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Camera Setting Checklist


jordan2240

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<p>Hello all,<br />Forgive me if this has been asked, but I did not find anything similar in a search (though I did not look through all 10+ pages of results for 'checklist').<br />Often when I go out on a shoot (as a rank amateur), I realize once I get home that there was some camera setting I inadvertently forgot to change. In that regard, I'd like to develop a 'checklist' of all camera settings I should review before even leaving the house, and was wondering if others have suggestions for addition (or subtraction). I plan on keeping such a list in my camera bags so I no longer have that feeling of regret when I get home and find I shot something on a setting I'd forgotten to change. I realize, of course, that one might change settings during a shoot, but at that point, it will be intentional. Here's what my brother and I have come up with so far (and please correct my terminology if necessary):</p>

<ul>

<li>ISO Setting</li>

<li>Shooting Mode (i.e. Aperature Priority, Shutter Priority, etc)</li>

<li>Metering Mode (i.e. multi-segment, center-weighted, spot)</li>

<li>Focus Mode (manual, auto-s, auto-c)</li>

<li>Lens Focus Mode (since some of my lenses have an AF and MF setting)</li>

<li>Focus Point (multi, sel, center)</li>

<li>Anti-shake (since you aren't supposed to use on tripod)</li>

<li>Color Space</li>

<li>Color Mode (natural, landscape, vivid, etc)</li>

<li>RAW/JPEG setting</li>

<li># of shots remaining</li>

<li>battery life</li>

<li>exposure compensation off</li>

</ul>

<p>Thanks,<br />Bill</p>

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<p>Bill, you might make things easier for yourself if you decide which settings will change only rarely. That will leave just a few to be checked and perhaps changed when you actually are shooting. Experience will tell you which are your almost permanent settings. It is a mistake, I think, constantly to change many settings because they can be changed.</p>
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Its a good list, though I never change color space once I set it (on day I open the box and take out a new camera). # of shots remaining isn't an issue if you have additional memory cards. Battery indicators tend to show full until they don't, and then there is usually a limited amount of power remaining (carry a spare fully charged battery). Personally, I only shoot RAW and the color mode is always set to neutral/low contrast, but if you change those settings its good to check it before using the camera.
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<p>In my mind, the ISO setting, Shooting, metering and focusing modes, focus point(s), and exposure comp can't be decided with much accuracy before I leave the house. Maybe that's because I shoot wildlife - mainly birds - and the light changes constantly over the day. Rare is the day when I would be able to rigidly set even two or three of them and use them from dawn to dusk.<br>

As for the rest:</p>

<ul>

<li>Battery: Yes, you should absolutely make sure you are charged up. Carry a charged spare, or get a grip for your camera that can accommodate two batteries. Also, get to know how your camera uses batteries. I just went three shooting days with one pair of batteries in the grip of my Canon, and that totaled about 2,000 exposures. Two of those days had 10 hours of time where I would be looking for shots, activating the image stabilization, autofocus, etc.</li>

<li># shots remaining: You should endeavor to empty your cards after each shoot. Don't wait until they are "full" before downloading. And buy spares or higher capacity cards if you don't have them. You never know when you'll need more space. I usually start out on a day with over 100GB of space spread over six cards...</li>

<li>Color space: unless you have some pressing need to use Adobe RGB, just leave it in sRGB. From what I've seen here on pnet, switching to Adobe RGB is more often a problem for folks who aren't familiar with <em>why</em> one uses it.</li>

<li>Color mode: If you're shooting RAW, it really doesn't matter, although the JPEG preview will reflect this selection. This is also something you may want to change "on the fly" rather than trying to select one and stick with it.</li>

<li>RAW/JPEG: It's up to you, but RAW allows for more adjustment to the image to "rescue" a bad exposure. You can do some of that with a JPEG, but not to the same degree. Some cameras also have a button that can switch you from a JPEG or RAW mode into a JPEG + RAW, so you get the best of both.</li>

<li>Anti-shake: The tripod restriction may have been true at one time, but is not necessarily so today. Modern lenses can detect that they are on a tripod, or the tripod will have no effect with anti-shake (or IS, VC, etc...). Read the manual for the camera AND the lens (if the compensation is part of the lens) you will be using.</li>

</ul>

<p> Check your camera manual, and see if your camera offers "custom" modes. With these, you set up the camera as you like, and record the settings to memory. Then you can recall all of the settings with the turn of a dial.<br>

