lambert_s. Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>So, is there a specific reason why most cameras have foam that after a <em>n</em> number of years deteriorates creating mess inside a sterile item such a film camera?</p> <p>I am not the only one thinking about this, Prakticas have apparently some strings running in their gaps, and the mirror bumper is almost inexistent.<br /><br />In the past I fixed my ME super with a mouse pad foam creating the mirror bumper, and a couple of film canister felts, for the door hinge. The door strips were fine, so I never touched them. many fil rolls went through it, and eventually stopped working just because I dropped it from the tripod and landed on its film rewinding knob.</p> <p>Now, I am about to use alternative (and pretty much durable forever) materials to fix up my Ricoh KR10 Super:</p> <p>Mouse pad foam, film canister felt and <strong>black silicon</strong> for the door strips.</p> <p>While I obviously don't give a flying damn about originality in this camera (also because the LCD light meter has a leak), do you think this is not advisable? Why?</p> <p>Thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_wheatland Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>I use peel and stick felt cut to size (available at craft stores) for the mirror bumper and door hinge seal. The mouse pad for mirror bumper is too thick and may damage the mirror hinge assembly. For the body groove where the door edges fit, clean out the rotted foam with a wooden skewer or toothpick. I experimented with not using a replacement for the foam (no light leak detected) but relented and used black knitting yarn forced in place and cut to size. Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_leonard3 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>I own at least 50 cameras that represent many decades of camera making and so far I have never had any problems with light seals and foam. Therefore I am puzzled concerning just what you are talking about. I am also puzzled as to why you think mouse pad foam would work. Perhaps it will but why do you think this is the case? You seem to have a rather rude attitude toward older cameras that have the effrontery to not work to perfection after quite a number of years. Perhaps you should consider buying newer cameras.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianS1664879711 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>You've been lucky, Gary. But what was described in the original post is fact for many people, not a denigration of old cameras. There are some that seem to often have deteriorated foam and others that don't. One of the big differences may be how well maintained the cameras were (bad light seals or mirror bumper foam gets replaced during a normal servicing) and the storage conditions.</p> ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert_s. Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>Paul wheatland, the mouse pad I found was a very cheap found in a Chinese shop, so it was not really that thick. Thanks for the yarn suggestion, it's less invasive than silicone for sure! And I obviously don't have to wait with the camera open for it to dry. I will try it later!<br /><br />Gary Leonard: ?<br> Lucky you! It seems you got all your cameras with perfect light seals, I may be rather unlucky because most of the ones I got had them shot (2 over 3) and the only one that was perfectly fine was my Praktica, that doesn't have any foam. For sure they deteriorate: http://j.mp/1iUe6N6<br />That's where my thinking is coming from. Thinking outside the box isn't rude.<br> The mouse pad <strong>does</strong> <strong>work</strong>. It worked for 3 years no stop, until the camera fell over. But I guess that's not related.<br /><br /><br /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianS1664879711 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>p.s. The foam sheets sold at craft stores are actually easier to cut than an old mousepad. Plus, they last a very long time - I have almost a decade on one light seal replacement. For the mirror bumper, though, both are too dense.</p> ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert_s. Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>Thanks Brian, I agree on the density, it was honestly my only concern back then, but it was my first film camera, I wanted to use it, no place where to fix it where I used to live, and so I went for the mouse mat.<br> I think I will try with felt for the mirror bumper as Paul explained, this should be more of the appropriate density/thickness (considering a strip of double sided tape).<br />At the end of the day the camera has a useless light meter which I doubt can be fixed without spending more than the camera is worth, and virtually no seals, so I wouldn't do anything else with this camera anyway. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianS1664879711 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>I could be wrong, but the foam mirror bumper is as much (more?) for a soft landing for the SLR mirror than it is for light sealing. Felt might do it, but I think a very soft foam is better (even if it needs to be replaced more often than the door foam.)</p> ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianS1664879711 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>p.s. I re-foamed a Ricoh TL-S with a nonfunctioning meter. It is basically worthless but of sentimental value since it was my godfather's camera. The door foam had deteriorated into goo that infiltrated the shutter too. Once all that was cleaned up as best it could and the door foam replaced, it is a really nice "old skool" camera. Don't let the "worthlessness" of a camera slow you down. :)</p> ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert_s. Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>Thanks again, and no, its "worthlessness" is not as much "worthlessness" because I really like it besides the light meter and the light seals issue. Bright viewfinder with a diagonal single split screen, which I like and wish all cameras had. <br> <br />As for the foam, I looked for alternatives because when I first got my ME Super I tried to blow off few dust specs on the focussing screen, and blowing I detached some goo from the foam which landed on the focussing screen marking it all. It was day 1, minute 1, after taking it out of the parcel. True story, and I fear for this when I see deteriorated foam so close to a such a delicate area.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Seaman Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>I guess the camera makers of the 1970's never knew that the foam would deteriorate in the way it does, or expected people would still be using their products 40 years later. I wonder how many people are still running a 1970's car on its original tyres? The foam problem is as much a function of the longevity of the cameras themselves, as some kind of planned obsolescence.<br /> <br />My own take is that I don't even bother to scrape the old foam out of the grooves at the top and bottom of the door. Once the black knitting wool is glued in, you don't even know it's there.</p> <p>The peel away sticky back black felt is by far the best material for the hinge seal and mirror bumper, if you can get it. If it doesn't feel quite thick enough for the hinge, just put another layer on the opposite surface. I've used it for mirror bumpers on many makes and types, and it seems to do the trick.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>For most of the 'better' cameras, you can find replacement, pre-cut to fit light seals and instructions on eBay and elsewhere on the net.</p> <p>They cost so little, I've never found it attractive to use "do-it-myself" materials.</p> <p>Which reminds me, I have a couple of cameras that need doing....</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert_s. Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>Well, it's not really about the price, I am sure that if I go to buy a roll of yarn and some felt it will cost the same or more than the foam, it's about trying to do something better. Once.<br> I know I come from nowhere, with 9 or 10 posts, and I dropped a mega bomb on the forum, but - oh, well. I was just asking... </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz_carlsson1 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 <p>This procedure works and is described in detail:<br> photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_the_waste Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 <p>I bought a roll of black yarn at Walmart for four dollars and still have 99% of it left. I resealed my Yashica A with it and a couple of drops of crazy glue (applied with a needle) only to find the leak came from the tripod mount. I fixed that with a piece of black electrical tape.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_de_waal Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 It seems photo.net's moderators have inadvertently deleted the illustrations from my article on light- seal replacement. Dissapointing. I've saved a .pdf of the article and placed it on my web site. Here it is: http://www.peterdewaal.com/images/HOW_TO_REPLACE_LIGHT_SEALS_WITHOUT_USING_FOAM_STRIPS,_MOVIE_CAMERA_STYLE.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m smith Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 <blockquote> <p>The peel away sticky back black felt is by far the best material for the hinge seal and mirror bumper,</p> </blockquote> <p>It is... but in most cases, there is no point in removing the backing paper. Just cut to size and place in the slot. For 99.9999% of the cameras life the door will be closed and will hold the foam in place. When the door is open, foam cut to a snug fit will stay in place in the slot, helped out by any sticky residue from the previous foam.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert_s. Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 <p>Thanks Peter, I now saved it in the hard drive!! </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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