FE or FE2 over FG

<p>I used to have a working FG but now it is not functioning. Tried to get it fixed but didn't work.<br>

Now planning to buy a new Nikon camera, since I already have the 50mm nikon E series lens.<br>

So, FG is way cheaper compared to both FE and FE2. Those expensive ones have fast shutter speed up to 1/4000 compared to 1/1000 on FG and also they feature DOF preview, if I am not mistaken.<br>

Is this all or I am missing some other benefits of FE and FE2 over FG.<br>

Would you pay almost twice as much for FE or FE2 ? If so, why ?<br>

All these aside, can I use my E series Nikon lens with both FE and FE2 in aperture priority mode ? </p>

I have never owned an FG but I have the FE and FE2, and they are fine cameras. I am pretty sure the E lenses will

meter with either. The FE has the nice feature that it can meter with both AI and non-AI lenses, whereas the FE2 requires

AI lenses. I hope some of the more knowledgable folks here will either confirm or correct this post.

<p>My choice would be the FM or FM2 because no electronic used, except the light-meter. And that part which I don't like on the FM cameras, only. Small thing. It is the led light-meter indicator compare to my preference, the FE or FE2, which is an analog pointer, and I'm more comfortable with it. Personal preference. For you, wanted to use the camera on "A" aperture priority, it is the <strong>FE2 positively.</strong> ( the only problem today, the FE, FE2 has an electronic controled shuter. !? ) It is a very solid build camera and easy to repair, plenty of spare parts available. Small and easy to use, lots of lenses AI and AI-S available with very reasonable prices, and you can use any of modern AF lenses which have the aperture ring and not a "G" lens, in manual focus mode. I used them many, many years, all of them, FM and FE, then FM2 and FE2, from the begining, without ever having problem and still using them to day. All of them have a motor winder atached to it, and whith it, excellent handling, the camera to small for my hand. Most of the FG electronic and by now, most of them is dead. </p>

If you google "Nikon FE", there is a good wiki article that pretty much agrees with. One must use stop down metering

with non-AI lenses.

<p>I might pick an FE2 if my intention was to use flash indoors - The older models don't support TTL metering. - for manual flash outdoors the FE2 offers faster sync speed: 1/250 sec.<br>

I don't use Nikon (yet) and am not intended to shoot film with them, but I totally agree with Bela that the all mechanical FM2 would be the safer bet and it isn't too hard to live without auto exposure. <br>

If you aren't into flash photography and willing to gamble try another FG and find out when it falls apart. - I believe the older Nikkorex cameras are entirtely mechanical and inexpensive? - But I don't know their weaknesses / flaws.</p>

<p>I personally go with the FE. The FE2 is significantly more expensive and I don't need the benefit of the FE2. As far as the FG I wouldn't buy one.</p>

<p>Thanks for all replies.<br /> Have one question to reply of Straw man;<br /> Why does one have to use it with non-AI lenses ?<br /> Furthermore, is my E series a non-AI lens ?</p>

Dogs -the FE or FE2 are worth the difference

in price. Pick one of either up and handle it.

The build quality is far superior to the FG. Just

my opinion.

 

As for the difference between the two FEs,

others have covered above.

<p>Your E series lenses are all AIs lenses (for your purposes same as AI). Here is a link describing some of the E series characteristics. I've had the 50, 100 and 135 series E lenses and still have the 50 and 100 after many years, and attest to their capabilities. http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/</p>

<p>I recommend a Nikon n8008 over the FE/FE2/FG. Less expensive than the FE or FE2. US $ prices seem to be about the same as an FG. N8008 Uses 4 ubiquitous AA batteries. Reads the DX code. Small window to reveal film type. Motorwind, motorized rewind. 1/250 flash sync and 1/8000 top speed. High eyepoint viewfinder. Will not meter with pre-AI lenses, but neither does the FG or FE2. (The little tab doesn't flip out of the way.) The only difficult part is finding the split image screen for manual focus lenses. Spend a little more for the N8008s and you get spot metering! If you are left eye dominant, note that one turns on the meter on an FE2 by pulling the wind lever away from the body. Always felt like I was going to poke myself in the right eye even though I never did. FE does not have ttl flash metering.</p>

