Rollei B35 or 35

<p>Oh I think if I like this one I'll definitely go for the 35 or S, I just can't quite believe how small it is. Incredible.</p>

<p>It arrives tomorrow, can't wait to load it up and go shooting!</p>

<p>Rollei, like some other German makers, expects that you will adapt to the machine, rather than the other way around. (Deutschebetriebspsychologie).<br>

In this case, I think it's worth it. Enjoy - </p>

<p>The favorite thing about my 35 SE (purchased new 1981) is that people think it's a toy and "you can't possibly take serious pics with that..." especially with a flash turned upside down</p>

<p>Ok, it's here and so far it looks absolutely wonderful! Hardly a mark on it, lens clear and meter working well. Happy days!</p>

<p>Just a quick question before I head out shooting - the orange marker inside the meter window, do I need to think about that? What's it for? It doesn't move when I turn the dial but I can't find what it is in the manual, so curious before I shoot my first roll.</p>

<p>A quick question about rangefinders - I have a Minolta AL and I'm finding the tiny rangefinder patch quite tricky to see and deal with in bright light (I think it may have faded over time too), so I'm wondering if any of the other cheap rangefinders have a larger patch to focus with. I'm sure Leica do but I am in no position to buy one at the moment, so will live with it if this is standard for the price range.</p>

<p>I will get my B35 out later today and check on the orange marker.<br /> An excellent choice and value for a fixed lens rangefinder is the Konica Auto S2. It uses a 625 cell to power the light meter and offers shutter priority automation and full manual operation. Since mercury 625's are now longer available you can buy the Wein Cell 625 (a zinc air substitute). I bought a Konica Auto S2 brand new in 1974 and it still works great.</p><div></div>

<p>Dawn- just got my B35 out and looked at the meter window: The orange area does not move with adjustments, but is the warning for underexposure. In other words if the meter needle moves into the orange zone then there is insufficient light for correct exposure. Getting my B35 out reminded me that I haven't used it in a while so I think I will have to run a roll of film through it today.<br>

On your rangefinder spot question, if you want more automation, the Canonet 28 that JDM posted a photo of is another good choice. For even more compactness, but similar specs, there is the Konica C35. Both of those cameras a program automation that set shutter speeds from 1/30 at f2.8 to 1/650 sec at f14 (at least Konica, not sure about maximum for Canonet)</p>

 

<p>Thanks Mike, I thought it might be something like that. I will make sure the needle doesn't hit the orange marker.</p>

<p>I'm not looking for a automatic rangefinder, it would be nice to have the option for shutter priority but I'd also want to override it with manual controls. However, I've never used an automatic rangefinder so if the results are good it might be an alternative to the very manual Rollei. Does the Konica s2/c35 and Canonet have a large rangefinder patch then, and how are their images? My main concern when not having control over the shutter speed is the image blurring, but I guess if it doesn't go too low that may not be a problem. Also, I've heard the s2 and Canonet are pretty heavy, which could put me off taking them out all the time. </p>

<p>The Konica Auto S2 is a lot bigger and heavier than the Rollei and even the C35. The rangefinder patches in the S2 on the average seem to have held up well. The Konica Auto S2 has a 45 mm f1.8 lens when also adds to its size. However, it is still lighter than most SLRs. Looking forward to seeing some of your results from your new Rollei.</p>

<p>The Konica Auto s3 looks pretty good, if I give up manual control. I've actually sent the Minolta back, as it had several faults and I didn't like it enough to get it fixed. Perhaps I'll stick with the Rollei for now, see how those photographs turn out before getting another rangefinder. The Rollei might be the only camera I need! :)</p>

<p>The Auto S3 can be a bit pricey on the used market. Another alternative for compact rangefinder is the Canonet GIII 17. Looks like JDM's Canonet 28 but with a 40 mm f1.7 and has both shutter priority and full manual exposure. Also, the Olympus 35 RC is worth a look, but make sure rangefinder spot is still bright. Like the Canonet GIII 17 and Konica Auto S2, it has both shutter priority and manual exposure. Lens is a 42 mm f2.8.</p>

<p>I'll have a look at them, see what sort of prices they're going for.</p>

<p>One thing I keep doing with the Rollei is I set the shutter speed on the meter but forget to set it on the lens! Something I'll get used to I'm sure, especially after I've ruined a few films :) </p>

<p>I did that a few times when I first got my B35. Basically the meter is like an external one but just happens to be built in to the camera. Usually called an uncoupled meter since changing shutter speed or aperture on the camera has no effect on meter reading. After you've worked with it a few times you will get used to it. BTW, what kind of film are you using for your first roll?</p>

