Film Slitter King-Jimmy Li film slitter for 15.2mm and 9.25mm film

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028336-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="482" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028337-md.jpg" alt="" width="604" height="679" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028338-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="472" /><br>

 

 

<p>Jimmy Li( jimmy101surfer@yahoo.com )Roller cutter fo 15.2mm+9.25mm side view/side view/top view</p>

 

Stainless steel body and roller. <br>

 

High precision stainless steel rollers ( diameter=12mm)<br>

 

Aluminium crank<br>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028339-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="297" />

 

 

<p>Jimmy Li 15.2mm+9.25mm roller cutter output two strips of film? one 15.2mm for 16mm subminature cameras, one 9.25mm for Minox<br>

 

 

The following photo is a test cut of a piece of 15cm long 135 film</p>

 

 

It takes the roller crank 4 turns to cut through.

<p>Cut 36 exp film.<br>

Kodak 36 exposure film has a length of 65.5 inch, that is 1631mm.<br>

The stainless steel roller has a diameter =12mm, its circumference=37.7mm<br>

Hence for a roll of 36 exposure film, you need to turn the roller crank 44 times, when you count up that number, the film is cut to the end. You feel no tension, so the counting turns is important in the dark. A roller with crank is convenient for counting turns, with knob, it is not easy to count turns.</p>

 

 

A roll of 36 exp film yields two rolls of 28 exposure 16mm unperforated film

 

plus two rolls of 42 exposure minox film.

 

(or two rolls of 36 exp Minox film plus one roll of 16 exp Minox film)

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028341-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="548" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028342-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="418" />How to prevent cut film strips from curling back into the roller</p>

<p>User can device your own method to prevent curling back. either by use a paper clip the clip the end of film, such that it is dangling down and cannot curl back.</p>

<p>I use a paper box with a slot , such that the roller cutter sits on top of the slot, cut film strips pass through the slot into the box, and never curl back</p>

<p>Cut 24 exposure film</p>

<p>24 exp film has a length of approximately 1175mm, you need to turn the roller crank 29 turns<br>

to cut film to the end.</p>

<p>r<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18007959-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="569" /><br>

Roller cutter for Minox film, top view</p>

<p> </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18007958-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="515" /><br>

Roller cutter for Minox film, side view</p>

 

 

IMO, the the turn knob is not as convenient as a turn crank, you can easily count how many turns to get the length of film you want in total darkness; with a winding knob, it is not as easy to count turns, you need a stick of required length to get the film length you want in total darkness.

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18028331-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="399" /><br>

Test cut</p>

 

<p>My Minox film roller cutter has winding knob, the 16mm + Minox film roller cutter has<br>

both a winding crank and optional knob, I prefer the crank, it is easier to count turns<br>

in darkroom.</p>

<p>Those look very professional, although I would imagine expensive to make. In just in the last couple of months I bought a IIIs, obtained film and modified a plastic reel to develop film. My home built film slitter is a traditional 'pull the film through the slot' type built with plywood and double edged razor blades. Not fancy but it produces two clean 9.2mm strips of film from 35mm with smooth edges and even width. The emulsion side touches nothing and the base side is sliding on a polished surface. So far I have seen no evidence of scratches. The next stem will be to stitch up Clear File sheets made for 120 negs into four 16mm wide slots for the developed negatives.</p>

<p>This has been an interesting journey so far and I'm eager to see what T grain B&W film can do in this camera. So far my first roll of Ilford Pen F looks promising. </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18029121-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="378" /><br>

Jimmy Li's knife block film slitter</p>

 

<p>The Jimmy Li's knife block slitter is solidly built and works silky smooth. It has several advantages over the orginal Minox/Acmel slitter:</p>

<p>1)Interchangeable knife blocks for two 9.2mm film strips or 16mm+9.2mm strips<br>

2)You can change the knife blades yourself, by removing four hex screws , remove the old<br>

blades and replace it with new box cutter knife blades.<br>

3)You need press down the knife block at the beginning, once the knives pierce through the film, you can use the left and right screws to tighten the knife block then start turning the crank<br>

4) The distance between the take up spool is shorter in Jimmy Li model then Minox slitter, hence less waiste</p>

<p>https://www.flickr.com/photos/minox-leica/</p>

 

jimmy101surfer@yahoo.com

<p>Compare with Minox/Acmel slitter, the JL slitters have clear advantage:</p>

<p>Minox/Acmel slitter has too many plastic parts<br>

The turning crank, turning knob, turn spindle, take up spool , the two guard rails and the knife assembly<br>

except the turning knob, are all essential parts, yet all made of plastic. Plastic parts may crack due to age.<br>

One the other hand, the turning crank, turning knob, turn spindle, take up spool , and the knife assembly of JL slitter are all made of metal; only three screw knobs are plastic, which are non-essential parts, and easily replaceable with common parts from hardware store.<br>

I am certain, the JL knife slitter will outlast the Minox/Acmel slitter.</p>

 

 

IMO, JL slitter is superior

<p>Jimmy Li has some good stuff. I recently bought some Minox Film Wallets from him. Made pretty much like the originals and work great. I would recommend them for storing Minox negatives.</p>