Dismantle Rolleiflex Bay 3 (Bay III) Rolleinar Viewing Lens

<p>Is there any subject user who has dismantled a Bay 3 Rolleinar viewing lens? This forum has an excellent article on dismantling a Rolleiflex filter, and am wondering if anybody tried to dismantle a Rolleinar viewing lens. I wrote about using the Rolleinar viewing lens attachment as a protection "filter" on a Rolleiflex 2.8 F Planar with a UV filter on the taking lens at the same time - the combination works perfectly in terms of fit, clearance, mounting, but (as pointed out by more experienced users) the combination fails in optical terms - the Rolleinar viewing lens makes the image (on the screen) OOF (out of focus). I looked at my Bay 3 viewing lens attachment (I have only this component, and not the mating attachment for the taking lens). Am wondering (based on Dennis Purdy's feedback comment for my earlier write-up) if I can dismantle the Rolleinar viewing lens, remove the rear lens, re-assemble it (keep only the front glass), I could have a protection "filter". For orientation purposes: the front of the viewing lens has text markings on the black plastic rim; mine has "R III Germany Heidosmat - Rolleinar 2". The rear lens does have a radius of curvature, and the curvature is visible. I could be mistaken, but the front glass MAY just be flat glass with zero radius of curvature (hence my reason for not calling it a lens). The rear lens seems to be held by a ring (collar) with two tiny diametrically opposite slots. I don't think the ring/collar is a pressure fitting, and it may be possible to remove the ring/collar by inserting a device (a steel plate with two projections that fit the slots exactly; must clear the lens beneath; I also see lens spanners on the web) that will fit into both slots, and maybe turn anti-clockwise. Inside the housing, I see another plastic collar with a slot for a tiny guide post that possibly holds the front glass in place.<br>

The ring/collar with the two tiny slots does not seem to rotate with nominal (= finger force) effort; the ring/collar was mounted nearly 50 years ago at time of manufacture/assembly, and is now difficult to rotate. I can try WD-40 (tiny amount); I applied Zeiss lens cleaning liquid with a Q-tip to the ring/collar and did not see any great effect.<br>

Any user experience on this subject will be appreciated. I also would like to know if I am correct in assuming that the front glass is indeed a flat glass with zero radius of curvature. Won't make much sense to dismantle the piece if the front glass is a lens and causes OOF even without the rear lens, no matter how small. Thank you all in advance for any information and feedback.</p>

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<p>I have taken mine apart for cleaning. The slotted ring holding it in can be unscrewed with what Americans call a spanner wrench. If it is not real tight you might be able to unscrew it very carefully using just one side of the slots. I know inside you will find a lens that is oriented to cause the view to go off center for the parallax compensation. If you are careful and don't scratch the lenses you could take it apart and see if it is possible to put plain glass or uv filter in there.<br>

Dennis</p>

<p>Hi Dennis: Thank you for the experience. Did a Google search (images) on spanner wrench, and I see them - different kinds. I think an adjustable spanner wrench will work fine; I wrote about not being able to unscrew with just one side of the slots. Please: would you have any experience/comment on the front "glass" being flat (zero radius of curvature), or not. Thank you very much.<br>

Roy, 13 May 2013</p>

<p>Forgot to add: Very, very likely that the spanner wrench would need to be metric - the adjustable type will work in either system - I think; I am certain F&H did everything for the Rolleiflex in the metric system - not the other system; even Britain abandoned it.</p>

<p>"The ring/collar with the two tiny slots does not seem to rotate with nominal (= finger force) effort; the ring/collar was mounted nearly 50 years ago at time of manufacture/assembly, and is now difficult to rotate. I can try WD-40 (tiny amount); I applied Zeiss lens cleaning liquid with a Q-tip to the ring/collar and did not see any great effect."<br>

Please note: the viewing lens is fixed with the side stopper-screw which is visible only after taking off the front panel of the camera. Turn it at 1/4 and then you could rotate the view lens mount in both direction for accurate adjusting the infinity image on the screen. Of course you should be sure that adjusting of the taking lens is OK at infinity. Dismantling and especially mounting of the front panel is very complicate job. You have to connect : f-stop, speed, light meter, DOF governors and the MX-lever. All of them are under the front panel and you can't see them. The firm Rollei used a huge special device for control and adjusting their TLR cameras. So, let it for adjusting to any pro. </p>

