Jump to content

Door light seals. idea for an alternative and definitive solution


Recommended Posts

<p>So, is there a specific reason why most cameras have foam that after a <em>n</em> number of years deteriorates creating mess inside a sterile item such a film camera?</p>

<p>I am not the only one thinking about this, Prakticas have apparently some strings running in their gaps, and the mirror bumper is almost inexistent.<br /><br />In the past I fixed my ME super with a mouse pad foam creating the mirror bumper, and a couple of film canister felts, for the door hinge. The door strips were fine, so I never touched them. many fil rolls went through it, and eventually stopped working just because I dropped it from the tripod and landed on its film rewinding knob.</p>

<p>Now, I am about to use alternative (and pretty much durable forever) materials to fix up my Ricoh KR10 Super:</p>

<p>Mouse pad foam, film canister felt and <strong>black silicon</strong> for the door strips.</p>

<p>While I obviously don't give a flying damn about originality in this camera (also because the LCD light meter has a leak), do you think this is not advisable? Why?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I use peel and stick felt cut to size (available at craft stores) for the mirror bumper and door hinge seal. The mouse pad for mirror bumper is too thick and may damage the mirror hinge assembly. For the body groove where the door edges fit, clean out the rotted foam with a wooden skewer or toothpick. I experimented with not using a replacement for the foam (no light leak detected) but relented and used black knitting yarn forced in place and cut to size. Good luck!</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I own at least 50 cameras that represent many decades of camera making and so far I have never had any problems with light seals and foam. Therefore I am puzzled concerning just what you are talking about. I am also puzzled as to why you think mouse pad foam would work. Perhaps it will but why do you think this is the case? You seem to have a rather rude attitude toward older cameras that have the effrontery to not work to perfection after quite a number of years. Perhaps you should consider buying newer cameras.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>You've been lucky, Gary. But what was described in the original post is fact for many people, not a denigration of old cameras. There are some that seem to often have deteriorated foam and others that don't. One of the big differences may be how well maintained the cameras were (bad light seals or mirror bumper foam gets replaced during a normal servicing) and the storage conditions.</p>
...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Paul wheatland, the mouse pad I found was a very cheap found in a Chinese shop, so it was not really that thick. Thanks for the yarn suggestion, it's less invasive than silicone for sure! And I obviously don't have to wait with the camera open for it to dry. I will try it later!<br /><br />Gary Leonard: ?<br>

Lucky you! It seems you got all your cameras with perfect light seals, I may be rather unlucky because most of the ones I got had them shot (2 over 3) and the only one that was perfectly fine was my Praktica, that doesn't have any foam. For sure they deteriorate: http://j.mp/1iUe6N6<br />That's where my thinking is coming from. Thinking outside the box isn't rude.<br>

The mouse pad <strong>does</strong> <strong>work</strong>. It worked for 3 years no stop, until the camera fell over. But I guess that's not related.<br /><br /><br /></p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks Brian, I agree on the density, it was honestly my only concern back then, but it was my first film camera, I wanted to use it, no place where to fix it where I used to live, and so I went for the mouse mat.<br>

I think I will try with felt for the mirror bumper as Paul explained, this should be more of the appropriate density/thickness (considering a strip of double sided tape).<br />At the end of the day the camera has a useless light meter which I doubt can be fixed without spending more than the camera is worth, and virtually no seals, so I wouldn't do anything else with this camera anyway. </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>p.s. I re-foamed a Ricoh TL-S with a nonfunctioning meter. It is basically worthless but of sentimental value since it was my godfather's camera. The door foam had deteriorated into goo that infiltrated the shutter too. Once all that was cleaned up as best it could and the door foam replaced, it is a really nice "old skool" camera. Don't let the "worthlessness" of a camera slow you down. :)</p>
...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks again, and no, its "worthlessness" is not as much "worthlessness" because I really like it besides the light meter and the light seals issue. Bright viewfinder with a diagonal single split screen, which I like and wish all cameras had. <br>

<br />As for the foam, I looked for alternatives because when I first got my ME Super I tried to blow off few dust specs on the focussing screen, and blowing I detached some goo from the foam which landed on the focussing screen marking it all. It was day 1, minute 1, after taking it out of the parcel. True story, and I fear for this when I see deteriorated foam so close to a such a delicate area.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I guess the camera makers of the 1970's never knew that the foam would deteriorate in the way it does, or expected people would still be using their products 40 years later. I wonder how many people are still running a 1970's car on its original tyres? The foam problem is as much a function of the longevity of the cameras themselves, as some kind of planned obsolescence.<br /> <br />My own take is that I don't even bother to scrape the old foam out of the grooves at the top and bottom of the door. Once the black knitting wool is glued in, you don't even know it's there.</p>

<p>The peel away sticky back black felt is by far the best material for the hinge seal and mirror bumper, if you can get it. If it doesn't feel quite thick enough for the hinge, just put another layer on the opposite surface. I've used it for mirror bumpers on many makes and types, and it seems to do the trick.</p>

<p> </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>For most of the 'better' cameras, you can find replacement, pre-cut to fit light seals and instructions on eBay and elsewhere on the net.</p>

<p>They cost so little, I've never found it attractive to use "do-it-myself" materials.</p>

<p>Which reminds me, I have a couple of cameras that need doing....</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Well, it's not really about the price, I am sure that if I go to buy a roll of yarn and some felt it will cost the same or more than the foam, it's about trying to do something better. Once.<br>

I know I come from nowhere, with 9 or 10 posts, and I dropped a mega bomb on the forum, but - oh, well. I was just asking... </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I bought a roll of black yarn at Walmart for four dollars and still have 99% of it left. I resealed my Yashica A with it and a couple of drops of crazy glue (applied with a needle) only to find the leak came from the tripod mount. I fixed that with a piece of black electrical tape.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

<blockquote>

<p>The peel away sticky back black felt is by far the best material for the hinge seal and mirror bumper,</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It is... but in most cases, there is no point in removing the backing paper. Just cut to size and place in the slot. For 99.9999% of the cameras life the door will be closed and will hold the foam in place. When the door is open, foam cut to a snug fit will stay in place in the slot, helped out by any sticky residue from the previous foam.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...