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100mm Planar + Extension Tube OR 120 Macro


capocheny

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<p>Greetings all,</p>

<p>With the advent of Spring just around the corner, the notion of photographing Spring flowers have popped into my thoughts.</p>

<p>At present, I have a 100mm Planar. However, I've come across a 120mm Macro for sale at a reasonable price (it's not the CFi version, which suits me fine].</p>

<p>Thus, the question is, "should I consider purchasing the Macro lens?" </p>

<p>[i know that this is suppose to be one gorgeous chunk of glass!]</p>

<p>(Having not shot a lot of macro images... I'm thinking at most 1:1 as the outside magnification and always with camera on tripod.)</p>

<p>Pros and cons? </p>

<p>Thanks for your informed replies.</p>

 

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<p>I am not sure the 100 is intended for the macro region. I use the 120CF with the 32 tube taking butterflies on flowers handheld with available light, and the photos are marvelous. The out-of-focus areas are smooth and dreamy. Sometimes I use the 56 tube, but with extra care in locating the right focus point. I don't think I came close to 1:1. I suggest getting the 32 tube as a start.</p>
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<p>Hi M.,</p>

<p>Thank you kindly for your response. Yes, you're quite right in that the 100 Planar isn't intended for macro work. </p>

<p>But, since I'm not looking at going 1:1... </p>

<p>I suppose I'll just have to get out there with the 100 and experiment to see what kind of magnification it'll give me and whether I like the results or not. If I don't, then I guess the 120 will be my next lens acquisition. :)</p>

<p>I realize it's a bit of an awkward question that I'm asking. </p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

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The 120 mm Makro-Planar is undeniably better at close range, and offers another choice in focal length at all ranges.<br>But you could use the 100 mm Planar with tubes, and it will be fine too.<br>If funds permit, and you could use another focal length, get the 120.<br><br>Do you know the <a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTCuC.aspx">online close-up calculator</a>?<br>Playing with that thing will give an idea of what you can do combining tubes with the 100 mm lens. Yet you'll only get numbers, and nothing beats going out and seing for yourself. ;-)
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<p>Hi Q.G.,</p>

<p>Thank you for your comment... and, thank you for the link to the close-up calculator. Unfortunately, I'm not one of those people that do well with calculators. I'm more of a hands-on, go out, shoot, and see for myself kind of guys. :)</p>

<p>(This posting arose from the opportunity to purchase a 120 Planar at a reasonable price. And, the decision has to be made by tomorrow afternoon. Hence, the reason for this less-than-thoughtful posting. So, apologies for it. :>0)</p>

<p>Rather than rush into the purchase, I think I'll take your suggestion to go out and play with the Planar with the tubes and make my decision afterwards. :)</p>

<p>Thanks again. </p>

<p>Cheers.</p>

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In my experience, the bellows are not so good for work up to 1:1.<br>The maximum (!) field of view you can cover using a 100 mm on bellows is 9 cm / 3.5" square; 1:1.6 scale. The front lens to subject distance is only 7.5 cm / 3", with most of the automatic bellow's rails still poking out in front of the lens.<br>Tubes are less flexible, but will ease you from infinity to where you want to be through a quite usefull range up to where the bellows start.
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<p>The 120mm Makro is ideal for flowers and stuff, because it gives you up to 1:4 magnification without extension tubes. A lot of time, that's the only lens I take when walking through the woods. A 100mm lens will probably give good results at low magnification (1:4 or less), but the working distance is rather short. When using extension tubes, I prefer to use a longer lens, like a 180, for the added working distance and narrow angle of view for background control.</p>

<p>It's nice to have a complete set of extension tubes, which can be stacked as needed (2 or three anyway). Just remember to assemble them from the camera out, and disassemble them from the lens inward. Otherwise they may jam.</p>

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<p>Hi Jerry,<br />I hadn't thought about the bellows unit but since I'm going to be traveling with this kit, it will need to be as compact as possible. Thank you for the suggestion. :)<br /><br />Q.G., Edward,<br />Just the information I was looking for... thank you both very, very much. :)<br />Having the working distance makes a lot of sense to me. So, it sounds like the 100mm Planar would work best at low magnification. Adding a tube will reduce that working distance even more...<br />The longest lens I have is a 150... so, that would increase the working distance moreso than the 100 Planar.</p>

<p>Time for me to get out and do some experimenting!<br>

Thanks for sharing all this terrific advice... you guys are the best!!!<br /><br />Cheers.</p>

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Hi all,

 

 

Just a note as a quick follow-up on what I've decided... I went down to see the lens and couldn't refuse it. It looked like it just came out of a display case. So, naturally, like bees to honey, I couldn't refuse.

 

 

Now, I'm looking forward to taking it out and giving it a go!

 

 

Do you guys use a lens hood with it? I've got a spare 150 hood (somewhere) in my office... would it work or...

 

 

Thanks again guys! :)

 

 

Cheers.

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Hi Q.G.,

 

Normally, I'm in the same boat as you and seldom, if ever, shoot without a hood. So, I'll have to play with the 150 hood on the 120 and see whether there are any issues. I'm sure that using the 100 Planar hood on the 120 wouldn't cause any issues because it has a wider angle of view than the 120.

 

Therefore, I'm wondering whether there might be a bit of vignetting on the end product.

 

Thank you... I did keep your advice in mind when I was looking at the lens. :)

 

Best regards.

 

Cheers.

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As long as we are taking about the fixed hoods: Hasselblad only made one for lenses from 100 mm and longer (upto and including 250 mm. The even longer lenses came with their own hoods). So there are no issues to be feared when using that hood that was also meant to be used on the 150 mm lens on either 100 mm and 120 mm lenses.<br>What version of lenses are we talking about? C, CF, or CFi/CFE? Hasselblad did sell one marked "150", but it is one for C lenses, having a bayonet 50 mount (the same hood was later sold marked "100-250"). Later lenses (CF and on) need a bayonet 60 hood, and there never was one marked "150".
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