<p>This is an update on this thread, and I would like to thank everybody for all the information and suggestions. Briefly: All this applies to a Rolleiflex 2.8F Planar, all Bayonet 3. I acquired a Rolleinar #2 (viewing lens attachment only, without the mating component for the taking lens), and a Rolleiflex Bayonet 3 UV filter. My objective: dismantle the Rolleinar #2 and the UV filter, and make a "filter" attachment via this Rolleinar for the viewing lens - everything fits perfectly: one can mount the Rolleinar on the viewing lens, and a (UV filter + lens shade) on the taking lens.<br>

BE GENTLE, AND DO NOT USE MORE FORCE THAN NECESSARY - IF STUBBORN, USE WD-40 AGAIN, AND LET SOAK. I DID NOT HAVE TO USE ANY GREAT FORCE AFTER WD-40.<br>

I dismantled the UV filter: thanks to a thread elsewhere that described UV filters, I sparingly applied WD-40 with a Q-tip to the contact between the rim attachment (past the beveled ring; this has the lettering on the front surface), let soak for a few minutes. Then, laid the UV filter flat on the front (lettering surface) on a rubber strip. The rubber strip is exactly the same as a jar lid opener; I got some from my auto insurance company as promotional freebies. Keep pressed gently from the top (don't break the glass), and turn anti-clockwise the bayonet (beveled part) component. The UV filter dismantles, and there is a spring washer - stiff plastic ring, with diametrically opposite kinks, and this spring washer will not lie completely flat due to the kinks. The glass filter can be removed. Note the as-found assembly of components for re-assembly.<br>

I also dismantled the Rolleinar #2: same method as above, but more involved. This component has a black plastic item on the front with lettering, and I applied WD-40 like above to the contact between this black plastic item, and the Rolleinar #2 housing. Same arrangement as above with the rubber strip, same actions (turn the housing anti-clockwise) and the front plastic item can be unscrewed. Inside, I found a glass item - it is more like a prism than a conventional lens - this item is shaped like a circular wedge, and is flat on both surfaces; there is a small cut-out on the circumference which helps to align it with a tiny pin inside the housing. There is also a wedge shaped stiff plastic washer. I also noted the as-found arrangement of all these items inside the housing before taking them out from the housing - this helps in re-assembly. Next is the rear side of the Rolleinar #2 housing. As pointed out by the experts (see the responses), this needs a spanner wrench, and I don't have one. I applied WD-40 between the retaining ring and the housing (sure, it gets on the glass also), let soak for some time. The retaining ring has two diametrically opposite slots for using a spanner wrench. I used a flat edge screwdriver at one slot only, and applied torque in an anti-clockwise direction - never with any great force. I held the screwdriver flat edge at a small angle in the slot, and applied torque anti-clockwise - I also alternated between the slots; better to use a spanner wrench, but I didn't/don't have one. Persisted, and at one point, the retaining ring moved, and after that unscrews completely. Inside (this is on the rear side of the Rolleinar #2), I found a plastic spring washer (like in the UV filter, different diameter), and a lens - conventional type: has a radius of curvature. Noted the as-found arrangement of items before taking them out of the housing.<br>

I cleaned ALL items (glass, plastic, and housing) with lens cleaning liquid; I used a micro-fiber cleaning cloth (named MICROSTAR, made by Eiko, Ltd. of Japan) for only the glass components.<br>

When I dismantled the UV filter, I realized that the UV glass and the Rolleinar #2 glass components have different diameters; the UV filter glass is a bigger diameter. I cannot fit the UV glass inside the Rolleinar #2 housing without grinding out the UV fliter glass - I don't have the skills or equipment to do this grinding. I tried this: I removed the front glass item (wedge shaped), put back the wedge shaped plastic washer in the front, and screwed back the black plastic ring with lettering; I put back/re-assembled the rear lens in the Rolleinar #2 housing. Basically, this is the same as a complete Rolleinar #2, absent the front glass wedge item. I used this on my 2.8F - the combination works fine: can use this Rolleinar#2 on the viewing lens, and a UV filter + lens shade on the taking lens, but the image on the screen with this altered Rolleinar #2 is OOF (out-of-focus). I confirmed: removed the altered Rolleinar #2, got perfect focus, then mounted the altered Rolleinar#2, and get OOF. The rear lens re-assembled in the altered Rolleinar #2 causes the OOF - this is expected, and I was not surprised.<br>

