question about PQ lenses vs non-PQ

<p>Hi all!</p>

<p>I am looking to purchase a MF camera with WLF and some kind of metering system.<br>

I think I will get a Rollei 6008 Integral 2.<br>

I want a 50mm lens to complement the normal 80mm. I guess i must go with the Distagon 50 f 4 HFT,<br>

but I cannot see how to differenciate between PQ and non PQ lenses.<br>

Could you help me please?<br>

Also regarding mirror slap, what is the minimum shutter speed I should use you to get acceptable<br>

sharpness handheld ?</p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

 

<h1 > </h1>

 

<p>Christa,<br>

For the PQ, PQS, EL the lens will have the type printed next to the f-stop. (PQ & PQS in red; EL in white) Those three types function the same on 6003/8 series. The EL uses 67mm filters while any other lens, including HFT type, uses Bay VI. (A Rollei-manufactured lens for the 6002 series has some difference. I'm not completely sure but I think these use 67mm filiers also). Lens hoods fit all lenses.<br>

HFT lens (more accuratlely, non-PQ) have the same optics but different functionality on the camera. Non-PQ type lens don't include the electricial signal for the f-stop thus will not support fully automatic operation;i.e. setting both the lens and shutter speed to "A" so the camera can determine f-stop and speed. For shutter priority the speed is selected on the camrea, the non-PQ lens set to "A" and exposure shows in the viewfinder. For aperture set the f-stop and change the shutter speed on the camera using the exposure value in the viewfinder.<br>

As far as mirror slap & hand held operation you will find the camera works quite well. I don't know how to quantify since I've never encountered a problem. </p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Thank you Joseph for your kind answer.<br>

Excuse me, but as my english is not so good, could you confirm that I will need special Bay VI filters for PQ lenses. I guess there must be some kinf of bay VI to 67 mm adapter tough...<br>

Also if I understand correctly, I should get a PQ lens in order to work in aperture priority mode, is that right ?</p>

<p>Thank you again!</p>

<p>Yes, any lens for your 6008 will use bay IV filters <em>except</em> the EL lens which use 67mm screw-on filters. Adapters - bay IV to 67mm - are commonly available although at a slight expense. Some like the adapter because 67mm filters exceeds bay IV when considering cost and availability.</p>

<p>I'd imagine the 80mm lens supplied with the camera is a PQ lens. If you want other lens to work the same as the 80mm then you will want PQ-PQS-EL lens. Aperture priority mode works<em> automatically</em> with PQ, PQS, EL otherwise you must use set the HFT lens f-stop then set shutter speed manually. The PQ series work so much nicer.</p>

<p>HFT lens may cost a little less than PQ so another reason to consider but since you have the best camera of the series I'd think you would want a PQ lens.<br>

Joe</p>

<p>Unfortunately Joseph's second response changed the filter size to Bay 4(IV) instead of the proper Bay 6(VI). Heliopan makes an excellent Bay VI to 67mm adapter(solid brass). PQ and PQS(1000th second) will give quickest response with full electronic information in the camera viewfinder. Non-PQ(S) lenses can be used as stated in shutter-preferred mode by selecting shutter speed(1/500 or slower) with the lens set to "A". Manual exposure or Aperture-preferred can be obtained in the "stop-down" mode requiring the depth of field preview button be pressed first. In any case the response time is slightly slowed with the Non-PQ type lens but for most applications is negligible. I use a Non-PQ 40mm f4 and a 250 f5.6 without much difficulty but do have the 50mm f4 PQ, 80mm f2.8 PQ, 80mm f2.8 PQS, and 120mm f4 PQS with my cameras. HFT refers to the lens coating-"High Fidelity Transfer" equivalent to the Zeiss "T" coating and all lenses are HFT. With these later model cameras the mirror "slap" would be negligible.</p>

<p>Floyd,<br>

Oops. I did switch my Roman numeral from VI to IV. How do you say "bad proof reading" in Latin?</p>

