Best Focus Screen for Nikon F

<p>This is about finding the best focus screen for the original Nikon F - "best" is however you define it for your application. For those of you who have experimented with Nikon F and F2 screens, as well as assemble other screens into the Nikon F focus screen box frame, I would be curious to hear of your best experiences in terms of better light, faster focusing, or more pleasant viewing - however you define it. </p>

<p>In my experiences: For wedding work I loved the "E", its etched H/V lines help create the needed symmetry this type of photography requires. The "E" also excels for architecture, landscapes etc.</p>

<p>That said, for everything else I love the garden variety "A" (and it's F2 cousin the "K") for the split image rangefinder. Even in low light focus snaps into place.</p>

<p>My favorite is diagonal split image center spot called model P, fits Nikons F and F2.</p>

<p>Agree with Steve, the E screen is my go to for the F body cameras. I need to find a couple of them now for some F2 bodies and would like a pair for my F4S bodies. I like the simple focus without the prism and the grid helps me avoid leaning everything to the left, a bad habit I've had all my life.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

<p>Funny, but I was never a fan of the split image, much preferring the microprism spot, or the all over matte screen on the early Nikons.<br>

Every one will have their favourite, so you may have to just try a couple to see what suits. Nikon made so many for special use such as long teles and wideangles, but if you are just using a 50mm or thereabouts most of the time, do check out the plain matte screen...you may be surprised.</p>

<p>I have a complete set of Nikon view screens (22 total) and a couple of Beattie screens for the Nikon F and F2.</p>

<p>When I was young with good eyesight, the best screen for me was the "B" screen for general shooting. As my eyesight failed, I found it easier to accurately focus with the “A” screen.</p>

<p>I use other screens when the circumstances warrant. For example, if I am doing a lot of 35mm architectural work, I will use the grid lines on the “E” or “R” screens.</p>

<p>For astrophotography, I prefer the “M” screen.</p>

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