Motodrive

<p>I shoot film and I'm considering using a motordrive. Anyone have any experience with this? Most of what I take pictures of is more streetscapes (never anything with identifiable people). I do get angry people from time to time.</p>

Sounds like a fairly static subject matter not really requiring a motor drive.

<p>Something's fishy in how you framed the question... </p>

<p>It's for ergonomic reasons. I use a Mamiya 645 pro TL. For reference I worried about noise from the motordrive spooking people.</p>

<p>I used motordrives on my FM2N and F3HP several years ago for all kinds of candid photos - street, in bars, nightclubs, etc. Same with the Nikon D2H dSLR. And my Canon T70 35mm film SLRs had noisy built-in winders - no way to detach them or turn them off. The only time noise might have been an issue was when photographing theater performances so I used a homebrewed blimp box. Can't recall the size, noise or frame rate ever being an issue with anyone.</p>

<p>On the rare occasions someone had an issue with my photography it wasn't about the motordrives, it was about taking photos in general. The last significant incident I can recall offhand was in downtown Savannah in 2004 while the G-whatever summit was being held on Sea Island, miles away. A cop said I couldn't photograph some building or alleyway. Same area I'd photographed a week earlier using color slide film, and wanted to repeat with b&w. Not really the cop's fault, just the usual combination of hyper-vigilance and lack of clear mission or direction. Pretty funny side anecdote: a little while later I saw that same cop posing for snaps with an elderly couple.</p>

<p>Anyway, if you encounter people getting angry, it's usually not about the camera, motordrive, or equipment, but something else.</p>

<p>And I emphasize "usually". I did recently read a sarcastic travel tips column in which the writer chastised American tourists whose oversized backpacks bumped people on sidewalks and public transportation. And the writer seemed to think big SLRs spelled "rob me!" I'm doubtful, but I tend to prefer smaller gear for travel anyway.</p>

<p>If you're in an unfamiliar area, ask around to get a feel for the place. Talk to shop employees or other folks who are regulars in the neighborhood and try to get a sense of how folks might react to photography. I don't behave the same way in my own neighborhood as I do in my city's touristy areas. I take photos of people in my neighborhood, but not in the same style. If I want to take portraits or close ups of faces I'll chat with them first. Sometimes I snap pix without asking but it's usually from a distance for the effect of having a silhouetted figure in some nighttime lighting that appealed to me at that moment. When anyone notices I take it as an opportunity to chat with them about it. If I was in an unfamiliar neighborhood elsewhere in my town I'd take a little time to get a sense of the place.</p>

<p>Here's the type of thing I take pictures of.<br>

(I couldn't get images to work, link below)<br /><a href="http://johncox8703.zenfolio.com/p439365299/e46c620f2">http://johncox8703.zenfolio.com/p439365299/e46c620f2</a></p>

<p>Usually I get away undetected. I'm unsure if a loud grinding will change that.</p>

<p>From the linked example, Jon, you do realize that your subject have no way of knowing (or care) what the photo looks like. Only you, the shooter, can see that. Whether the person is identifiable in the picture is moot...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Noise, some drives are noisy but it hasn't stopped me from taking pics. I did use an MD12 I think it is on a FE2 and the shutter and drive would make people turn their heads alright. But then I already had the pic:)</p>

<p>It's not moot. Most of the people I take pictures of probably don't want to have their picture taken, -so I don't make them identifiable in the shot. I don't have any way of showing them that they aren't going to be visible in a picture. However if they know they are being photographed they may get angry. So I'm apprehensive about drawing attention to myself with a motor drive.</p>

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<p>I don't have any way of showing them that they aren't going to be visible in a picture.</p>

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<p>Therefore it's moot to them (because they can't see the OVF/pic), I don't know how to spell it out any clearer here.</p>

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<p>so I don't make them identifiable in the shot.</p>

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<p>Again, how will they comprehend that?</p>

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<p>Again, how will they comprehend that?</p>

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<p>That's the point, they can't comprehend that if they can't see the shot. That's why it's not moot. If I had a LCD I could show them there was no harm or delete the photo. It's not possible here.</p>

<p>If you believe the motor drive noise is the main problem, try a quieter camera. But if you want the larger medium format negative and convenience of automation, you may just need to get comfortable chattering with people and getting their cooperation, permission or at least some form of acquiescence. </p>

