Dismantle/remove & re-insert glass in Rolleiflex Bay 3 filter

<p>Would anybody have information on how to or have actually removed the glass intact from a Rolleiflex Bayonet 3 filter. Following this, the removed intact glass needs to be put back/re-inserted into the same filter. <br>

I am providing some background information. I followed the threads on mounting two filters simultaneously on the taking and viewing lenses - mainly for protection purposes, and found out that the design of the Rolleiflex does not permit this. There is not enough clearance for the second filter on the viewing lens from the first filter mounted on the taking lens (assume no force/crushing of the filter rims is involved). I read on another site where a user machined (using a grinding machine) out filter rim material to create a flat edge on the lower part of the rim of the filter for the viewing lens, and created clearance from the filter on the taking lens. The same user suggested that it would be safer to remove/dismantle the glass from the filter housing before the grinding process, and re-insert the glass into the housing. There was no description on removing/dismantling from, and re-inserting the glass back into the filter housing.<br>

There is a seller from Korea on an auction site offering a Bay 3 UV filter with the lower filter rim machined out, and has a flat edge; there is also a photo showing the clearance from (presumably) the filter on the taking lens. However, I am not sure how this auction site filter actually works in actual use as I have not purchased it. There are different variations and cost from about USD50.00 to USD80.00 (shipping is extra).<br>

Any information on dismantling/re-inserting the glass will be highly appreciated. I don't wish to start grinding the rim as the vibrations may shatter the glass inside the Bay 3 filter housing.<br>

Thanks and best regards to all.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 14 April 2013</p>

<p>You can file away the metal instead of using a grinder. That way you won't potentially damage the glass.</p>

<p>John Tonai: Thank you for the suggestion; I think your suggestion is conservative and safe. Hand filing the metal (it is aluminum and soft) avoids handling the glass. I can cover the glass portion in several layers of cloth; I will also provide some backing for the glass by inserting some shock absorber material (styrofoam, cloth, something that will minimize vibration effects) into the filter hollow portion against one side of the glass, and on the other side of the glass also, wrap in cloth to expose only the work portion of the filter rim. This backing will also prevent from pressing on the glass directly while hand filing. Then, can hand file the metal. Will report on this when completed - will take some time to get started and complete due to work load.<br>

Also, got some information from the seller WayneLee72 (from Korea on the auction site). If the viewing lens filter AND Germany Rolleiflex hood AND Rolleiflex lens cap are to be used simultaneously with the taking lens filter mounted, the filter type is the one priced at about USD78. The viewing lens filter + Germany hood + taking lens filter mounted without no cap use is about USD48.<br>

Thank you for your suggestion.<br>

Best regards. Roy R.</p>

<p>The answer on opening up Rollei Bay filters-<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/rolleiflexandrolleicord/discuss/72157632555753989/</p>

<p>The source is a seller on Ebay who very nicely offered this info for posting on Flickr, so I will maintain the link rather than post the info here.</p>

<p>I bought a cheap Bay III glass filter and took a sanding drum to it to shape it. On a Dremel tool. The lens hood also needed a little section taken back. Here's the result:</p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2691/5864915551_2c791acb2d_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="461" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3283/5865467016_50f6aac4ff_z.jpg" alt="" width="476" height="640" /></p>

<p>I'm sure you could do something similar to a Rollei filter.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think Dan's fix looks great. Looks very professional. But I would also say that the chances of scratching or otherwise damaging your top lens are probably slim to none w/ a hood on the camera. Oh, it could happen, but I doubt it would. That lens is already recessed quite a bit.</p>

<p>Regarding the Korean made recessed "UV" filter, I got one.<br>

#1 it isn't a UV filter, it is just plain glass.<br>

<br />#2 it is recessed so to put it on and take it off you must use friction from your fingers on the glass. I used surgical gloves but it was almost impossibly difficult as the filter was such a tight fit. When it came to taking it off so I could put on a Rolleinar I got frustrated by the difficulty to the point that I nearly through the filter in the ocean.</p>

<p>#4 the filter is recessed enough to put on with another filter on the taking lens but it sticks up just enough to make it nearly impossible to put a lens shade on the taking lens.</p>

<p>All that was enough for me to decide to put the filter in a drawer and forget about it.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

 

<p>steve mareno- the reason I made that filter was because I like to carry the camera in a bag with the hood attached, rather than have to take the hood on and off (and lens cap off and on) as I move the camera from and to the bag. I also made a 'lens cap' for the hood to protect the taking lens from dust while in the bag. So the filter and hood as you see it in the photos are on the camera almost all the time.</p>

<p>Just a personal preference, coming from a bit of obsession about lens scratches and a bit of clumsy fingers dropping the lens cap and/or too many times while changing them over.</p>