Help on deciding a first timer Hasselblad

<p>What does in-leaf shutter mean?</p>

<p>Also if I´m not using flash or need an inbuilt meter, what is the practical difference of getting a<br>

500C, 500 C/M, 501 C/M or the 503 CW.</p>

<p>I have looked and read here<br>

http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/Hasselblad500.html<br>

but still feel a bit unsure as of what is recommended.<br>

I guess this is a preference<br>

501 C/M<br>

500 C/M<br>

503 C/W<br>

from what I read they don´t recommend getting a 500 C.<br>

Also I want to be able to use a longer lens, not sure if it is such a drag to see the vignetting (apparently the 501 C/W and 503 CW the mirror is larger.<br>

Is it for all lenses larger than 80 mm (I have read conflicting lengths).</p>

<p>I am planning to shoot landscape and portrait, still life. I would use a tripod in many cases, but I also want to be able to use it handheld, if the lighting conditions allow. I will only use it with film.<br>

I don´t really like heavy cameras, which is why I prefer Hasselblad to Pentax or Mamiya which in my opinion are so clumsy somehow. i have a Rolleiflex T, but I am finding myself restrict to just one lens, so I am looking into purchasing a Hasselblad.<br>

Also do you know of any dealers in Europe. Or do most of you purchase on *bay.</p>

 

 

<p>I've always found this site good to get a concise history of the different models:</p>

<p>http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx</p>

<p>Unfortunately the site has been loading very slowly in the last year or so, it's probably no longer maintained. If you are patient, it still loads up.</p>

<p>As for the vignetting, it is only in the view finder, it does not affect the actual picture. If vignetting on the top of the screen when viewing with longer lenses (~150mm and up) bothers you, then get a model with the larger mirror (called GMS - Gliding Mirror System).</p>

<p>Hundreds and even thousands of we Hasse users may have never gone beyond the 500CM and did not suffer the least problem with the tiny bit of vignetting. In fact, I have actually never even noticed it while on any of my shoots. I've used the CM cameras since 1973 so that's quite a long time to have never seen it's effects while viewing. That's my situation even with the huge 500mm Tele Tessar which would be the worst for vignetting.</p>

<p>IF you ae going to notice it, I would expect that to only happen while shooting high key (very light background where the top of the frame might show the shade of the cut off.<br>

<br />The 500C does not have an interchangeable focus screen as do all the rest and due to it's age, is much more likely to have problems finding repair parts if needed. Same with the C series lenses, although I own and love using 4 of those to 2 of the CF lenses. </p>

<p>Personally, the lack of screen interchangeability worries me far more than potential repair problems.</p>

<p>I suggest you call or email KEH in the US and talk to their repair department for their opinion between bodies and the availability of parts. They have been extremely helpful to me including having to machine a major component of the 500mm C lens's shutter housing when it fractured. It has now worked flawlessly for about five years with the part they made.</p>

At this point if I was just getting in I would get the newer versions with the floating mirror. 501CM, 503CW. There is also a

501C that had a limited run and that did not have the floating mirror.

<p>The 501cm is probably the best choice, followed by the 500cm. While the 500cm has interchangeable viewing screens, the 501cm also has a "gliding" mirror, which doesn't cut off the viewfinder with longer lenses. The 503cw is more expensive (i.e., popular), and adds TTL flash exposure, which is only useful with a few compatible flash units. It also can be used with a motor winder attachment, which I think is bulky and noisy.</p>

<p>For the added price of the 503cw, you could buy a good flash meter, which is far more useful than TTL control. You can buy a 555ELD with a built-in winder, faster, quieter (not that quiet), and more versatile, for less than a 503cw plus a winder. I like my 555ELD because it can be used with a digital back without a sync cable. It's a brick to carry, however.</p>

Whats interesting about the vignetting is even with the Hassy bodies like 503CW, when using the longer 350mm to their

500mm lenses you still get that vignetting, but it's better.

 

You asked - "What does in-leaf shutter mean?"

