SB910 Wireless with IR with D90?

<p>Hi. <br>

Today I bought a Nikon SB 910. The guy in the shop said I didn't need a wireless trigger on the cameras hotshoe to shoot wireless with my camera. I should save the money and use the built in IR.<br>

I simply can't find it anywhere in the camera or on the flash. Is it really possible? Is it not easier to get a radio trigger or a cabel?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>/S</p>

 

<p>Google to the rescue</p>

<p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1u5MOAqaS8</p>

<p>just google 'nikon D90 cls commander'</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Check out section D of the table of contents in your owner's manual. It explains the many wireless flash possibilities with the 910.</p>

<p>Oh that video was just what I needed. Thank you so much for saving me for hours of reading. <br>

Great. Have a nice evening both of you.</p>

<p>But if I need the popup flash to trigger it, then it doesn't make sense. <br>

Can I make sure the popup flash doesn't go off? That's ugly with the built in flash in a persons face. <br>

It must be possible, or else what use would an external remote flash be?</p>

<p>Get one of these: Nikon SG-3IR IR Panel for Camera Built-In Flashes. The pre-flash that triggers the wireless flash is mostly IR, this panel blocks the visible light that sometimes ends up in your picture.<br>

I sent the same info to answer a similar question in the Pentax forum</p>

<p>Sarah,<br>

Try it first. The D90 flash does flash but most of the time, you won't notice it. If you do find it objectionable, then get the SG-3IR widget.</p>

<p>Hi Peter.<br>

Thank you very much. That is a great and affordable little item. Will get one. (If not a radio trigger).</p>

 

<p>Howard: <br>

I can see that none of the camerashops in my area have them in stock. So I will just shoot the internal flash at 1/128. It looks like it will work. </p>

 

<p>No need for an IR filter.</p>

<p>Set the D90 built-in flash as commander with an output setting of '--'. Simple!<br /> See pp185-188 of the manual and camera menu option e2 - 'Flash Cntrl for Built-In Flash'.</p>

<p>Listen to what Rodeo Joe says for he speaks the truth ;)</p>

<p>Output flash power setting of "--" will supress most of the preflash visible flicker, but the final faint triger signal, when the shutter is open, could be visible in portrait or macro photography, depending on the camera settings.</p>

<p>There were numerous complaints that the "--" does not completely eliminate the visibility of the popup flash. That is why Nikon invented the filter. Some Nikon DSLR body produce less, and some more visible light in the picture from popup flash light, even if you do not want it. Not sure how bad is the D90 in this respect.</p>

<p>Perform a simplle test, taking picture of yourself in front of a mirror. Set the flash output to the --. You could see the blink of flash light in your picture, despite the "--". setting.</p>

<p>For such applications, SG3-IR filter is essential.</p>

<p>I agree, the '--' setting doesn't completely blank the flash. It can still be seen if you take a self-portrait in a mirror with that commander setting. However, it's a<em> very</em> weak flash - much weaker than 1/128th power for example. You could probably see it as a catchlight in a portrait, and you certainly wouldn't want to shoot glassware using it. But is it really worth buying a special IR filter to supress it? IMHO, no. For those occasions where it's an issue I just use radio triggers, which are much more reliable than CLS triggering anyway.</p>

<p>Alternatively you can make a simple flash deflector from a bit of shiny kitchen foil. Just clip or tape a couple of square inches of foil to the popup flash at a 45 degree angle or so. In this way you can reflect and direct the flash towards your slave flash while keeping it's light off the subject. Zero cost - 100% effective.</p>

<p>Edit: "Output flash power setting of "--" will supress most of the preflash visible flicker" - Not so Frank. The preflash CLS communication (or flicker) stays at the same intensity regardless of the BI flash power setting. What can be seen during the exposure is the decay and afterglow of the tube from those preflashes. Nikon obviously didn't allow enough delay between the preflash 'morse code' communication and the flash proper.</p>

<p>I just found out that you can turn the built in flash off. Just put in -- in "mode". It will still trigger the external flash.</p>