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An Early K.W. Pilot 6 and photos with it.


dave_g1

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<p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/16247359060_40d7505e1a.jpg" alt="" width="325" height="500" /><br>

I've always wanted a Pilot 6. It has a certain peculiarity to it - something between a box camera and a "real" SLR. Of course it is a real SLR in a technical sense, but in terms adjustments it is about on par with a cheap folder or a better specified box camera of the era.</p>

<p>The Pilot 6 was introduced in 1936 and initially available with an f/6.3 or f/4.5 lens. This is the fast 4.5 version! Shutter speeds from 1/20 to 1/150. A wire frame pulls out of the side for tracking sports action.<br>

<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/16239308037_78908a21bb_b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br>

The aperture is selected with a knob on the front of the camera. The selected f/stop is displayed by a little dial in front of the viewing hood. The f/stops are of a wacky progression, 18,12,9,7.7 etc. This makes setting exposure a little befuddling.<br>

<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/16425197165_956d409a8e_b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="713" /><br>

Real single lens reflex viewing on a camera that cost about the same as an Argus C3! The magnifier is built into a plat which swings up and makes the viewing hood shaded from the top - this is about the only way one can focus the camera when used outside. This is neither a condenser nor a fresnel to brighten things up.<br>

<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/16424268412_6e9285ec65_b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br>

The shutter is cocked by a large lever on the side of the camera. The shutter speeds are set with a strange tiller like double knob that has to be pushed down when setting the speed. The shutter is very primitive, speed is controlled by spring tension alone, and so a very strong spring is used. The mirror forms part of the shutter. When the shutter is released the mirror start swinging up, it uncovers the back of the lens and just behind the mirror is a metal sheet that is dragged behind it. As the mirror continues moving up this sheet covers the lens - cleverly the mirror just not stop moving until after the lens is covered again. At the end of its travel the mirror slaps with a "thapd!" sound like somebody slapping the cover of a hard bound book closed. One can feel the camera shake in their hands.<br>

That's how it works, so how about the results? See them in the next post.</p>

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<p><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8589/16563445311_c5f1b664ab_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="533" /><br /> The waist level finder allows a nice low POV. The rendering of this pre-war lens and medium format film is excellent in my opinion.<br /> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/15944922093_6d42148506_b.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Getting this shot took a little thinking ahead as once stopped down the viewfinder is not really useable - the setting is purely manual there is no preset function or even click stops. I had to set the camera, waited for the rower to be centered by my sight and took the photo "blind" with the camera.<br /> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/16377444568_eec4b9e58f_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="549" /><br /> The Ennatar 75mm lens has a minimum focus of just under 5' - so I needed to use a close up lens for anything closer. Despite close up work being an SLRs strong point, the simple front element focusing lenses are pretty much worthless for anything closer than 3.5 to 4 feet - and KW never specified unit focusing lenses for any of the Pilot 6 cameras.<br /> <img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8561/16455307739_041366419e_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="549" /></p>

<p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/16640062971_b5c998820c_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="549" /></p>

<p><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8594/16454089170_954969fdda_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="549" /></p>

<p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/16640479352_e7ebb39c61_b.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="549" /></p>

<p><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8674/16640479232_e97664926e_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Apparently all of the early Pilot 6 cameras took 16 photos on 120 film, and later a 12 photo version and dual format version were made. I have a later Pilot 6 that I have not used yet which shoots 12 6x6 frames on 120.<br /> I have a few more photos on <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/berangberang/">my flickr.</a><br /> I quite like the way the Ennatar renders, although it is prone to flare - in normal conditions it is surprisingly contrasty for an uncoated lens. The Pilot 6 itself is a little tedious to focus, although I've just put a new mirror in and can see a difference in the viewfinder. It is very compact, not taking up much more space than a 645 format folding camera. I enjoyed using it a lot.</p>

<p>PS: I'm looking for the Chinese made Great Wall SLR which was a copy of the later (slightly more refined) Pilot Super. If anybody has a lead on one get in touch with me!</p>

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<p>Great write up on an interesting camera, one that I have yet to see. I too, like the way the lens renders, especially the Bug photo!<br>

These old uncoated lenses have a charm all of their own, and the look can be really nice with the right subjects. You should try some B&W with it some time.<br>

Thanks for the heads up on the Pilot.</p>

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<p>Really nice work with a camera that is not, in my experience, all that easy to use.</p>

<p>My later version, the Pilot Super, has a mirror that is nearly all gone dark, so TTL shooting is difficult. You inspire me to try it again, though. Thanks</p><div>00d9T7-555245184.jpg.5d2190572946e830b9c2be30cec503c3.jpg</div>

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<p>Thanks for the comments everybody.<br>

JDM, I shot these images with the original mirror but a few days ago I received a new mirror and it definitely makes the viewfinder image much sharper, although surprisingly not any brighter. I discovered the original mirror was not in too bad of shape so I transferred it into a late model Pilot 6 (the one that looks like the Super) which had a severely discoloured mirror. The procedure is not too difficult, although with the later model removal of the mirror was much more difficult. In both the mirror simply fits under some tabs and is then held in position by a small strip spring. But in the early model the tabs are smaller and the spring weaker which makes swapping the mirror pretty easy to do. For the small cost involved though, it's definitely worth doing.</p>

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I replaced the mirror in my Pilot *Super* with one from a Polaroid 600 series camera. I had to cut about a centimetre off the wide end of it (and I didn't do the neatest job of that; snapped one corner off; but it's still a big improvement on the original mirror). With that done, it's very near to the perfect size and shape.
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Wow.. All 'I ever read on this was it was hard to use when working correctly and finding one working

correctly was hard to do.. Excellent results. ! I love the sharpness of the statue thou there is a bit of

distortion or flare on that shot. All were excellent . Thanks for the custom mirror tip. I have a 10 year project

on a ArtDeco rolleicord mirror. I bought two version that "might fit" Now I have a link to have a customer

mirror cut!

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