 

It simply means that the main shutter is built into the lens and also the body of the camera. Most 35mm and some medium

format cameras only use the shutters built into the body of the cameras. This can cause some problems. When using a

flash with a Hasselblad you can fire your flash at 1/500th of a second or less. With a medium format camera such as the

Pentax 6x7 most of the lenses don't have shutters built into them. You can only use the Pentax 6x7 body at a 1/30th of a

second, so that can really cause havoc when using a flash. However, we have to remember that Pentax makes a few

lenses with shutters built into them and you can use a much faster shutter speed.

 

You CAN change the screens out on the 500C body, but it's a pain. It can take hours to get the camera in focus,

because you have to adjust all 4 corner screws of the focusing screen. For that reason any of the other Hassy bodies

are a snap to change focusing screens, only takes about 30 seconds. You just drop them in!

 

My first choice by far would to buy the 503CW. If money is an issue, buy the 500CM. They made so many of these

bodies and the cost to replace one isn't very much.

 

There are very expensive Hassy metered prisms for the Blads and they work OK. However, I like the hand held flash

meters. I have 2 Minolta Flash Meter 4F unit's, but I don't think they make them anymore. Sekonic meters are very good.

Hopefully, I spelled that correctly! These flash meters come in handy if you are using a flash. They also work really well

when shooting with off camera flash units, such as side lighting flowers or something like that when doing your nature

work and portraits.

 

All of the Hasselblad lenses are really sweet. So buy with confidence. My least favorite lens was the 500mm, because

the F-stop started at F8. It did go to F64! Shooting at F64 was kind of cool! The lens is very long and you need a strong

tripod. The lens is very sharp. I didn't really have a favorite lens, because they are all so great. The most used lens was

the 80mm and the 60mm for nature work. I also really liked the 40mm for a really wide angle shot. For portraits the 150

and the 160mm lenses were amazing. When shooting close-up's of the faces of brides, the mothers, and the

grandparents, I often added the Hasselblad Softar 1 filter. The lenses are so sharp that I had to take that edge off by

using a soft filter. The Softar 1 filter, in my opinion, is the finest soft filter ever made. Hope this helps!

<blockquote>

<p>What does in-leaf shutter mean?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It's probably an accidental merging of two phrases - "in-lens shutter" and "leaf shutter" - which mean the same thing.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Also do you know of any dealers in Europe. Or do most of you purchase on *bay.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Ffordes in Scotland are very good for medium format. But if you're in a Eurozone country, the exchange rate against the GB£ is not great right now. It's swung even worse against the US$, which is why I no longer consider buying from KEH, who have been good for me in the past.</p>

<p>There's a Finnish shop - Kameratori.fi - which has lots of stuff, and at really reasonable prices too. I've bought from them and was happy with what I received.</p>

<p>Then there's ClassicCamera.se in Gothenburg. Also very reliable. I've also bought from them and was very pleased with the service. </p>

<p>Both of these ship internationally. </p>

<p>Naturally Leicashop in Vienna has a fairly large Hasselblad selection (among many other brands).</p>

<p>Here in the Netherlands there's a shop called Fotohandel Delfshaven which often has lots Hasselblad equipment, mainly lenses.</p>

<p>I prefer buying from a dealer with return privilege. It may cost a little bit more (but likely not much more) but it feels safer.</p>

<p>I ended up getting a 501 CM. The person has used it not too often, purchased it new, in april had it inspected by a local camera shop (the owner is an expert on hasselblad). And that guy said the camera is in top top condition (lens, body and back).<br />She paid for the inspection, and showed me the receipt.<br />She has used it in the past year, but not once a month.<br>

So hopefully it serves me for a long time, without the need of a CLA.<br>

Is there something I need to bear in mind?<br>

Like cocking the shutter before, bla bla bla.</p>

<p>Congrats on the 501CM. You'd probably want to read <a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/PDF/HasManuals/503CW.pdf">the manual</a>. In my own research (as a novice) on Hasselblad I found this site has lots of information (including <a href="/equipment/hasselblad/501cm-kit-blumenthal">this page</a>).</p>

Take some photo's and post a few. Then we can help fine tune your approach to medium format. The 501CM will bring you

lots of great images! Congrats!

 

As you take the photos you may have some questions, such as using a flash, camera brackets, good tripods, and much

more.

Good choice!

Welcome to the madness.