I can't tell you how many times I forget to adjust exposure, or compensation, or ISO. It happens to a lot of us, if not all, and especially if you get caught up in the moment when shooting.</p>

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<p>My checklist is as follows: <br>

1. Charged camera battery. <br>

2. Formatted memory Card. <br>

3. Correct clothing (including shoes). <br>

And that's it. </p>

<p>Learning to check the camera settings in the viewfinder before pressing the shutter simply must be practiced. If you have a specific subject matter in mind, obviously it makes sense to setup the camera for that beforehand, but otherwise I'd say just practice practice practice. ( And shoot RAW so you don't have to worry about things like WB or Color Space or Color Mode. :) </p>

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<p>I think I'd detect most of these the moment I put the camera to my eye - I normally change shutter and aperture dynamically, and keep an eye on what's happening to ISO. I'd notice if the camera wasn't in auto-ISO (where I normally leave it). I'd notice the AF behaviour, because the camera wouldn't focus where I expected.<br />

<br />

Of things that I might forget to change... I <i>have</i>, in the distant past, left a camera at a fixed high ISO and forgotten to change it (I was shooting in P mode, so the exposure was still correct). These days I spend 95% of my time in manual mode, so the ISO issue is unlikely to come up, but it's worth a check. I <i>have</i> left a camera in JPEG (actually, I think Nikon left it in JPEG after a sensor clean) and I've shot a lot of night sky images without realising I wasn't capturing raw - because I usually always shoot JPEG + raw. That's really the lesson: it's the things you never change that you need to check. I've probably made a mistake with white balance, too, but since I'm almost always in AWB and it doesn't really matter for raw shooting, I rarely get the camera into the wrong state here (though in retrospect it's probably happened when I cared about the JPEGs at some point).<br />

<br />

Two things tend to bite me that I can fix in the field: one is that I tend to leave the camera in timer release and spend a while stabbing at it to work out why it's not taking a photo (d'oh) and the other is time zone - I keep going on, or coming back from, holiday and fail to correct it. Hands up who hasn't done the daylight savings time adjustment on their cameras yet?<br />

<br />

Before going somewhere for a shoot, the night before getting the lenses and other accessories I need together, I check there's space on my memory cards (downloads can take time if I only remember on the morning) and make sure I have charged/spare batteries, because those are the things it's hard to fix in the field. Which reminds me, I'm going somewhere picturesque on Saturday, and should do this tonight...<br />

<br />

I hope that helps.</p>

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<p>I have to put my hand up.</p>

<p>And Bill - I'm a beginner too and just the other day I took some shots at ISO800. I actually might have gotten there anyhow, so it worked out, but yes - this learning thing makes me recall my days of learning to drive a car. Especially manual-shift...try as I might, I found it impossible to start out on a slight slope in 3rd gear. It took me several stalls and a river of tears to figure out my problem. Now? I love to shift so much that I even ride a motorcycle :)</p>

<p>So - I completely get your point of wanting to have a list of things to check. I also left my VR on though I was using a tripod. We're in the awkward years right now; we'll get there!</p>

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<p>There's a reason pilots have check lists. The alternative may be death.<br>

While I do very much regret the day in an exotic location when I forgot and shot on ISO 3200 nearly all day long, it was not actually life threatening, and as an old high-speed slide film user, I accept what I cannot change.</p>

<p>I concur that there are too many items on your checklist however. Just learn to use the information in the viewfinder, rather than just shooting automatically, and most of the problems become less urgent, I find.<br>

As a collector user, I shoot lots of ancient to modern film cameras, and I can tell you that there are days with a 'new' camera, ... well, let's just say not every day is completely successful. Paying attention to thingies like flashing lights is a big start.</p>

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<p>Thanks all for the great responses. <br>

Kenneth - I have yet to endeavor into RAW. I have a Pentax K-5ii and have actually been shooting digital for a few years (though just getting back into it more regularly), but RAW always scared me a bit because I don't like to sit and do extensive processing on each shot. I'm getting close though. Color mode is usually 'natural'</p>

<p>Larry - Great points. I like to shoot wildlife as well, and understand you can't always anticipate settings. I guess my main point to wanting the checklist is to make myself aware of the settings I should be checking, and insure I didn't leave something in a setting I don't typically use. And the camera does have one of those RAW/JPEG buttons, which I need to experiment with.</p>

