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Which camera for trip to the Arctic Circle


bobgeldart

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<p>Last year I spent 2 weeks camping in the north of Finland in February/March. The camera I used was a little Sony DSC-TX5. I also had six batteries as there was no opportunity to recharge. I will be returning in February 2014 and want to take a better camera, one that can do long exposures to capture the Northern Lights. I'd also like a camera with a sensor no smaller than that of the Nikon 1 compact system cameras. As temperatures are expected to average about -20 Celsius and may drop to -40C I will be operating the camera with gloves on. Ideally I don't want to spend a small fortune but money is not a major concern.<br>

So (finally) my question is what camera (+ six batteries) can you recommend for my holiday landscape/people snapshots?</p>

<p><img src="http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/finland/websize/DSC02515.JPG" alt="" width="720" height="405" /></p>

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<p>Interesting you mentioned the Nikon 1 system. I've been wondering whether my Nikon V1 might be useful for cold weather use, particularly with long exposures or video. It tends to overheat in summer and limits continuous video to only 10 minutes when the ambient temperature approaches 100F. But I noticed recently it could handle 20 minutes and some change of continuous video in cooler fall weather. </p>

<p>The EN-EL15 battery offers fairly high capacity for a camera the size of the V1, and a battery will last throughout a long shooting session if I disable the rear screen and use only the EVF for composing and reviewing shots. I usually tote one spare EN-EL15 and have never been able to burn through both batteries in a single long day/night of shooting, consisting of frequent use of the rear LCD and shooting videos along with still photos.</p>

<p>One advantage to the Nikon 1 System is the dead simple top plate with only three controls: the largest button for still photos; the smaller red button for video; the small, recessed on/off button, which is almost impossible to press accidentally.</p>

<p>I'm also planning to try a generic IR remote control for some tripod mounted long exposure experimental photos. This might help with gloved-hands operation.</p>

<p>But I'm in Texas where the winter temp rarely goes below 20F, so there's no way to test how it would behave in the Arctic.</p>

<p>By the way, would a solar recharger be feasible for your needs? That might enable you to just continue using your existing equipment.</p>

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<p>In my experience small cameras are a bit of a lottery in extreme cold. I live in the Canadian rockies where the temperature will drop to -40C in the winter. We have the advantage of dry air whereas I have found Finland to be wetter. I have used the following small cameras in temperatures below -20C but have not kept them out for more than a day or two. Panasonic G1, Nikon V1 and J1 and a couple of Sony, Canon fixed lens models. In winter I usually use Canon DSLRs which work fine in cold weather. This is not just the 1 series models but even my 7D. This once spent a week in a truck parked outside at between -25C and -42C and worked fine - probably taking 250-300 shots before the battery went flat. I have to say it was a new battery but I was surprised that the battery held up so well. <br>

With the compact cameras I have had several that have just decided to fail in the cold - sometimes they will come back to life when they are warmed up. This is not just batteries but also what seem to be shutters and connections in the camera. I have even had times when mechanical shutters or lens irises have apparently frozen. The most reliable camera I have used in cold conditions is the Very old (film) Canon F1 which has 30 years of service and despite not having had the low temperature lubricants Canon suggested back in the day works fine.<br>

By the way shooting without gloves in -40 is reasonable but in windy (and damp) conditions take care how long you keep your hands out of your gloves. When I camp in winter I keep the batteries by my body / in my sleeping bag. But leave the camera in the tent awning in a pack. The reason I do this is that condensation can be an issue if the air inside the tent gets above freezing - this is more of a problem when the weather is in the 0 to-10 region.</p>

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<p>You want a weather sealed camera. I'd say look at the Olympus E-1, E-3. or E-5. All old & discontinued but would work well. Get weather sealed lenses as well. Two lenses would do: 12-60mm SWD (24-120mm FF equiv.) amd the 50-200mm SWD (100-400mm FF equiv.).</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

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<p><img src="http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/2013-Winter-EdVenture/i-6TNtFPw/1/M/_DSC0248-Edit-M.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>last year I spent 10 days between the Northslope and Talkeetna Alaska. the coldest was out on the northslope where it was -27F during the day. when shooting the northernlights I had my Nikon d800e and sony nex5R both camera's had no problem with the cold and using my nikon I was able to set the built in intervalometer to fire my camera every 10 sec (8 sec exposure) sometimes up to an hour with no problems. One set of batteries would last me a night. my sony had no problems I would use the wireless remote to fire the camera which I kept in my coat pocket. the old problem is that with the bigger cameras you will need a bigger tripod for your long exposure. It was funny watching people with their joby table top tripod laying in the snow and people with cheap tripods that froz up.</p>