Question: I will appreciate very much if the experts can write what UV filter size (used, inexpensive) I should buy/acquire so that I can take the glass and put in the Rolleinar #2, and replace the rear lens that I now have in the altered Rolleinar #2. <br>

I looked at the Rollei filters on the auction site - they are smaller diameter, but am not sure if they will work. I will measure the diameter of the Rolleinar #2 rear lens with a vernier calipers, and will report it soon. <br>

Thanks everybody, and will appreciate any comments and information for my request.<br>

Best regards, Roy Ramavarapu, 06 July 2013</p>

<p>Another Update:<br>

I discussed the project with an experienced (34 years) optometrist (where I and my family get our spectacles and eye glass lenses), and also showed the Rolleinar#2 and the UV filter. The gentleman spent some time with me, and here are some details. The Rolleiflex UV filter is a "plano, optically flat" (he used some instruments), and is coated, and is tempered glass (meaning has undergone heat treatment). ANY attempt to grind this glass will cause it to shatter. Also, I mentioned that I read that one can chip away the edges of the glass, etc. He said they are very old techniques, not used anymore, and also glass is not used for eye glass lenses; I think there are Federal regulations (maybe mistaken); polycarbonate material is used for lenses now.<br>

The gentleman also measured the inside lens (on the rear of the Rolleinar #2), and is 34.5mm round/circular diameter, and is +2 diopter strength; another instrument was used to measure the diameter (not the string method: wrap a string, gives the circumference, and calculate the diameter - this method is not exact). An estimate to craft a plano, polycarbonate, 0.00 diopter lens with this 34.5mm diameter, and needs to be coated (vacuum deposition, etc.) would be in USD100.00 range. The gentleman asked me to shop for a UV plano filter of this diameter.<br>

Can somebody write me about such an UV filter that has 34.5mm circular/round diameter.<br>

Thank you all and best regards.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 06 July 2013</p>

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<p>This is a final update: My project is completed. I now have a Rolleinar#2, minus the as-found lenses (the wedge shaped lens/prism in front, and the 34.5mm diameter round lens in the rear), minus the front retainer (has the lettering), and minus the rear retaining ring also. I changed tack: instead of replacing the rear lens with an UV glass extracted from a filter, I mounted a 37mm HOYA UV complete filter in the front. The 37mm is slightly loose, and the HOYA threads do not engage the front Rolleinar#2 threads. I used teflon tape (from HomeDepot, the white type) to provide some padding on the HOYA filter threads, and gently pushed it completely inside the Rolleinar#2 front housing for a good fit. The filter is fully engaged, and does not reach the tiny prong inside the housing. The wedge shaped prism/lens has a groove cut in the glass to engage this prong. To ensure that the HOYA UV filter will not drop out (it won't; I got a snug fit), I used cellophane tape that spanned the Rolleinar#2 housing and the HOYA UV filter. After mounting this modified Rolleinar#2 on the viewing lens, I can also mount a UV filter and a shade on the taking lens - it looks as if everything is in place. BTW: a great place to find filters is www.filterfind.net, and I purchased my HOYA 37.5mm UV filter from this place. Their service and suggestions were superb, and I would like to thank this place for their suggestions. They also have a great collection of filters for purchase.<br>

I will try to post some of the photos that I took to show the complete setup on the Rolleiflex 2.8F Planar (Bayonet 3).<br>

Best regards to all.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 13 July 2013</p>

 

<p>Please click on the .png, and shows the photo in a separate window.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 13 July 2013</p>

<p>One more photo of combination, and one photo of the modified Rolleinar#2.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 13 July 2013</p>

<p>Modified Rolleinar#2 (UV filter) for viewing lens</p>

<p>The view in the screen with the modified Rolleinar#2 (now has a UV filter only) is perfect - no distortion, no OOF (out-of-focus), and looks as if there was nothing attached to the viewing lens.<br>

Best regards.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 13 July 2013</p>

<p>Correction: I fitted/mounted a Hoya 37mm UV filter; my text above states 37.5mm in one place, and is incorrect. It is possible that the 37.5mm may have less play, and will take less teflon; it is difficult to find a filter in this size, with the thread pitch that will engage the front threads (where the retaining ring with the lettering goes) in the Rolleinar#2.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 23 July 2013</p>