Developing Foma R100 Slide Film

<p>I want to try developing Foma's R100 35mm film in their positive developing kit and have some questions.</p>

<p>(1) How is the re-exposure done? The instructions say 30 seconds on each side of the film at a 1 meter distance from a 100 watt bulb. So do I just take the lid off the tank and hold it towards the light for 30 seconds and then turn the film reel over to do the opposite side?</p>

<p>(2) There is no mention of agitation for each stage of the process.</p>

<p>(3) I'd like to try some 120 films so has anyone successfully processed any other films as positives in this kit?</p>

<p>I'd think you would want to take the film off the spool for the re-exposure. From what I've read, that was the norm for processing E-3 slide film. Otherwise there's a risk of shadows from the reel spokes.<br>

Which would mean you'd want to use a stainless steel reel, since you can't load a plastic reel with wet film.<br>

There was a Nikor "6 foot 35mm" reel, which had wide turn spacing, and required a 4.25 inch diameter tank, and could be used to re-expose reversal film on reel. But a normal 36 exposure Nikor reel has very tight spirals, very little light can get in.</p>

<p>When home developing of movie film was popular back in the 1970s or so, you took the lid off the tank and left the film on the reel. But the reel was plastic and I think it might have been clear.My guess with a single reel of 35mm, especially on a stainless steel reel, that enough light would hit the film from either side that you'd be fine. Maybe move the reel around a little as it's expose to the light. Taking it off while it's stlil wet and trying to put it back on again for the other chemicals would likely be a disaster.</p>

<p>1. You need a transparant clear reel. The re- exposure is not critical.<br>

2. You need normal regular agitation during the proces<br>

3. You can do Agfa Scala 200 120 in this kit too. The best way is to use clear Polyester type films. Rollei Superpan 200 / Retro 400S is suitable too and both 35mm and 120 roll film is on clear Polyester.<br>

<a href="http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/F_pan_R_en.pdf">http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/F_pan_R_en.pdf</a></p>

<p>For the bleach the Potassiumdichromate is changed for Potassiumpermanganate in the kit. Less effective and a chance for solid parts on the negative but less harmfull because Potassiumdichromate is nasty stuff.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the replies. Great information Robert.</p>

<p>I read somewhere that other films will work but to use "half strength" potassium permanganate. Do you know anything about this Robert?</p>

<p>I only know that you have to make the Permanganate fresh otherwise you will have problems of solid parts on the negative. Dichromate did not have this problem but according EU regulations this material is not allowed in any commercial photographic kit sold within the EU.<br>

Same is about the mercury batteries and instruments (barometer), all tungsten bulbs etc. </p>

<p>Thank you Robert.</p>

<p>I did it myself a while ago. Failed with the first roll before a few forum posts and Mr. Vonk set me straight: you need to mix that permanganate right before you use it. I re-exposed the roll on a metal reel without removing it from the roll. I got excellent results. Robert, have you ever used the kit to reversal process Orwo UN 54?</p>