<p>Rob - If I forget my pants, I can't be helped. Definitely good advice to check the viewfinder. Sometimes I'll just fire away without having paid any attention to it.</p>

<p>Andrew - I've definitely done the high ISO thing and haven't done the daylight savings time thing. In fact, I may need to go check that now. I don't mess with white balance as of yet. I've also pressed the shutter button with all my might wondering why it wasn't working, only to eventually realize I'd exceeded my shutter speed or the focus light was blinking Enjoy your shoot Saturday.</p>

<p>Renee - Ah yes, I now fondly recall the days of learning to drive a manual non-exploding Ford Pinto, particularly one of my first solo drives after getting my license when I returned home in a cold sweat from nearly stalling the car with each start, only to realize later I was trying to start from 3rd rather than 1st. And then there were the times I'd go to press the clutch and hit the break instead. Nearly sent gramps flying through the windshield once with that one.</p>

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<p>JDM, that's exactly the thing I'm trying to avoid. I'd beat myself up royally if I had done that, life threatening or not. I never shoot in auto mode even if it might get me better pictures. Could never justify the expense of all that equipment to the little lady if I did that.</p>
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<p>Ah, Grasshopper, you must learn calmness and serenity, see <a href="http://alcoholism.about.com/cs/tools/a/102297.htm">link</a>. :| It applies not only to its original audience, but also to those who "worry too much".<br>

Fortunately, the results at 3200 were not so bad as you'd think, and a lot of them were indoors where it was not at all bad.</p>

<div>00c9aZ-543547784.jpg.32141748b8aca9418c187a4104c55fb8.jpg</div>

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Before digital, some cameras such as the Minolta 600si had its dials set up so that they were all horizontal when the

camera was set at the default settings. That was handy for identifying quickly a jostled knob. These days you have to

learn to scan the data in the viewfinder looking for something out of place occasionally. For most cameras, you can leave

the settings alone once you go through them and only concern yourself with a few settings. Then you just have to concern

yourself with "problem controls" that are easily (and accidentally) engaged -- case in point the record button on the Nex-7

or its exposure adjustment dial.

 

 

Sit at home on the couch and go through all the settings with your manual deciding what the default should be. If your

camera can save all the settings to a user mode, do that so you can quickly set it to a known default for you. If not,

concentrate on a smaller list of settings like ISO, mode, exposure adjustment (if manual or A or S), etc... just the ones you

want to change regularly. Then get used to scanning the data on the back screen or viewfinder for something out of place

and review the results you're getting to see if something is wrong (magnify to look for sharpness and histogram to look for

exposure issues).

 

 

You will learn if any controls on your camera are "issues" for you -- if they are easily changed when you don't intend to

and you will know to keep an eye on those specially. Good luck.

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<p>Hi Bill. I've worked with chain photography outfits quite a bit, and typically the person who won't use a checklist before a job is a problem waiting to happen. Once they have a big screw-up, they're usually willing to use the checklist.</p>

<p>I think your checklist is a good idea, but there is probably a simpler way. Most modern DSLR cameras have some sort of an overall info or status screen, which shows the most important settings. I would suggest that you either photograph this (if you have another camera) or sketch all the symbols on a sheet of paper. Before an important job, compare all the icons. If anything is different, make sure you know what it is.</p>

<p>It may be that not all of the icons on the status screen are important. In that case, you might be able to find some sort of pattern to review. For example, perhaps the first seven icons in a clockwise pattern are, so for a quick check, you just count through them, and specifically note if each icon is ok or not. If you spend an afternoon with your camera manual, looking up each of the icons and how to change them, you'll probably become a lot more familiar with your camera. (If you want to test yourself, perhaps your brother can change some settings, then you try to find and correct them.)</p>

<p>I've seen people shoot entire (important) events at the lowest resolution setting, and shoot without a memory card among other things. So if you're not intimately familiar with the setup, I'd suggest to periodically pull up a past image and zoom waaay in to make sure you're getting what you think you are. I think you're on the right track, though.</p>