<p><a href="http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/2013-Winter-EdVenture#!/i-6L3ZBnW/A">http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/2013-Winter-EdVenture#!/i-6L3ZBnW/A</a></p>

<p>In Harbin I only had my sony A850 but had no problems with the cold at -30F<br>

<a href="http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/Harbin-Ice-and-Snow-Festival">http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/Harbin-Ice-and-Snow-Festival</a></p>

<p><img src="http://riwong.smugmug.com/Travel/Harbin-Ice-and-Snow-Festival/i-CWfZkCk/0/M/_DSC1650-M.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>I've never been anywhere THAT cold with a camera but it seems to me that mechanical cameras such as Leica M2s or M3s would sidestep the battery problem -- but then wouldn't film be brittle in temperatures that cold? Don't know. We had a 50 below wind chill day (about 25 below actual temperature) once and had some pretty strange things happen to our cars. I might try to bring a manual backup camera and some film just in case the electronics and/or the batteries had issues. I remember reading a story that recommended the cameras not be brought into the warm rooms to keep from getting a film of condensation on them as they warmed up. Good luck.</p>
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<p>I've used a Nikon D80, D7000, and D7100 at -40C. I live in Whitehorse, Yukon, so we get those kinds of temperatures every winter. I generally just use a pair of wool liner gloves to handle the camera, take on and off my over gloves a lot. I must say the plastic bodied D80 was the most comfortable to hold in the cold.<br /><br />I've never worried too, too much about the camera and the cold. I leave them in my car, I've winter camped with them and they don't seem to be bothered by freezing. I just take the batteries out when I am not using and as mentioned before, you have to watch for condensation going from temperature extremes. I doubt its that bad for the camera, you just can't take pictures for a bit.</p>

<p>These temperatures are outside the specified operating temperatures, so you might not get your warranty, and things do get brittle...<br /><br />I have had more problems with tripods in the cold, then cameras.</p>

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<p>Hi all!<br>

Im Marga Burton and I am new to this forum. You have a very interesting topic here and learner a lot upon reading this thread.<br />I look forward to chatting with you all about travel and photo opportunities.<br>

<a href="http://www.google.com/url?q=http://philadelphia.citysearch.com/profile/8982352/philadelphia_pa/palace_travel_inc.html&usd=2&usg=ALhdy28l_PrWKUZV8lwurcNfOQNWreh9mw" target="_blank">http://philadelphia.citysearch.com/profile/8982352/philadelphia_pa/palace_travel_inc.html</a></p>

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Not sure if you are backpacking or not. If so the weight obviously is more important. If not, I would really recommend a full sized DSLR. Nikon has the best track record for fewer problems with cold, but honestly they will all do well enough if you are careful.

 

The cold isn't going to hurt the camera. -20C is no trouble at all, and about -30C is where you need to start taking care. At -40 life gets just plain fun. But as long as cameras and lenses are stored with a cover over them, and never allowed to get above freezing, all should be well.

 

Batteries are a problem. One of my cameras is a Nikon D800, and I use a battery grip with the adapter for the same battery that fits the D4, an EN-EL18. The larger battery of course lasts longer before it needs to be warmed up when working in the cold. That's a nice consideration for shooting Northern Lights. It helps to not use the LCD for previewing any more than you must, and turn off VR when it isn't necessary. I'd also take a look at the suggestion of a solar powered recharger.

 

Others have suggested that tripods can be a pain in the cold. I highly recommend a carbon fiber from Gitzo, with some kind of leg wraps on it (homemade from pipe insulation is just fine). The twist lock legs work well in the cold, and in particular are less likely to break in extreme cold.

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<p>I am a winter photographer, and love to take photos at night. I've had no problems with Nikons D80, D300 at 40 below zero, and my D5100 and D7100 have been working fine around zero (F) lately. Probably the best camera for extended extreme cold is an old Nikon FM2n. Those are pretty bulletproof. I take photos of trains at night, and the more extreme the conditions the better. Winters are pretty harsh here on the Northern Plains, a continental climate. What no one else has mentioned yet is my strategy for keeping cameras working well while sitting out on a tripod for long periods of time. I have made a little wool wrap for mine and fasten it with velcro strips. Between the camera and the wool wrap, I stick one or two of those chemical handwarmers, right over the battery compartment. This seems to work great! I also put one directly against the batteries in the power packs for my monolights. Never had a problem. For gloves, I have Black Diamonds best "guide gloves." Warmest gloves made. When taking a shot I put on a pair of UnderArmor liner gloves which are very thin and have great grip. They protect my fingers for about 15 minutes at a time, and that's long enough.</p>

<p>Kent in SD </p><div>00cBOP-543762484.jpg.655f593bc1cec945bf9361aa08a51ccc.jpg</div>

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