rolleiflex 3.5 shutter button and crank stuck?

<p>Hello, I'm new to Rolleis, and apologise if I'm asking a stupid question, but I recently got a 3.5 E, and have a problem with the shutter/crank.<br>

basically, when I got it, it was fine, apparently had been serviced recently and all good, apart from the self timer, which is not an issue for me. So, I tested the shutter and it seemed fine, and the film crank advanced etc. Now I don't know what I've managed to do, but when I started to load a film, it advanced to 1, and then the shutter button and crank seemed to lock, and now neither want to move at all. I haven't forced anything (always been taught to take a softly-softly approach) and I'm left scratching my head as to what the issue might be. <br>

Do I need to try loading a film again to release the mechanism? I have a YashicaMAT 124, and so I'm aware of the basics of the forward/back wind to cock the shutter, but I'm really stumped here, and hoping that there is a simple answer, something I've missed or don't know about. <br>

I would be overwhelmingly grateful if there is anybody there who can tell me what I've done wrong/what I need to do to get it working!</p>

<p>Many thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Henri,<br>

Since you say you are new to Rolleis, are you aware of the shutter button lock? It is around the shutter button, and rotates into lock or unlock position.<br>

Other than that, I am not aware of an answer to your problem.<br>

A manual can be located here:<br>

<a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_3_5/rolleiflex_3_5.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_3_5/rolleiflex_3_5.htm</a><br>

Small contributions for the manual are appropriate.<br>

Jack</p>

<p>Are you sure the shutter lock is not locked.<br>

There is ring around the shutter release that rotates to lock the shutter and prevent accidental depression. That along with the film being wound will cause the symptoms you describe.</p>

 

<p>It may be that shutter lock. Don't you have to rotate the crank backwards on these a half turn after you've advanced the film before you can take a pic? As for the self timer, don't use it. They're another swell way to lock up an old camera.</p>

<p>Yes, be sure to rotate the crank backwards after winding. And at first, go ahead and flip the crank over so the knob rests in the hole. This way you can be certain that the crank hasn't been moved forward. Even though it won't wind, it can lock the shutter if it is bumped forward from its ideal back-wound resting spot.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>It may be that shutter lock. Don't you have to rotate the crank backwards on these a half turn after you've advanced the film before you can take a pic? <em>As for the self timer, don't use it. They're another swell way to lock up an old camera.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Seems like sound advice at face value, but let's take a logical look at the issue.<br>

The timer fitted to these Synchro Compur shutters is operated by an escapement similar to that used to provide the delay for the slower shutter speeds. So if you want to suggest that the timer should never be used, you could say the same thing about those. The reason timers will sometimes stick is usually due to a lack of use. I've had a few refuse to run down by themselves before a service, but I can't say I've ever had one terminally jam a shutter (I have in the case of a Compur Rapid shutter, but that is a different mechanism and the speed was set to 1/500, which is not advised, anyway when setting the timer). In every instance a little gentle jiggling, tapping or manipulation of the arming lever was sufficient to persuade it to run down fully. The likelihood of a sticking timer permanently jamming a Synchro Compur, requiring a stripdown to release it, is vastly overstated.</p>

<p>If the timer in your S-C is working properly, the best way to keep it that way, is to <strong>use</strong> it. If it's sticking, get the shutter serviced, as the chances are the remainder of the mechanism probably needs it. If it's working well presently, and is never exercised, that's the best way I know of to guarantee that eventually, it <strong>will</strong> stick. And if you have one that's not working, it is probably because the previous owner applied conventional wisdom, too. It's almost a self-fulfilling prophecy.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The reason shutters and self-timers stick is not lack of use per se. It's accumulation of dirt/contaminants and degraded lubricants. This can happen if a shutter is in use or out of use. The best way to ensure no problems is to keep them properly serviced. Synchro Compur shutters are precision clockwork, more so than most shutters. That is what gives the impression that they are tempermental. Not true, they just like to be clean and properly lubricated. Often it is best to try to predict when the shutter will start sticking and get it serviced beforehand! That way there is never muh of a chance of the self-timer jamming... and as we know, if the self-timer jams so does the rest of the shutter.</p>

<p>Henri,<br /> The shutter is cocked by the backward movement of the crank. So long there is no film in the camera it is possible the turn the crank both forward and backward as far as you wish. Once there is a film in the camera both movements are limited in their travel. What may have happened is that the shutter is not fully cocked at the end of the backward travel. In that case the camera will be blocked and releasing the shutter will not be possible. Without film, the crank can be turned further backward and then the shutter will be fully cocked and you will not notice this fault.</p>

<p>If this is what has happened the transport mechanism has to be adjusted.</p>

<p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Brian, the timers should not "jam", unless they've been forced. They can stick, though, and if they do, they can nearly always be unstuck, providing they're not forced. I agree old lube is a part of the issue which is why I recommended servicing one manifesting the need. Having said that: servicing will be needed sooner, rather than later, for a shutter that is not in regular use--and this includes the timer escapement.</p>

<p>Yup, no disagreement there!</p>

<p>I commented only because there seem to be many instances on the itnernet where this exact discussion happens and people think that an old camera now malfunctions (runs slow, sticks, or whatever) only becuase it has not been used, yet the reason it has not beeen used is because it started malfunctioning.</p>

<p>Your message is the same as my message: service your gear when it gives the slightest indication of needing servicing!</p>

<p>Yup, no disagreement there!</p>

<p>I commented only because there seem to be many instances on the itnernet where this exact discussion happens and people think that an old camera now malfunctions (runs slow, sticks, or whatever) only becuase it has not been used, yet the reason it has not beeen used is because it started malfunctioning.</p>

<p>Your message is the same as my message: service your gear when it gives the slightest indication of needing servicing!</p>

<p>try here for more information:<br>

<a href="http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/">http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/</a></p>