Loading film onto a reel?

<p>I'm almost done gathering the things I need to process my own B&W film. I'm having trouble deciding on the reels. I bought a couple of metal reels and I'm having a hard time spooling my practice film onto the reel. Is it any easier with the plastic reel that you twist once you get the film onto it? If I can master loading the reels I'll take the next step which is ordering my chemistry.</p>

<p>Were the reels "no-name" and "Made in China"? Lots of the current production reels come pre-bent (out of square) from China. Try a Hewes reel (made in England). Or a vintage Nikor reel.<br>

But there is a "feel" to loading those reels. You need to let the natural curve of the film do the work for you, you're just keeping the angle of approach right while you turn the reel. The film gets "wider" when it curves around the reel, and pops into the grooves.<br>

Plastic reels can be easier to load. Until they get dirty. Or get worn. You're trying to push an entire roll of film up the groove, and it doesn't take much friction at all to make that a nightmare.</p>

<p>I've always found it easier to load film on reels by not clipping them to the springy clip in the center. Instead, keep the beginning of the reel's center, straight up before turning off the light. Then curl the film side to side, putting it down to the center of the reel (imagining putting it onto the first coil in the center on both sides, then hold the film straight out of the reel by about a foot. Then start bending the film from the cannister and letting it engage from the center out, without applying any pressure at all. Just let it naturally click in between each of the coils as it moves its way outward to the end of the roll.</p>

<p>i STRTED OUT WITH 120 AND 127 WHICH IS HARDER<br>

to load than 35mm.<br>

thr reels were larger with deeper grooves.<br>

when I started 35mm I used a plastic FR Special tank and often used the center hook to help load the film.<br>

I sill use the same (1949) fr tanks andf several newer ones.<br>

tyhe white plastiv reels and the double reel that pertmity developing two 47 exp rolls.<br>

using several 100 for rols od ektachrome I had no problerms.<br>

Possibly because I had previously developed so much bl;ack andf whiute film.<br>

I I have some newer stainless steel reels and tanks.<br>

reading postings, I have been careful not t drop or abuse them.<br>

I think the basic secret is to be gentle and not heavy handed. and cup the fdilm slightly.<br>

the last roll of 35mm I loaden on a plastic FR special reel, I simply pushed in from tyhje end. I trimmed or " nicked" the corners slightly to avois jamming.<br>

If you avoid force the film goes on easily.</p>

<p>Practice makes perfect, and if it doesn't work for you, try it another way, till you find what works for you. And if you can't get the hang of the metal ones, try the plastic ones. Don't know what a seasoned pro would say about that (I think some veterans may scoff at the plastic reels, not sure). I'm by no means a seasoned veteran, and I've never tried metal reels, only plastic. But I've developed hundreds of rolls with the same old plastic "auto-loader" reels with the ball bearings, the ones that come with the plastic Paterson tank, and they work flawlessly for me every time. Maybe there's an advantage to the metal ones but I've never had any problems with plastic. Just my 2 cents.</p>

<p>Only trouble I've had is when the film binds a bit and you need to give it a little help forward with your thumb, I've given a little too much downward pressure and gotten slight scratches from the emulsion side pressing down against the bottom of the guide/intake/thingy (whatever it's called). That was just the first few times. Gotten a little more careful and gentle and it hasn't happened again.</p>

<p>Practice makes perfect. I've always used the steel Nikor reels-sometimes with a guide for both 120 and 35 mm film. Make sure you've clipped enough of the end so that there's room on the reel for the film, To me, developing the feel of the right and consistent amount of pressure between my thumb and index fingers while loading the reel was the toughest part, along with keeping the roll of film perpendicular to the reel. My suggestion is to do many repetitions while watching in daylight until you feel comfortable, then repeat while closing your eyes. The next step is to repeat the procedure in the darkroom and putting the loaded reel in the tank. For me I was surprised how many times after I loaded the reel I had to fumble around while I tried to find where in the h--- I put the tank.</p>

<p>I find the plastic reels easier with 35 mm, and the steel reels easier with 120. 35 mm film is pretty stiff, so it pushes onto the plastic reels OK. 120 film is softer, and sometimes crinkles when loaded onto the plastic reels, but winds easily onto the stainless steel reels. 35 mm film, if the slightest bit out of square, won't load onto the steel reels, and because it's thinner, it's harder to get it square.</p>

