Photographing model ships

<p>Hi, my name is John. I am the owner and Admin of a The Ship Modeling Forum. We recently ran a <a href="http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/contest/2013-2014_model_winners.html" target="_blank">Ship Model Competition</a>.<br>

Our members are excellent Model Shipwrights, but not the best when it comes to photography.<br>

Those who placed high in the voting furnished some very good photos, but some have commented that if other modelers had better quality images, they may ave changed their vote.<br>

Example - (SYLVIA II) 1st Place winner in the Small Boat Category:<br>

<img src="http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/contest/2013/1016/SYLVIA%20II.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /><br>

Example - (Chaperon) Placed poorly in the voting (Modified Kit / Kit Category). Great model, but poor photography:<br>

<img src="http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/contest/2013/1014/Chaperon.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="476" /><br>

These are just two examples. My question is, can you professionals recommend any article(s) on the proper technique for photographing ship models that I could pass on to my members?<br>

Thank you, John</p>

<p>This sort of thing is pretty much like any other table-top-scale product photography. Which is to say, there are a lot of factors that add up to success. Top of the list, in such circumstances:<br /><br />1) Backdrop. A roll of seamless photo background paper can go a long way to reducing the distractions caused by other ... <em>stuff</em>. The temptation for a lot of people is to use a bedsheet or other similar textile, but those can really show some wrinkles. A couple of large pieces of foam core from the art/craft store can also be put to work. But a roll of seamless really helps.<br /><br />2) Light. This is the hardest part for non-photographers who aren't equipped with lighting gear. Generally, they'll want to turn OFF any flash that's part of or mounted to the camera, as that's going to be to harsh and directional, causing hard shadows and bright reflections. Think in terms of the light on a bright cloudy day - the light is coming from "everywhere" and though it's a bit boring and flat, it works. You can simulate that with daylight through a gauzy curtain, and use sheet of white foam core or another material as reflectors to bounce some light as needed to fill shadows. If you're working with available light (rather than studio flash units, etc), the camera will probably be using a slower shutter speed, and a tripod is going to make a big difference in keeping the shot sharp.<br /><br />3) Focal length ("zoom"). The wider the setting on the lens (a "shorter" focal length), the closer you need to be to the model to have it fill the frame, and the more background the lens will see. As you use a longer focal length (zooming in), you need to back up, shooting from more of a distance. But as you do that, the amount of background is greatly reduced. This cuts down on the need for a super wide piece of background material... but it also flattens the perspective. So this is partly subjective (some models may want to be seen with a bit of a "looming" perspective, to convey the illusion of size), but mostly it's a matter of practicality. Regardless, being too close with too wide an angle will cause an annoying perspective distortion. <br /><br />4) Color temperature. Make sure that the camera is set to a color temp setting that matches the light source being used (daylight, tungsten, fluorescent lights, etc). This will help keep the colors looking honest.<br /><br />This is a potentially huge topic, but those are things to explore. Hunting for tips, the general category you're exploring is often referred to as "product photography," and there are many online tutorials and examples. The bible for learning a lot of these concepts is the book "Light: Science and Magic" ... but for someone who has invested hundreds of hours in producing a beautiful piece of work, the real answer might be an hour spent with a professional photographer who can knock out a perfect shot and produce a series of good finished files in a fraction of the time that it would take a beginner to wrestle with it.</p>

<p>This might be a little advanced but it can help inspire model ship makers to attempt better photography - Michael Paul Smith maintains an extensive portfolio of forced perspective photos of model cars. He discusses and describes his technique on his Flickr page and well worth going through: <br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N05/with/11650475646">http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N05/with/11650475646</a><br>

<a href="http://fstoppers.com/model-maker-turns-toy-cars-into-nostalgic-life-like-images-on-a-200-point-and-shoot">http://fstoppers.com/model-maker-turns-toy-cars-into-nostalgic-life-like-images-on-a-200-point-and-shoot</a></p>

<p>As a ship modeller and a photographer I feel that I have some qualifications in answering this question. It is hard to get a good photo!<br>

I tried the wrinkled bed sheet approach it was awful. I did not want to go to the expense of buying a roll of backing paper so I took the ship outside and used the greenery in my garden as a backdrop. It was certainly better than a cluttered domestic background. I was extremely nervous carrying it outside as the model measures 6' long and 4' high and the extremities are very fragile. To do the job properly you need lots of space around it especially indoors. As I said earlier, it is not easy.<br>

Close ups of detail are not so bad though.</p>

<p>Here are some of my efforts, they wouldn't win any competitions but they are a record of what I built.</p>

<p><a href="http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?13710">http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?13710</a></p>

<p>often on models you want to show the details for competitions, if there are "reproduction"categories you will want to be a tad closer using the widest setting the camera has so to make it look a bit less like a model. But even in a general kind of competition you want to avoid taking pictures high and flat from the side that give the aerial scout look, a 3/4 more or less level with the model is generally better.You want to show off the sheer giving a bit of shadow, but not use so much light from one single direction that everything above the sheer blends together: You can see it a bit on Sylvia II. Generally on boats you want that some details of the hull show, ideally you should be able to see the keel meeting the garboard, the chines shouldnt disappear in shadows. The reflection from the bottom shouldnt be too much in lapstrake models or theres the risk of erasing the strakes, unless you are trying to minimize errors in their proportions. Placing the model on a shiny dark surface often helps to reflect upwards a bit of the light.<br>

