Film and developer to start?

<p>Getting back into shooting black and white and home developing. Backing the day when I did it, we used Tri-X and D-76. I'd like to start with one film and developer and get to "know" it.<br>

Suggestions? I do mostly street photography and natural light portraits. I would like a one shot, liquid developer for ease of use. I'm going to get ten rolls and have a try. </p>

<p>May I suggest HC-110. It is almost like D-76 except that you can dilute it and use it straight from the concentrate to mimic a rash of other developers. There are official and unofficial dilutions and your milage may very but I prefer dilutions B,H and F. </p>

<p>http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

<p>Well, I used Tri-X and D-76 years and years ago, and still do.</p>

<p>Someday, I might try HC-110. The liquid sounds like a good idea to avoid mixing a gallon of it and having it get old before you use it all,<br>

or can you parcel up the HC-110 that-a-way?</p>

<p>Developers in order of preference for good results and economy of use: HC110, mix concentrate direct with water just before use, has multiple dilution ratios available; Xtol, mix from powder to a stock solution then dilute 1:1; D76.</p>

<p>Good films are T Max 100 & 400, HP5+, Delta 100 &400, many like FP4; Arista EDU Ultra from http://www.freestylephoto.biz/</p>

<p> Well You can make it in Dilution A or B and then use it one shot , replenished or with extra time for additional rolls.. Kodak no longer sells the replenisher but the company that makes it now sells it under the name Legacy Pro.<br>

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/10191-LegacyPro-L110R-Bandamp-W-Liquid-Film-Developer-Replenisher-1-Pint-to<br>

I use it that way but I mix a quart/Liter at a time if I am going to be doing a few days of film at a time. Otherwise it is one shot or without the replentisher you can use Dilution A and B with extra time per roll like many developers. Times though for A are too short for my taste.<br>

Larry</p>

<p>I would stick with Tri-X and D76.</p>

<p>My choice is Ilford FP4 and Rodinal/Adonal. If light is poor then Ilford HP5.</p>

<p>As for the film of choice I say pick one and stay with it then move on I think you already got a classic choice but maybe I can suggest you try Neopan 400 for your next round. :D</p>

<p>Reading everything! Keep them coming! There is such a wealth of information at photo.net. </p>

<p>Ilford Delta 400 and DDX developer or Delta 100 and DDX if you have the light for an ISO 100 film.</p>

<p>I'm just a duffer, using Tri-X and HC110. I divide the 16 oz of HC110 into four 4 oz brown bottles/caps, to help preserve it.</p>

<p>I do "Dilution B", for a single roll 35mm canister that's 1/4 oz of concentrate and water to make 8 ounces. I do 6~6.5 min's at 20C (68F).</p>

My favorite combination is T-Max 400 shot at 200 and developed with HC-110 dilution H (1 part developer to 63 parts

water). I get great tonality and its also great for handheld photography, especially if you shoot a camera that has a top

shutter speed of 1/1000 (Leicas, Pentax medium format, Mamiya 645 etc.). I also like Tri-X 400 in HC-110 and in Rodinal.

HC-110 is probably the most versatile developer out there and it lasts forever as a concentrate, which is great if you don't

develop very often. D76 is great, but it will go bad over time unless you use it all up, though I have had bottles of stock

solution last for about 6 months in a glass bottle with any air space filled with the gas from a duster can. Rodinal also

lasts a very long time as a concentrate. The only thing about Rodinal is it isn't exactly suited for all films and can

accentuate grain, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. I do like Rodinal with FP4 and Tri-X, but have never been able to

get good results with HP5.

<p>If you're just starting out, Tri-X and D-76<br /><br />If you did this 20 years ago and you're trying again, Tri-X and D-76<br /><br />If you've been doing this for 40 years and you want to get consistent results you can depend on every time, Tri-X and D-76<br /><br />If you're on a web site where 10 different people give you 10 different answers to a simple question, Tri-X and D-76</p>

Ilford FP4, HP5, Kodak HC-110

<p>You will get a lot of good advice and probably a different developer recommendation from most everyone who responds. Personally I've gone back to Tmax developer that beloved long lasting syrup-like liquid developer. OK a lot of folks don't like it but I am not sure why.</p>

<p>Only films I shoot now are Tri-x at anywhere from 200-800 and Delta 100 from 50-200 depending on the light. I've found Tmax developer to work great with either film offering reasonable fine grain and decent sharpness. It's a bit of a speed developer too. Oh and a big plus is I don't have to keep jugs of developer mixed from powders wondering if they are getting too old. Tmax seems to last forever.</p>

<p>Warning TMY-2 Does not push as well as Tri-X.</p>

 

Hi guys could not find info on developing my 14 x 18 inch negatives I make on glass.want to use

pyrocatechin,12 grains; potass.hydrate, 30 grains; soda. Sulfite. (Anhydrous), 20 grains;

potassium. Bromide, 5 grains; and water, 10 Oz's., formula is in old book and it says will

produce rich blue black tones on bromide or chloride a bromide papers image appears in 10

seconds and complete in 2 minutes. My emulsion formulas are from 1895 to 1907 in an old manual

that's still readable. Plates are large and have designed a small apparatus to hold the plate

as I pour on the emulsion.then while still warm vibrates till emulsion level,didn't want to

spread by brush which I will probably have to use when I have to use for my positive emulsion

which goes on prepared canvas from hobby lobby which is has to also have a base for the

emulsion. I'm interested in para-catechol as its cheap cause the murals I want to make on

canvas will be 43 by 58 inches and trays must hold 3 gallons developer. Not interested in gamma

,gradation or technical problems at this time.negative emulsion will be thick I assume and

positive emulsion is different.any information you guys could suggest on catechol or its

benefits by other added ingredients to achieve better performance would sure be appreciated.

Not interested in different developer will be used for negative and positive work. Would like

input suggested so I and others who read this and want to experiment in emulsion making can go

this way .I have collected many manuals on emulsion making from the old days and only want

those who inter this field to have it simple for people on low budgets. I make bellows mammoth

wooden cameras large film holders and am 72 years old single and just an old did that combines

the old ways with some modern twists.interested only in catechin. ( takermaker )

<p>Not sure it has something to do with the original topic...</p>

<p>I'm not sure of the rules here regarding other sites, but this is one I'd take to APUG.org . They have a forum specifically dedicated to these processes.<br>

Mods, remove it if I'm out of line.</p>

<p>You could also consider Ilford Ilfosol 3. I use this developer a lot and it's EASY and gives you a slight film speed boost.<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Tri-X & D-76 to start with.<br>

Why?<br>

You already know it, so with a little refresher you should get outstanding negatives.<br>

If you don't <em>need the speed</em> and have a tripod give FP-4+ a try (in D-76 or the Ilford equivalent)</p>

<p> </p>