What is the best UV filter for the Nikkor 24-70 G ?

<p>I got my new Nikkor 24-70G . What is the best UV filter (just for the lens protection) would you recommend for this lens? Or would you recommend any filter at all? Which filter will not compromise the quality of the image?<br>

Thanks!</p>

 

<p>Get a filter made to standards as good or better than your lens. Make sure it has an anti-reflection coating. I like B+W or Hoya, because they are cut and polished from the slab and have brass rings. They're not cheap, but won't degrade the image.</p>

<p>Any filter, regardless of the quality, will cause veiling flare if sunlight strikes them directly, or you're shooting into the light or bright sky.</p>

<p>Polarizing filters work best for actually removing haze from distant scenery. That's caused by scattering, which is inherently polarized.</p>

B+W.

<p>The only ones I trust are the ones I use: B+W or Heliopan.</p>

<p>Les</p>

<p> </p>

<p>B+W and Hoya are among the best. I keep a filter on all of my lenses since over the years I have shot in situations where the things that can get on a lens outweigh the degradation that a filter might cause. If you are shooting something where critical sharpness is paramount you can always take the filter off, but I leave mine on since I'd rather replace a damaged filter than a damaged lens.</p>

<p>+1 B+W </p>

<p>I don't usually put a filter on my lenses but when I do I buy B&W or Heliopan.</p>

<p>The only reason to put on a filter (IMHO) is to ensure water resistance for those lenses that say they need it for that purpose. Otherwise they are largely a waste of money. I do have them on my Canon L zooms for this purpose and I think the Nikon 24-70 may require one too to be fully water protected. I use B+W from habit, but the Hoya HMC are good too. But don't feel you have to get one.</p>

<p>Speaking for myself, if I have a UV on the lens, I would take if off before hitting the shutter. So the filter brand does not matter. Actually I have stopped using UV filters for a very long time. I do use B+W and Heliopan circular polarizers where needed.</p>

<p>Used to stick to B+W, Nikon, or Heliopan until I read the following link. Now I only have Nikon and high-end Hoya filters. All new filters are Hoyas, they are as good as the german filters and cost less (IMHO).<br>

http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html</p>

<p>I used Hoya multicoated filters for a long time, and they were fine. B+W should be even better, but I always found them a little pricey.</p>

<p>The reason I stopped using UV filters as protection is because I shoot into the sun quite often, and the whole picture becomes a big ghost city most of the times. I don't think the brand of the filter makes a difference in this case. I always leave a lens hood on for protection, which should do a good work protecting the front element against bumps. If you take pictures in very dusty or windy conditions, you might want to put a filter on (I probably should have kept a filter on my 24mm f/2.8 which I used for aerial photography and routinely stuck it outside the airplane into the airflow, so now it's got tiny scratch marks all over it. Oh well, it served me well for years, and it still works just fine), just keep in mind that if you get ghosts and flares in your pictures, take it off before you start blaming the lens.</p>

<p>Hoya HMC. There's absolutely no point in spending more for a spuriously more 'prestigious' name. Hoya is one of the major manufacturers of specialist optical glass and suppliers of cut and polished blanks, so they should know what they're doing. Their latest HMC coatings seem as effective as Nikon's or any other company's.<br>

I second Georges' recommendation to read this comprehensive test of UV filters: http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test_Introduction.html</p>

<p>However, any thickness of glass stuck in front of a lens can degrade performance slightly, especially long tele lenses. I tend to look at UV filters as transparent lens caps; good for keeping dust and fingerprints off the lens itself, but to be removed for really critical work. It's a trade off between environmental protection of the lens from sand, dust, moisture, spray etc. and keeping the best image quality. If there's no dust, grit or other obvious danger to the lens, then you might as well leave the filter off.</p>

<p>UV radiation is a non-issue in most cases, since the huge thickness of glass in most lenses will absorb far more than any thin filter is likely to.</p>

<p>For protection? Clearly, the lens cap that came with the camera. It's a lot tougher than some flimsy piece of glass, isn't it? I also always use a lens hood. This keeps crud from hitting the glass in the first place. I very rarely use a filter for "protection" except in extreme circumstances. An example would be at the base of a waterfall where there is silt laden spray in the air. Of course, I'm likely using a polarizer there anyway. I once had a lens damaged when the filter shattered and the shards scratched the glass, so I've become very negative about filters protecting anything. I haven't used one in a dozen years now and my lenses are all perfect. I have lenses from the pre-Civil War 1850s that have never had a filter on them, and they're all perfect as well. I buy used lenses fairly regularly. When one comes with a UV filter, I take it off and toss it.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