<p>Oh, just some Fuji Superia X-TRA 400 I had left over. I'll see how they turn about before putting in my precious black and white film, but if it works I'd like to start developing it myself.</p>

<p>As mentioned, the Olympus RC is a nice, small rangefinder with a great lens. I love the Konicas, but they are large and heavy.</p>

<p>For dim patches there are two tricks that can help: a piece of black tape (or sharpie mark) on the main viewfinder window that is about the size of the rangefinder window - this creates an outline of sorts around the patch, making it easier to see. Another method is to put a piece of neutral density gel over the main viewfinder window - this dims the view a little, but increases the contrast between the view and the RF patch.</p>

<p>Dawn- for the price Fuji Superia X-Tra 400 is a fine color film. I prefer it over Kodak's 400 version. The quality of scans when developed can make a difference, though. Black & white developing is easy to learn and you will like the control you have over your images.</p>

<p>Some great tips there David, thanks. I like the look of the Olympus, I've also been looking at the Ricoh 500g, perhaps because it looks a bit like the Rollei b35 :)</p>

<p>Mike, that's good to know, it was pretty cheap so I wasn't expecting much. As for film processing, it looks super complicated but I think once I get my head around it, it should be fun.</p>

<p>My account of working with a Ricoh 500G - Ricoh made great cameras, and their viewfinder and rangefinder models were especially good.<br>

http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Xkkc </p>

<p>The Ricoh 500G generally sells for a lot less on the used market than comparable models from Canon, Olympus, Minolta, and Konica. For even less, at least in American market, you can find one with Sears branding on it. If you're considering a rangefinder model definitely give one a closer look. Also heavy like the Konica Auto S2, but inexpensive, are some of the Yashica rangefinder models. The Yashica Lynx 5000 has match needle metering, a 45 mm f1.8 lens, and shutter speeds of 1 sec. to 1/500 sec. plus B. Even less expensive is the Yashica Minister D which has an f2.8 lens, but same range of shutter speeds. The older versions of the Yashica Minister have selenium cells so batteries not needed.</p>

<p>Mike, I've looked at the Yashica models and they look great, but they're too big and heavy for me, especially since using the Rollei!</p>

<p>I'm now leaning more towards the Olympus XA or the Nikon L35 to compliment my Rollei. They look pretty compact and easy to use, which is what I want for everyday use with not much thinking required. Any thoughts on either of these?</p>

<p>I'm not familiar with the Nikon L35, but I own an Olympus XA (which stopped working a few months ago). It is compact with an accurate meter and quiet shutter, but is totally battery dependent. Mine seems to have developed a problem with the shutter release. Also, the lens, while sharp, tends to vignette so beware of large uniform backgrounds such as blue skies, etc. Most of the time it is not an issue, though. One neat feature, though, is the camera can do automatic time exposures up to several seconds.<br>

Here's an XA shot from a couple of years ago. You can see some light fall-off at edges, especially upper right corner. But the sharpness is there, although the six element retrofocus 35mm f2.8 lens is a bit soft wide open. Also the aperture only has four blades which may or may not make a difference.</p><div></div>

<p>Here's another shot to show the low light (via automatic time exposure) capability. I set the camera on the edge of a table and tripped the shutter using the self-timer to avoid camera shake.</p><div></div>

<p>I love that second one Mike, absolutely stunning. It's quite mind blowing to me how good these old cameras are. I really thought to get images like that I'd need a Leica or something equally expensive. </p>

<p>The Nikon has autofocus but the images are really sharp and very 'retro' looking, which I like. Noisy though and bigger than the Olympus.</p>

<p>Here's a photo to show size comparisons of the Rollei 35, Olympus 35 RC, and Olympus XA. The Bosley camera was one I was trying to revive and only partially succeeded. Anyway, its from the 1950's rather than the early 1970's like the Rollei 35 and Olympus RC. The XA is from the 1980's. The XA has a clamshell cover so it would be more compact if closed. Note of the Rollei 35, my version was made in Singapore during the 70's, but the first ones were made in the late 60's in Germany.</p><div></div>

<p>Right, took the Rollei out and just got my first test roll back from Snappy Snaps, so not great (matt) prints but I'm so chuffed with the colours, they look fantastic. Plus, they're in focus! Very surprised, I really felt like I was fumbling in the dark but they worked.</p>

<p>I'd like to upload a couple of pictures but not sure how. Do I have to upload them to another site first?</p>

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