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<p>I'd suggest to split the checklist into various smaller charts. - When I'm aware I'll have an assignment the day after tomorrow I SHOULD start charging batteries. - Here I have 2 decent chargers for 4 AAs and 2 bodies + 2 flashes eating a set of 4 and as others pockets that should hold also charged spare sets. (The LiIons for the other body seem much less hassle, topping the one in camera while getting my self ready is usually an option) I've never seen a decent charge gauge on any electric device I had. - I mean like a modern car's computer predicting you 'll make *number* of further frames for sure instead of "Full /start worrying / game over". So I guess carrying a spare battery is pretty essential.<br>

I try to empty my cards before I'll go out again. Old paranoid routine workflow: download to PC #1, download to PC #2, delete files.<br>

First of all I'd split it into "weird" & "default" settings and keep in mind to get out of "weird" as soon as I store my camera away or am done with whatever demanded them. Some settings seem obviously meant for special situations / lenses? - Make going back to default a habit when you use the "regular" lens again.<br /><br />Other settings are constantly flowing depending on your environment I'd guess?<br>

"weird" for me: AF =C // JPG / TIFF // green "tipsy gran" mode // MF // exposure compensation (on camera) centerpoint AF ( I see no use in it. One body wants me to make AF point & mode selection in a settings menu, since it takes ages to do so I never get that camera into anything besides AF S and selective or auto for points, with external levers AF C might be worth a trial for "sports") <br /><br />Since Bill mentioned he is shooting a Pentax with direct AF settings access via levers: I suggest getting used to all those little levers somehow on a blind / subconscious level, like changing gears in your stickshift car, maybe keep the AF spot on Auto and become able to switch to sel while attempting to get a portrait right without lowering the camera? - If the "studio" seems too dim for your outer AF spots go to centerpoint and reframing? - Move back to Auto selection and continous AF while you raise the camera to shoot kids kicking a can after the previous outdoor portrait? I would try to program my brain to take care for the AS lever as soon as I mount my camera on a tripod and switch it back on as soon as I take it off again. Those seem the only moments to deal with it at all. I'm not aware of AS spoiling handheld 1/1000 sec or faster while shooting the f1.4 lens wide open on a bright beach.<br>

I might set the WB to "flash" and camera to manual while working at home with strobes, but I would set that back as soon as I plan going out. - Anyhow one benefit of shooting RAW: wrong WB can be fixed easily during conversion.<br>

"default" for me = RAW (= PEF)// AWB // AF = S // antishake on // AF point either "center" in Selective or "auto" // shutter priority (maybe with auto ISO) I believe I use sRGB and "neutral"/ default setting for all the color tweaking options. (I do the tweaking at home on my screen not in the field on display; RAW seems the only thing working with my worst camera) - My metering is on multi segment. When things get nasty I take the Lunapro out and set the camera on manual or check my histogram and try to compensate (in manual mode)<br />I'm no friend of the recent Pentax program curves, they seem too insane shutterspeed heavy for my own taste. Thats why I use shutter priority with a safe speed for walking around & shooting handheld.<br>

Over the years I used a lot of more or less unmetered cameras. - That way I am kind of "exposure aware" which means a) curiously reading out what my camera measured for the current shot, b) I try to figure out basic settings - ISO & shutter speed to start with, before I even raise my camera. So I hope I am not too likely to shoot a short lens at ISO 6400 all bright day long.<br>

After arriving at a concert with all my DSLR stuff besides well the DSLR itself, I figured out that I need a way to check my backpack packing. I ended with a huge light snaphook in the tieing string of the pack. That hook is supposed to hold all camera lightmeter monopod straps, which I can tell apart easily by their looks.<br /><br />Part of my preflight check at home: time and date (some camera doesn't seem holding those without battery very long), Battery & card inside? - AWB & RAW?<br /><br />Next checks would be environment related ones... Finding the appropriate lenses to spread over the bodies, Adjusting ISO and shutter speed to my handheld walk around metering or guesswork, digging flashes out etc.<br>

Battery & card come to mind when the action slows down, I usually check if its time for a change now or soon. - My smallest cards hold less than 20 frames, which is still enough to photograph something for ebay or to do somebody's passport picture or with the odd lens on the 3rd body and I am such a cheapskate that I use really sluggish SDs when I am just walking through a city / landscape on vacation. - I'd swap those against faster ones in case I'd smell fast paced action, to reduce buffer flushing time. - So inserting a card is a camera setting too. Batteries can be similar. - Do I bother about rapidly self discharging NiMhs (Knowing that I'll shoot a lot would be a reason) or do I go for the Eneloops that hold their charge pretty long?<br>