<p>B+W for expensive very lenses since they are stronger more likely to protect than Hoya.</p>

<p>I agree with everything Kent Staubus said!</p>

<p>If you want to protect your new lens, my advice is to always use the hood. Leave it <em>permanently</em> attached.</p>

<p>The front group of the 24-70 is quite big and heavy, running in a more or less complex helicoid system. Some say this helicoids are somewhat delicate. To keep the smoothness of the zooming ring, I`m convinced we need to protect it against blows or any undesired pressure over it. Never leave the lens head down without the hood inside the bag, car trunk or whatever, worst if the camera is attached over it. The hood acts like an armor; it`s amongst the best ever made by Nikon, and with a great design to minimize size with a really good stray light protection.</p>

<p>I have followed this recommendations, and my helicoids still run smooth after the years.</p>

<p>About the filter... nah, I don`t use them (unless necessary). Best are made with "Schott" glass (B+W, Heliopan), or similar quality (Hoya, etc.).<br /> (BTW, good filters are, by far, the most overpriced accessory. You will pay double for a 5% improvement (at best!).</p>

<p>I was already aware of the tests referred to by Georges and Rodeo Joe. Unless it has been properly updated by further tests on the listed filters, is it not now a little antique? That said, I tend to use Hoya HMC or B+W.</p>

<p>I like Rodenstock's new line of filters. Coming from the large format world they have always made great lenses and their filters share the same coatings/build as Heliopan but at a lower price.</p>

<p>UV filters are for Leica M8's and film cameras. As said above, use your lens hood and lens cap. Marks on the front lens rarely affect the final image. It is the rear lens element that is most important to protect.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"B+W for expensive very lenses since they are stronger more likely to protect than Hoya."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>What evidence do you have for that Andre? It's a thin bit of glass in either brand, for goodness sake. Neither of them are gonna stop a bullet! But either will just as effectively prevent an accidental scratch or - more likely - long term damage through over-cleaning the lens.</p>

<p>Besides, if it's impact resistance you're after, then a cheap Cokin resin filter will withstand breakage far better than any glass filter.</p>

<blockquote>

<p> "Unless it has been properly updated by further tests on the listed filters, is it not now a little antique?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No. Exactly how much do you think filter technology has moved on in 5 years? I'm guessing that in this current economy, R&D into filters isn't a top priority for any company. The last innovation I saw advertised was a water-repellent coating. What wasn't mentioned was the effect (if any) this had on the filter's optical qualities.</p>

<p>+3 B+W</p>

<p>Do you really need a filter to "protect" a lens?<br>

http://petapixel.com/2013/07/08/video-torture-testing-the-front-element-of-canons-thrifty-fifty-50mm-f1-8-ii/</p>

<p>According to B+W, water and crud repellent coatings have no effect (nanocoatings as they call them) and are optically equivalent to the multicoated equivalents. I agree with everyone who is anti filter. I only put them on my L zooms where the manufacturer recommends them to maintain weather resistance, but accept they are pretty well a waste of money. Interestingly though I have not noticed any undue or unusual flare with them on so far. I don't think that good ones affect the image at all in reality, but agree there may be a few cases when removing them might be beneficial. I reckon that manufacturers who make high performance zooms and teles and then suggest you put a filter on them know that they will not affect lens performance, otherwise they really would not suggest it, and I think this largely born out from the Lenstip tests. There are new types of filters since these tests (B+W XS Pro nano), and they are testing UVs and I only buy clear filters, but the message is the same.</p>

<p>i use a Hoya HMC on my 24-70. it's already gotten a couple of dings which could have damaged the front element.</p>

I used to rarely use any filters, or caps for that matter, but with the newer lenses for digital, and the increasing use of

plastic front mounts, I have over the last few years been using Hoya HMC and now the nano coat or whatever. They have

been very reliable and have not given me any problems or flare ghosts etc. I have Hasselblads with B+W and original HB

filters and those are cut Schott optical glass and that's why they're so expensive. There is a difference if you want the

absolute top line stuff. But Hoya has been very good for me, no complaints. BTW I use Sky filters not UV.