 

<p>Back "in the day" I had and used all three. Your series e lenses are all ais. They will work on the fe or fe-2. I preferred the FE and FE 2 over the FG. My favorite was and is the FE2. I liked the higher shutter speed and ttl flash. That having been said, the only film camera I still have besides an F2, is my FE2 with a 28 mm series e lens, a 50 mm series e and a 75-15 series e. All three of those lenses work on my d7000 by the way. But you will enjoy an FE or FE2 no matter which one you get. </p>

<p>For 'just' a series E 50mm lens, I wouldn't limit the choice for myself to Nikon cameras only. A 50mm lens of that kind costs fairly little, and (at least over here) Nikon cameras aren't the cheapest second hand. I love my FM2 (which wasn't much cheaper than a F3, another nice option is you want aperture-priority mode), but looking on eBay, there are better value for money cameras, which also benefit from lower prices for the lenses.<br>

Of course, if you are well invested into Nikon, then the FE makes a lot of sense, or with more budget a FM2 or F3.</p>

<p>The FG is a cheap, consumer grade camera. The FE2 is <em>miles</em> ahead of the FG in every respect and you can change focusing screens on it. It is also built considerably better as well. Spend the extra money, you will be glad you did. Don't piddle over a hundred bucks or so.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a name="00dMXU"></a><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=8706098">straw man</a>, Jun 27, 2015; 01:48 p.m.</p>

</blockquote>

<blockquote>

<p>The FE has the nice feature that it can meter with both AI and non-AI lenses, whereas the FE2 requires AI lenses. I hope some of the more knowledgable folks here will either confirm or correct this post.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You are indeed correct. The FE had the swing up meter coupling prong like the F3/F4/FT3. The FE2's is solid and does not swing up so you can use non-AI lenses without risking damaging the prong as it is made of plastic and not metal like the FE. But with AI and AIS lenses going for great prices today, I would not waste money on the old and very long in the tooth non-AI Nikkors.</p>

<p>Everyone says FE and FE2 are way better over FG. However, what I think when I am investing an analog camera is the following; What makes a good photo is the lens and the film. So, an FE, for example, would just let me reach to faster shutter speeds up to 1/4000. Other than that built quality or other features does not make sense, I think.<br>

Am I wrong ?</p>

<p>The FE2 and FM2N have 1/4000th, the FE and FM have 1/1000th. My shooting style does not include flash or high speed films, so the FE and FM are fine for me.</p>

<p>I was up on Mount Rainier yesterday with a Pentax that didn't have DOF preview. Boy, did I miss that. On that basis alone, I would make sure I had the FM/FE series over the FG, which someone above pointed out does not have it.</p>

<p>Also, I love that the FE's shutter speed dial goes all the way out to 8 seconds. I regularly use that.</p>

<p>@doga: we have not much idea what features you need or expect to use, or what you're going to use the camera for. On the one hand, you're right: lens and film makes the photo (assuming no additional features needed). But build quality is a big deal for 30-year old cameras (and you just had one break), and you asked if the FE/2 was worth the difference in price - the answer (mostly) here is that based on build quality alone they are worth the difference in price. If you don't care about that or the other features, by all means, get the cheapest you can find.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a name="00dMik"></a><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6771149">doga doga</a>, Jun 29, 2015; 09:04 a.m.</p>

</blockquote>

<blockquote>

<p>Everyone says FE and FE2 are way better over FG. However, what I think when I am investing an analog camera is the following; What makes a good photo is the lens and the film. So, an FE, for example, would just let me reach to faster shutter speeds up to 1/4000. Other than that built quality or other features does not make sense, I think.<br /> Am I wrong ?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Then to follow your line of reasoning, why not just get a used Nikon <em><strong>EM</strong></em> for $20?</p>

<p>EM only offers auto mode. So, when the metering thinks that you should need something faster than 1/1000, it won't let you take the photo. Likewise, sometimes it may say you need 1/10 under low light conditions, but you know that you would be okay even with 1/30, just for the sake of less blurry shot, and again it won't let you take a photo with your desired shutter speed. Oh and I already have an EM.</p>