BTW: there are semi annual safety checks to do too: If you use NiMh AAs anywhere: get yourself a decent charger able to measure each cell's (remaining) capacity. Keep a felt marker next to it and mark all faulty cells. Usually its just one out of each pack, no bad idea to buy several similar sets at once and weed faulty cells out.<br>

If you changed lenses in the dirt and never needed to peep your pixels it might be time to do a test shot if your sensor needs cleaning.</p>

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<p>Bill C, great idea. I'll have to take a closer look at my status screen to see what it reveals. <br>

Jochen, way beyond the call of duty! Thanks. Getting intimately familiar with the camera is something I've been trying to do (without making the wife jealous). Really appreciate you sharing your default settings. I've been wondering about those as well.<br>

Dieter and Dan, thank you. I rarely bracket, usually preferring to use AEL after metering different parts of a scene, but bracketing would probably be a lot easier. Hopefully I can dispense with the checklist as well eventually.</p>

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<p>I think that it would be useful for you to think about what your camera's <strong>Rest Position</strong> should be: and then rigorously execute that as a protocol.<br>

Always return your camera to the <strong>Rest Position</strong> between shoots. <br>

Knowing exactly where the camera is at, when you pick it up from your camera bag or cabinet, you then can focus on what changes to those settings the shooting scenario requires.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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<p>William W, yes, that's exactly my intent in developing this checklist - to always have the camera at the same starting point, which would typically be the settings I use as my defaults, understanding that they will be changed as needed. I'm trying to avoid things like having my focus point on the side of the frame then wondering why the damn camera isn't working correctly, or shooting an entire day's work at 3200 ISO, etc. - unless that was my intent of course.<br>

So, my main focus in asking the question was to find out what settings people typically forget to reset before going out on a shoot. I think I have plenty of info to work with in developing my checklist now, plus a lot more. Well worth the $25 yearly subscription fee I'll be submitting shortly. </p>

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<p>I never go on a shoot without my dSLR's user's manual. These beasts are just way too complex, and I can't memorize those 500 page manuals.</p>

<p>On my D200, there are four banks of custom settings. I set each one up for different shooting situations, such as one for landscape, one for street, etc.</p>

<p>Here are some examples from other users.<br>

http://www.nikonians.org/dcfp/user_files/85597.pdf<br>

http://www.outthereimages.com/images/D200_Setup_Guide.pdf</p>

<p>Did I say that these beasts are complex?</p>

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<p>Bill, picking up on a just a tiny part of your first reply.... RAW is not scary. There is really nothing scary about it, and whoever made it sound like it's a big ordeal, a lot of work or whatever clearly never used the current day software that exists for RAW. Conversion from RAW to usable JPEG files is not a lot of work at all.<br /> Apart from the fact that in-camera JPEGs throw out data, and RAW does not, in the context of your checklist is also removes some more things to check (colour space, colour modes, white balance). You can correct white balance safely and easily after the fact - that saved me some photos more than once. On the digital cameras I've owned without RAW, without a doubt, White Balance was the biggest pain.<br>

And sure, I've forgotten the ISO more often than I care to admit. Still happens every now and then (very often, that is). Luckily, modern DSLRs are very forgiving up to ISO 1600 and I hardly ever exceed 1600.... But yes, nowadays I usually notice the shutterspeed is way too fast :-)</p>

<p>Other than that; I agree with the notion that a lot of it is habit, and agree with William that it's best done upon returning home (clean the camera, set to your defaults, copy/backup photos, verify copies and backups and next format memory cards). Sometimes you need a camera in a rush, and checking the list at that time is no option - so do it as soon as possible.<br>

<br /> All the other settings - well... the more I use my camera, the less I find I use all those. Out in the "field", it's aperture, ISO, shutterspeed, metering mode - but I leave those as they are as they show in the viewfinder anyway. Occassionally change AF modes, flash modes. That's about it. So, out of the gazzilion settings in the menu, I actually only use 3 or 4 of them.<br /> Robert's notion of the custom setting banks - I have those set up too, and they reset all settings I care about to whatever is set for the custom setting bank (one for regular shooting, one for action to change the AF behaviour). It's very convenient, in my view. Not sure if your Pentax has something similar though. If it does, set that up, as it will shorten your checklist an awful lot.</p>

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