As already said a plain dark background will not distract the eye taking away from the model<br>

The cheapest light is a window, you can use reflectors to balance it around the model, plenty of videos on the net on how to make and use them, pick the ones with the cheapest homemade setup (2 or 3 pieces of foam or whiteboard and some ducktape) so members can see how to use it.<br>

If someone doesnt have a tripod, even the small dollar store ones can do, tell them to place the camera on a stack of books, a beanbag... any stable support to rest the camera on basically, then turn on the selftimer and let the camera take the picture without touching it<br>

Often the builder will take a picture and "see" the details of the model only because he built it and knows where they are (same goes for the defects), to other builders they might seem less visible because the picture is flat, in a competition you dont want judges to look for something they expect but cant distinguish, having someone else as sounding board is useful.<br>

On the "judge" side you can level the field a bit forcing people to shoot the model from a certain angle only, in that case ask for two pictures for each model i.e. one from the bow and one from the stern so you wont penalize anyone. Often two shots, a whole model one and a detail closeup, can balance things since busy and extremely detailed reproductions will loose a bit in the whole picture that can show off very well the simple models, but the closeup of the small detail will show off more the care taken for the busy ones: like a detail in the masts and rigging or the deck in the paddlewheeler.</p>

 

<p>A 53-inch wide roll of seamless is $25. It's 12 yards long, so there's enough there for many years of use. There are wider rolls that cost more, but 53 inches is probably wide enough for most models. Comes in a wide variety of color. Other types of background material are also available but seamless paper is a good way to start. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=seamless&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=seamless&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search</a> (This page shows a fancy support system in addition to the paper, but you can hang the paper on a closet rod, a piece of pipe or whatever you like.)<br /><br />With any backdrop, keep the model as far from the backdrop as you can while still having the backdrop fill the background. In the picture of the Sylvia, you've got the general idea but you are too close to the backdrop and showing shadows. <br /><br />Also, get down to the level of the boat, looking at it from the perspective of a person looking at the real thing -- in other words, looking up or at eye level, not down. In the shot of the sternwheeler, the camera is way to high.<br /><br />For lighting, try a flash in an umbrella on a lightstand for soft, even light. Go to <a href="http://www.strobist.com">www.strobist.com</a> and read the Lighting 101 section to learn some basics about flash.<br /><br />I'm not sure if there are ship model magazines that have articles on model photography. But There are model train magazines that do. Go check out a few at the local newstand, or google them online. The model railroad people take pride in photographing their model trains to look like real trains -- some of the shots are as good as the model work done in movies. I would think the same principles would apply with model ships.</p>

<p>One addition to Matt's excellent list is perfectly demonstrated in the example photos provided.</p>

<p>Do not stand next to the model and shoot down on it from the height of your own head. Get the camera low, at the level of the ship.</p>

<p>This is further reinforced by reading the article Michael linked to.</p>

<p>edit: Craig beat me to it. </p>

<p>All of the above responses are good suggestions regarding composition, camera angle, and backdrops. Other than that, it helps to have good light. This is the toughest hurdle since I assume most of the contestants may not be photo enthusiasts and thus don't have an extensive list of flashes, light modifiers etc. One thing I might try would require you to have a tripod, a camera capable of bulb or timed exposure (allows you to make an exposure of at least a few seconds or longer) and a flashlight. Shoot the model ship in a dark room and use a flashlight from a side, or 45 degree angle to illuminate the ship. You could experiment with different lighting angles and the amount of light you "paint" over the model during the exposure. I have tried this with other small objects on my table top and it can create a very interesting, dramatic look that would separate you ship from the rest of the pack.</p>

<p>Re: diffuse light sources -- they will give you soft shadows (like in the first example image)<br>

I hate to continue the recommendations for uses for foam core, but a large sheet of it can act as a light diffuser if you aim a strobe at it (away from your subject) and use the reflected light to illuminate your model.<br>

A sheet of the stuff is horrendously expensive, but find a local design house (they use the stuff by the truckload) and ask them if they have any scraps. Even a quarter-sheet would work.</p>

<p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/railfan/MarcoPolo15Feb2012.jpg" alt="" width="639" height="800" /></p><p>I'm a model railroad photographer, been doing it for about 40 years now. A while ago a friend asked me to photograph a ship model he purchased. Its a model of the "Marco Polo", a locally built sailing ship that became quite famous in its time. Here's one of my shots.</p>

<p>The water is a scan from a nautical magazine my friend loaned me. The backdrop is a wall in my hobby room with painted clouds.</p>

<p>I maintain a hobby website for model railroaders wanting to photograph their models, perhaps there might be something of interest in the site:<p/>http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/<p>

Good luck!</p>

The simplest setup with the best light is natural light. Outdoors in the open shade with a simple backdrop would do a very good job for people who are not photographers (and don't want to be).

