Montana and Yellowstone in Early October

<p>My sister finishes up a summer job in Mammoth Hot Springs in early October, so I am taking a train out there and driving back with her.<br>

Folks have posted on fall in this area, but the posts are now several years old, and expectations for fall color and wildlife are often based on summer weather - temperature, precipitation, etc - and recent trends.<br>

I will be arriving in Whitefish, Montana the first weekend in October, and will spend that weekend seeing Montana sights - Flathead Lake, Glacier National Park, National Bison Preserve, etc. I will then spend 5 days in Yellowstone before proceeding to the Grand Tetons and Jackson Hole on the way back to the east coast.<br>

From everyone's reports, I could normally expect.....anything from snow to Indian summer to a normal fall.<br>

Does anyone who lives in that area have an idea what early October might be like this year?<br>

Has anyone been to Montana and Wyoming at this time of year in the recent past and can offer me some advice on what to expect? What sites would be most likely to yield outstanding photo ops? More importantly, where should I avoid?<br>

Naturally, I can only bring a limited amount of gear with me, as I will be riding the train out, and my sister will have a lot of luggage on the car trip back. </p>

<p>You can expect anything from snow to Indian summer to a "normal" fall. The weather is extremely variable. As far as I know no one knows with any degree of accuracy what the weather will be two weeks from now let alone in October. The best advise that I can give is to bring "layers" of clothing - you can add to keep warmer or remove to be cooler. A good Goretex jacket will protect you from rain and provide additional warmth if you experience a cold snap.<br>

I would recommend making hotel reservations now because the choice and lodging availability is more limited in October than in the summer months.<br>

It should be a great trip - no matter the weather. Enjoy.</p>

<p>Thanks. I have already booked my rooms. My sister warned me that I might end up in Gardiner, which would severely cramp my sunrise shooting time, if I didn't book early.<br>

The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, which fetches premium prices during the peak season, was surprisingly reasonable during the shoulder season. In Yellowstone, I have a shared bath room at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel for a couple of nights, then I get to stay in the dorms for a pittance as my sister's guest. We'll be out of the park by October 10.<br>

I figured I would need layers, but knowing a little about the expected weather makes it easier to choose among the bewildering number of places to visit. I have a physician friend who plans trips to the minute, which is crazy. If I have to do it on the fly, that's the way it will be. I like to prepare somewhat, but surprises often make for the best experiences.</p>

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<p>I spent late September in Yellowstone, Tetons and early October in Montana last year. The snow came on 1st October sufficient to dust the hills and make visibility sometimes a bit restricted. We only touched central and south Montana , not Glacier. Mornings in places like Butte were very cold and we were getting ice off the cars most mornings. This was by no means severe snow at road elevations but I was still pleased we'd rented 4x4 as there was snow on the road on the passes. Days were anything from cold to "light fleece" weather.</p>

<p>I imagine you will miss the best of the foliage in the Tetons if you're not getting there till almost mid-October. Certainly in late September the OxBow bend and Moulton Barns shots were far to busy to be pleasurable. You might be luckier. I have to say that I found the thermal features in Yellowstone far more interesting than the landscape generally, there or in the Tetons.</p>

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<p>Thanks, David. Great advice. I will definitely make lots of alternate plans for Montana, as it sounds like a high possibility of detours and closings. Fortunately, there will be daylight as the train makes its way though Glacier, so I won't miss it entirely even if roads are closed the next day.<br>

There always seems to be a tradeoff at YNP/GTNP; you get crowds at the prime times, and have the place more or less to yourself when conditions are less ideal. I am not so much about getting so-called iconic shots, though my cousin said when you see these stunning places, you will want to photograph them despite the fact everyone else has. I hear the fall is good for wildlife, so I rented a teleconverter and will pass up some landscapes to try my hand at that, though I hear the first time shooting animals is always frustrating. <br>

I will be staying at Mammoth, so I will take your advice and rise early for the thermal features. As for the transport, I will be stuck with my sister's psuedo utility vehicle, a Honda CR-V (it never ceases to amaze me how the car makers have successfully marketed garden variety station wagons as sport vehicles). Since she is from NC, I bet it does not have the all wheel drive upgrade, but I'll ask. In any case, she has made several ranger buddies, who will be able to give us good advice on what is open, what is treacherous, and what is closed.</p>

