighting in each series in order to see the impacts of your settings most clearly. Then come back and tell us about it. Have fun.</p>