 

This is a page that I made up a while back for people on eBay who wanted to know a simple way to get good photos of items that they wanted to sell. (The Sony Mavica was king at that time for eBay sellers):

 

http://jdainis.com/setup.html

<p>I guess if a model floats the best way to shoot it should be in the water at scale speed (AFAIK almost every RC fishing boat is fairly overpowered...) with the lens as close to the waterline as somehow possible. If you use a telephoto maybe keep a bit of distance on a pond's beach and put the camera on the ground. if wading is an optionget a protective bag for snorkeling and have the ship close enough to use a wide to normal lens.</p>

<p>I tend to agree with James on keeping it as simple as you can.<br /> One problem is showing detail as many model shipwrights are obsessive about getting the ship model as precise as possible. Most point & shoot cameras have good macro (close up) ability and here a tripod is really useful. Set the camera up on the tripod and use the self-timer to set off the shutter so that camera shake is not present.<br /> My otherl tip is to learn how to use a Photoshop type program. The shot below was taken through a glass case in a darkly lit museum and the camera was hand held and frankly the shot has little to recommand it. But with PS detail is more visible. It is always best to get the best picture in the camera but if that cannot be had then using PS is a useful fall-back.</p><div></div>

<p>Bob -- that's exactly the type of shot I was talking about. The detail work that hard-core model railroaders do is comparable to the work done by professional model builders working in Hollywood. Properly photographed it can be difficult to distinguish from the real thing.</p>

<p>First, many good answers so far in this thread.<br>

Second, a lot depends upon what you're trying to do....show off the detail of the model?....make it look realistic (ala diorama)?....show as much of the model as possible?....show scale (thus put a human or coin or yardstick near it with clear lighting)?...create an artistically compelling shot?<br>

Okay, those questions aside, let me provide a range of links for a couple of articles and websites and examples that you can sort through and decide which best fit your members and your society/competition:<br>

--David Levinthal is a nationally recognized artist who creates tableaus and dioramas with deliberately obscured and poorly-lit shots--probably not what you're looking for but still it will convey a lot of great examples about how stage photos (and compose them) so they look more realistic: http://www.davidlevinthal.com/works.html<br>

--Lori Nix makes amazing backgrounds: http://www.lorinix.net<br>

--Matthew Albenese does some incredible fake scenery and micro worlds: http://petapixel.com/2012/10/19/a-behind-the-scenes-glimpse-of-matthew-albaneses-magical-miniature-worlds/<br>

--Here's a good article by a model railroader who also shoots his work. The article is also specific to shooting for competition: http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2013/03/i-photographer-model-railroad-shooter-paul-dolkos<br>

General tips I would offer:<br>

1. Use a tripod. Not some cheap POS but something that is rock solid and on solid ground (i.e.: not carpet). And take a long exposure (to let in more light and so you don't have to use a flash). A handheld camera in low light usually has a slower shutter speed which usually means you capture less detail (which it sounds like you want MORE detail and sharper photos).<br>

2. Use a soft box or a scrim (cloth like a sheet or window curtain) to soften the light and reduce the glare and harsh shadows. Then put a piece of white paper or poster-board to serve as a reflector on the other side of the light source (to help reduce and soften shadows even more and make the lighting appear even more natural).<br>

3. If you want to capture as much detail of the model as possible, than you'll shoot with a narrow f-stop (something like f8/f11) so the entire model is in-focus. This means you absolutely need to be using a tripod (or have good studio lighting).<br>

4. Remove clutter (unless you're shooting in a diorama and trying to make your model "real-world"...in which case you construct clutter). Let me explain....plan the background, get rid of all the crap around the model and display it. Just get a large piece of poster board, lay it flat and then curve it up to provide a background (if we were shooting human models we'd call this a cyc...short for cyclorama). We'd put the DoF to include the model but not the background or foreground which would be empty. If you wanted to create a realistic model in a real world-setting, you'd use DoF to help hide empty spots, you'd intentionally add items in the foreground and background to generate some visual "clutter." An example would be that rather than just put your model ship on an imaginary ocean, you'd put clouds in the background and maybe a wave in the immediate foreground that obscures a big of the ship (as if the picture was taken from a dinghy or rowboat approaching the ship). </p>

<p>Wow! Thank you all. I never expected this kind of response. All excellent suggestions. I'll go through them all and write up a brief for my members. Again, thank you for your help.<br /> John</p>

<p>Understanding light & reflection types are critical to any type of table top photography. Without getting the principles right, your results will continue as a hit & miss exercise.<br>

I know this is not a direct answer, but I don't think such would be most beneficial to you.<br>

I suggest <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Magic-Introduction-Photographic/dp/0240812255/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396261036&sr=8-3&keywords=lighting+in+photography">this book</a> to get you going in the right direction. It does NOT deal with digital or film, but specifically focuses on lighting alone. It may not have images of ship models, but should be more than helpful in finding your own way around the subject, buy use of lights, screens etc. There are clearly explained principles of everything you need to know.</p>