<p>For the last five years I have spent several weeks in Jackson Hole from mid September into the mid October, with side trips north through Yellowstone and Glacier NPs. Each year we had snow in October and freezing evenings, but also daytime temps into the upper 80s through the end of September. Peak color in Grand Tetons is at the end of September and beginning of October, but a rain/snow/wind event will drop the leaves off the trees. One inconvenience of fall visits to the parks is the closure of lodges and campgrounds which makes planning for accommodations more important. Snow (or the forecast of snow) may close park roads and force a change in plans.<br>

Check out Miles Hecker's photoguides at wyophoto.com for a starting list of good sites to visit in the parks. <br>

If you itinerary permits, spend time hiking on the trails. Photo opportunities will be there. <br>

GTNP has closed several roads including Schwabacher's Landing <:-( so you have to hike down for that iconic Grand Teton sunrise photo.<br>

Peak fall color aside, in early October you may see spectacular vistas of fresh fall snow and clouds on the peaks. Snow on the ground provides a new and interesting landscape for wildlife photos. Buffalo get a natural ground-level reflector that lightens the dark coat and brings out detail. In Jackson Hole, the buffalo are out on the Antelope Flats and Gros Vente roads.<br>

On your travels out of Jackson Hole, head south before turning east. You will return into fall color zones - particularly at lower elevations. I recall leaving Jackson in mid October after a cold rain and snow that removed the last of the fall color from the trees and finding color and vistas in the mountains between Alpine WY and Ogden UT (Rt. 39 east of Ogden, and Rt. 34 between Freedom WY and Preston UT are scenic alternate routes).<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p><em>I like to prepare somewhat, but surprises often make for the best experiences. <br /></em><br>

<em><br /></em>There you have it! I live in Bozeman, and have driving in the snow my entire life. The weather will be about what you described: "anything from snow to Indian summer to a normal fall". Dressing in layers: decent hiking boots, a couple of warm hats, gloves for general warmth, and another pair of light gloves for photography on chilly mornings.</p>

<p>An all-wheel-drive vehicle with good tires will provide you with safe travel, although we natives drove around in the snow in rear wheel drive cars for years with sand bags in the trunk. Yes, we did get stuck, but we know how to get un-stuck. Good tires and good driving skills usually does the trick.</p>

<p>When in Glacier NP, I hope you are able to drive the Going to the Sun Road. As far as hikes and photography in Glacier or Yellowstone, there is so much information on the www that you can easily have a good general plan. I like the NPS.gov websites for trip planning, and keeping an eye on the weather. When in the National Parks, just stop in a ranger station and visit with them about your photography ideas, hikes, and any wildlife notices. In Yellowstone, a visit to the many thermal areas around Old Faithful will have you amazed, and photo opportunities abound. More: the Grand Loop, the Yellowstone River canyon and waterfalls. Things to avoid: close encounters with wildlife, falling off a cliff, falling in the water -- hot or cold.</p>

<p>When driving from Glacier NP to Yellowstone NP, you will have an opportunity to get off the freeway, and take the road less traveled. Yes, Flathead Lake is pretty, but it is a developed area. If you head south to Missoula, you will be on I-90 doing 80 mph to Bozeman.</p>

<p>Here is an alternative route: Take the two-lane highways from Browning to Choteau to Wolf Creek, early in the morning. The morning sun will be illuminating the wilderness mountain ranges as they rise out of the grassland plains. It is not always easy to pull over on the narrow highways to take photos, but there are some pullouts. Stopping in the small towns of Choteau and Augusta along the way gives a good Montana flavor. After Wolf Creek, I-15 will take you along the Missouri River to Helena, then Highway 287 will take you to Three Forks. You can stop at Missouri Headwaters State Park for a break, and see some Lewis & Clark history. Then, it's on to Yellowstone NP! It's a beautiful drive from Bozeman to Livingston to Gardiner.</p>