<p>This is something I can really really relate to! I started with plastic reels which seemed good at first but got progressively harder to load as they were coated with chemical residue. I was given a SS reel but could not for the life of me get it to load without the film touching, I probably wasted 30 rolls and it was very disheartening. </p>

<p>Then I tried a Hewes reel and it was like magic! Well 99% like magic. With 35mm once you slip the sprocket holes over the little prongs, it's virtually impossible for me to make a mistake. They are expensive but so worth it IMO.</p>

 

<p>I have a much easier time with 35mm on plastic (I have a Yankee tank) and with 120 on a Hewes stainless reel. I know people who have the opposite experience. Whichever you find you like, it's very important to clean the plastic ones well and especially to get all residue from PhotoFlo off of both kinds. <br>

Somewhere on YouTube there's a video of Jason Brunner loading 120 onto a Hewes reel - worth watching.</p>

<p>According to my own experience, loading 35mm films on metal reels is a little more difficult (but with practice you get used to it), especially if your film has a thin base and is longer than 30 exposures. Besides, I don't see obvious advantages using metal reels, although I still use them, once in a while, when my plastic reels are still wet...<br>

Plastic reels are way much easier, no sweat.</p>

<p>The best reel I have found is the Gepe reel which loads from the centre via a clip on guide. It will even load when wet and is quite easy to load without the guide.</p>

<p>I was given a Gepe 35mm tank and reel recently and will not use anything else now, I now want one for 120.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, this is not like riding a bicycle. I found that it took me a long time to get back in practice on the metal spools.<br /> I bought one of the plastic "auto"-load-by-twisting just to see, but haven't yet got around to using it since my developer and fixer have timed out, and I don't want to get fresh until I get some bulk loaded B&W film to use it on.</p><div></div>

<p>Practice makes perfect.<br>

Use whichever one works FOR YOU.<br>

Personally, I use stainless steel Nikkor reels that I got back in the 70s. As other have said, there seems to be a quality difference between brands. I have not had ANY problems using Nikkor reels, in high school, at home and at a local community college.<br>

As with Micheal, I do not use the clips in the center, I found they give me more trouble than they are worth. But you do have to practice to get the hang of loading a stainless steel reel. In my case I was able to load a test roll of 120 the first time. So for me once learned, easy to do again, even changing film formats.<br>

Practice while looking at the reel until you can do it consistently, then close your eyes and load the reel.<br>

The guys that use plastic reels can give you tricks to make loading the plastic reels easier.</p>

<p>Okay, sorry for reviving an oldish thread but I'm trying to figure out these steel reels. I've been practicing and don't have much trouble loading it but I'm always left with a couple inches extra hanging off the end. Is that normal? Am I doing something wrong? Should I just let it hang?</p>

<p>Horace, it depends. A well made reel should accommodate an entire 36 exposure roll of 35mm film, or medium format roll for which the reel was designed (120 and 220 require different stainless reels, but either should fit a Paterson style plastic reel).</p>

<p>No idea about the cheap Chinese stainless reels, never used 'em. They might be too short for a 36 exposure roll of 35mm. And if you bulk load film it's possible to cram more than 36 exposures into a cassette - I've managed up to 40 exposures with some cassettes, although it's a tight squeeze and risks damaging the film and camera takeup spool. And the longer strip may overhang some reels.</p>

<p>Okay, thanks Lex. This is a cheap 35mm reel I think, says Japan on it. Do you think an inch or two overhang would cause problems? I'm imagining it pulling even more of the film loose when I invert.</p>

 

<p>I started with a plastic reel (Yankee II) but inherited a Nikor from my grandfather when I was 10.<br>

I think it took me a few tries to get used to it, but I never wanted to go back to plastic after that.<br>

Now I only use plastic for films that I don't have SS reels for. I now even have a Nikor 116 reel. (With original instructions and slide device.) I lost the slide device for 35mm many years ago. My grandfather told me that only beginners use it. I did use it the first few times.<br>

After not doing any darkroom work for over 20 years, I started again about 5 years ago. I didn't completely remember, but it didn't take long to get used to it again. Mostly knowing how much curve to put in the film.<br>

My 35mm reels don't have a clip, but the 120 reel does. I also have a plastic reel with a hook in the middle.</p>