<p>Some folks I photograph don't express specific agreement or permission. Sometimes they just shrug indifferently.</p>

<p>People are just people. Doesn't matter whether you're using a camera or just trying to strike up a conversation with a stranger. Most of the time everything is cool. Occasionally folks don't want to be bothered at that moment. That's life, but it's not specific to photography. It's inherent to being human. Heck, even animals may take some time to befriend. Took me a year to win the heart of my neighbor's skittish, barketty dog. Now we're best buddies. It helps to extend at least the same consideration toward people as we would a dog we've never met before. They might bark at you today and be a friend next week or next year.</p>

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<p>That's the point, they can't comprehend that if they can't see the shot. That's why it's not moot.</p>

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<p>It's moot to them because they can't see it. John, you are thick and dense...</p>

<p>Try the black Canon EOS Elan 7 series. A very lightweight camera on the smallish size. Fast focusing and <em>very</em> quiet motor film advance and rewind. Run a little black tape over the shiny CANON logo and use a prime lens and you'll have a very unobtrusive, light weight street shooter that can fire as fast as you like without drawing too much attention to yourself.</p>

<p>John, try carrying copies of prints from your earlier sessions. Show 'em to folks when you're explaining what you're doing. I did that for years when I shot only film. I just tucked a dozen or so 4x6 to 5x7 prints I'd made into a pocket in my bag. I still do sometimes, although occasionally I just leave samples of my photos on a media card and use the digital camera itself to show samples.</p>

<p>More recently I've also used a Kindle Fire HD to show some of my medical documentary photos (a great tip I got from Brad last year). Occasionally I photograph people in and around hospitals, but only with their understanding and agreement. They have a right to expect some privacy and consideration and it helps if I can show them some sample photos to give an idea of my approach.</p>

<p>Thanks Lex I hadn't considered that. I do have a business card I have been giving out but this is better. </p>

>>> I shoot film and I'm considering using a motordrive.

 

Why a motordrive? What would the benefits or advantage be?

 

>>> I do get angry people from time to time.

 

That may be related to your approach and behavior. Working on that, also approaching people for

conversation and portraits once in awhile can pay dividends in your candid photography - they're very

synergistic. I also carry 4x6 prints, usually to give to people I expect to see again and have handed out

hundreds over the years. Like Lex said, they're good for showing others what you're really about.

 

What focal length lens do you use? How long have you been shooting on the street and in what city(s)?

<p>Most 35mm film SLRs made since the mid-eighties are motor driven. Never was a problem for me shooting on the street with a N8008.<br /><br />I agree with Brad that this is about you and your approach, and not about a little buzzing sound.<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>While I am not sure whether a motor drive would be a factor in getting people angry at you but I can't see why you would need a motor drive for you type of photography. Even with the motor drive such a camera is slow any how.</p>

<p>As I said before I want the motor drive as a grip not a mode of film advance. I could do without the auto wind feature. I'm not worried about people getting angry with me, I'm worried about drawing attention with the loud whirring of gears. </p>

<p>I just had a look at the battery grip / power drive and I understand how it might add to ease of holding the camera. If you want it just to make the camera more steady how about shooting with it attached but without batteries? That way you don't have the noise from the power drive.</p>

<p>There's no way of winding with it attached other that the Motor drive.</p>

<p>I don't know that camera, but I doubt it's louder than the advance and mirror slap of a Pentax 645N. That thing is quite loud (though I love the camera). But if people are involved in their own activities, I don't think the sound will register with them as much as it might have 10-15 years ago. If there's a way to try one out and return it if it's too loud, that might be a good option. Subjects will likely notice you because of behavior rather than sounds, I'd think.</p>

<p>What kind of Motor Drive 35mm or medium format. Unfortunately they stopped making motor drives a long time ago. You can probably still find them used on eBay, or KEH. I purchased 2 from eBay(Nikon MD12) quite a while ago and they both conked out on me within 2 months. So if I was you I would stick with KEH. When they do work they do speed things up a bit, but they also are big power hogs. You needed about 8 AA alkaline cells to run the thing and the batteries just do not last very long. At least mine didn't. The good thing is that these days they have rechargeables so good luck with that. </p>

<p>I seem to remember the noise being half the fun.</p>