<p>http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/fall.htm<br>

http://www.nationalparks.org/explore-parks/glacier-national-park<br>

http://www.yellowstonegeotourism.org/map.php</p><div></div>

<p>You'd be wise to catch some of the majot thermal features early in the day, as thats when the steam is most dramatic with the hot vapour touching cold air. Later in the day is good for colours of the thermal features themselves. There's a section on "Thermals" on my website <a href="http://www.photography001.com">www.photography001.com</a> and you'll see quite easily the shots made early in the day- by which I mean in the first hour or so after sunrise. At the Midway Basin you might even see groups of bison walking through the hot water in the run-offs. </p>

<p>Wow! I love photo.net. <strong>Thanks</strong> for all the great advice, especially for alternate routes, best time of day for shooting, etc.<br>

I enjoyed the links and photos as well from David and Christopher. Good photographs always inspire. There <em><strong>is</strong></em>a lot on the www; that is its beauty and its downfall as a resource. I appreciate when someone points me to the best sources because I can fumble about on the rest of the web knowing that I might find a gem, but if not, I am still covered. The best sites also warn you about bad advice you might be getting elsewhere. I am finding a lot of uniformity on most topics, particularly keeping your distance from the critters.<br>

Along with Trey Ratliff's great app "Lost on Earth," I should have plenty of resources.<br>

If anyone wants to follow my prep and adventures, just go to guyjordan.wordpress.com .</p>

<p>I heartily endorse David's recommendations about the thermals early in the day. The thermals are amazing enough by themselves, but the steam fog in the morning adds another dimension. Check out Grand Prismatic Spring at Midway Geyser Basin - when viewed from a position on the boardwalk that puts you just above eye level with the spring, that steam fog takes on the colors of the spring. Fantastic shot.</p>

<p>Given the amount of time you will be there, it is likely to the point of almost certainty that you will encounter snowfall. The good news is that's unlikely that the snowfall will be large enough to harm your travel plans. If you find yourself on a slippery surface, ease over a little to the right and put your right side tires on the loose gravel along the shoulder of the road - much better traction. The secret about driving snow is fairly simple - no sudden moves - do everything gradually.</p>

<p>Glacier - the Going to the Sun Road will be closed somewhere inside the park for construction (a long needed rehab project) and will not allow for you to cross from one side of the park to the other. Check with rangers as to the exact location of construction when you get there. You'll be able to enter the park from both sides on the road; you just will hit the closure at some point. To see both sides, you'll need to go around on Rt 2.</p>

<p>Yellowstone - more famous for thermals and wildlife than scenery, but be sure to get to the Lamar Valley (early is best) - lots of yellow cottonwoods and herds, maybe wolves. Also go to the Lower Falls early - check with rangers as to the best time of day and better side of the river to see the rainbow, and bring your polarizer. Look for elk along the road from Madison Junction to the west gate.</p>

<p>As already said, you'll be getting to Jackson Hole a bit late for the best color. With luck, an absence of strong rain or wind will means leaves still on the trees. And Oxbow Bend may need a crowd control system at sunrise on a Saturday morning, but it won't on a weekday morning. Same for the Moulton barn area. And if the iconic barn is mobbed, there are a number of other barns and a house from that era that can make excellent subjects, too.</p>

 

<p>I spent my honeymoon in Yellowstone and the Tetons in early October. It's a superb time to be there. Yes, you could have snow, heat, Indian summer.<br>

1. Water levels (unless it has snowed) will be low. Pros and cons--not much whitewater action, creeks are more fordable, stuff is likely to be very dry, waterfalls with less volume. I did a white-water rafting tour--just my wife and I and the guide in our raft. It took twice as long as usual as we drifted down the Snake river. Got a shot of an Eagle perched on a branch that we drifted right under.<br>

2. Be prepared for early morning shooting sessions. Mist rising off river and lake bodies with animals watering as the day starts. Steam coming off of bison early in the morning.<br>

3. And absolutely yes, yes, yes to those who suggested any of the geysers and geothermal bodies. Cool air makes them magnificent.<br>

4. Very few crowds. Service won't be as good (short staffed, fewer options, some stuff closed, remaining staff tired after a long summer). But shorter lines, less waits, easier to get in to stay at places that are usually booked a year in advance, deals on tours (for guides who want to make their last money before it starts snowing).<br>

5. Hard for me to recommend what to avoid. It's all good. In some ways it's like going to Yosemite--what one person puts as a lower priority is a "must-see" for someone else.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for the excellent and helpful responses. I'll be sure to post when I return!</p>