Shooting 120 on a 116/616 format camera:

<p>Quick question to whomever may know what's going on: I recently had a few conversion adapters that allow you to shoot 120 on a 616 camera 3D printed that I could be able to use a few of my old Kodak folders. They do seem to work and shoot just fine, but for whatever reason, the exposures seem to be overlapping one another, and otherwise, double exposed. I did find it suspect that I was able to reach exposure 16 on the roll with both my Brownie 2a and Vigilant Six-16, and low and behold, when I developed my exposure, the images were all haywire. Anyone know what might be the cause of this? My hunch is that the numbering on the backing paper doesn't quite correlate to the size of the exposure the camera is capable of rendering. Just wanted some input.</p>

<p>Roll film cameras in general, in my experience with both West German and East German cameras, seem very sensitive to loading 'errors'. In most of them, I've found it is crucial to have strong tension on the film when loading.<br /> Of course, other variables such as different diameters of the reels, etc., may be even more important here.</p>

<p>Actually the problem is simple. 120 has numbers for three formats on the backing paper - none of which correlate to the formats of 116 cameras. <br /> To get no overlapping on a 116 film camera when using 120 you can only use every third number that appears. So you have to wind until number 3 appears in the red window, take your shot, and so on. If you want to get more shots and are ok with minimal overlapping you need to use every other number that appears in the window: 2,4,6 etc.</p>

I am dealing with a similar problem in adapting 35 mm film to Kodak bantam. Bantam format is 40 mm X 28mm and the

film travel between shots is 44 mm. I am in the final stage and have to decide how much I should a lot for each shot. If I

squeeze it to 40 mm I risk overlap but will get an extra picture. I guess that even with overlap I would still get a 38mm

wide shot that would be the same as 35mm which is 38X24 mm

<blockquote>

<p>same as 35mm which is 38X24 mm</p>

</blockquote>

<p>NBD, but -- Except for half-frame(single frame), some odd-ball point and shoots, and early Nikon RFs -- most perforated 35mm film since Leica has been shot at 3<em><strong>6</strong></em>mm by 24mm</p>

<p>My bad, now that I think about it again I should have said 36 X 24mm. All the better for me regarding overlap issue. Anyway, the shop where I get my film processed says he can easily give me negatives but his equipment for printing is set up for standard 35mm (as you said 36X24) and would be labor intensive for other formats so I will probably get negative and scan them myself. NBD but I wish I could keep my numbers straight.</p>

<p>What's 2mm between friends?<br>

see http://news.yahoo.com/comics/dilbert-1409981760-slideshow/ </p>

<p>"I'm Dick from the Internet. Everybody knows me" ;)</p>

<p>I do have a 616 camera and after reading Dave's comment, I think I will try a small variation. Start at 2, wind to 3 then count turns to #4 and turn 1/2 that number of turns more. This will be reasonably close to 4.5(take picture). Then next picture at #7 (again this will be reasonably close to 2.5 formats, take picture). Then wind to 8 Continue winding to 9 counting turns from 8 to 9 and proceed 1/2 the number of turns from 8 to 9 (again reasonable to 2.5 formats), then next picture at 12 (and so on). This should not have any overlap and squeeze an extra picture or two. </p>

Wow Don... if you can keep that in your head when you're in the field.. you will certainly make out. I think I

did the every third somewhat successfully and I found here another one based on the "Kodak" word

between certain numbers on the film that worked like explained but since forgotten .

<p>The way I presented It Probably made it sound more complicated than it is or has to be. Just trying to be as precise as possible in presenting it. Basically I want to have approximately a picture every 2.5 numbers. There should be a lot of tolerance in guessing that half but every 2nd picture you recalibrate. ie at #2,#7 and #12 etc. You do not have to count probably just stop somewhere in between to separate the photos.</p>