<p>The PQ lenses starting coming into production around 1990. I'd recommend them for the 6008. If you happen to come across a non-PQ at an incredible deal, perhaps consider it but over time, you will want only PQ lenses. The other great thing about PQ is that they are fully compatible with Hy6, so if you move into that arena, you can take them with you. Focus confirmation on the Hy6 allows easy and confident use of these manual lenses. My stable started back 20 years ago (PQ only) and is still relevant and of very high quality. The PQ lenses have a very long life ahead of them. </p>

<p>Hi all!</p>

<p>Thank you for your kind answers!<br>

I have just purchased rollei 6008 Integral 2 + Zeiss 80/2.8 planar (PQ I guess.. ) + 2 backs and 2 batteries for what seems a nice price!<br>

I now need a wide angle lens, I think a 50 will be good. What are my choices?</p>

<p>Have a nice week-end!<br>

Christa</p>

 

<p>Sorry, I mean 40mm</p>

<p>On the wide angle lenses - there are three sizes - the 40, 50 and 60. In the 50, there are several different versions, I think the Zeiss has been around the longest and may be the least expensive. In general, the Schneiders are a bit stronger, and I consider their 60 Curtagon one of my most favorite lenses ever. Their 40 is also very good, but maybe wider than you need. <br>

On mirror slap - one of the joys of the Rollei system is the ability to mirror lock up and shoot with the leaf shutter. Without that, its hard to get under 1/50 handheld, maybe even faster. But with that MLU life is a lot easier.<br>

Consider using a monopod - you can get another stop easily, maybe more. </p>

 

<p>Thank you Geoff!</p>

<p>I am hesitating between 50 and 60. I could live with a sole 35 (in 35) focal length, and as I intend to travel soon with this monster, a single lens would be simpler and lighter.</p>

<p>However, concerning the 50, I am wondering how much better is the FLE vs non-FLE ? price different is huge...</p>

<p>Also, I'd love to have some advices bout Schneider lenses vs Zeiss...</p>

<p>The wide angle lenses are as stated, 60mm f3.5 PQ Zeiss Distagon , 50mm f 4.0 Distagon, regular PQ and EL and PQ-FLE, 50mm f2.8 Schneider Super Angulon PQS, 40mm f3.5 PQ-FLE Schneider Super Angulon and Zeiss Distagon 40mm f4.0 PQ. The 60mm would be most similar to a 35mm in 35, the 50s would be like a 28mm in 35 and the 40s would be close to a 21mm in 35. All the lenses are very good. The FLE lenses offer improved close focusing with the floating lens element with extra adjustment required. The EL lens offers 67mm filter attachment instead of BAY 6 but same optics as the basic lens without FLE. The 50mm f2.8 Schneider offers more speed but at huge sacrifice for one f stop being vastly more expensive and almost twice as heavy and huge 95mm filter instead of BAY6. In the 40s the Schneider is slightly faster and has a slightly better reputation than the Zeiss if you want to split hairs. The Zeiss is very good(I have the older version!) To complement the 80mm f2.8, the 50mm f4.0 is the most natural addition and is very good and least expensive.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Christa congratulations on your purchase. I love my Rollei 6008i. It really is a joy to use.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have to make a few comments. The EL I think were an economy line of lenses. Optically they are identical to the PQs of their time. But they had less engraving and no Bayonet 6 (VI) filters. Depending on the focal length the cost of PQ lenses is so low I saw no reason to go with an EL lens. The Bayonet system is nice to work with. No stuck lenses. Lenses snap on and off very quickly and easily. There are cheap Bayonet VI to 67mm adapters out there. I use one for my polarizer since I haven't found a good cheap Bay VI polarizer.</p>

<p>There is also another rare variety of lenses out there for the system. They are called Rolleigons. Optically they are different, but allegedly they are supposed to be excellent lenses as well. Build quality wise they lack the bayonet VI filter attachment. I stayed way from Rolleigons because of this.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The Bayonet system is nice to work with. No stuck lenses. Lenses snap on and off very quickly and easily.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Sorry I meant no stuck filters.</p>

<p>In general, the Schneiders are more contemporary designs - they were formulated later, and are more compact designs. Two friends have both of many different sizes, and both prefer the Schneiders. It is worth noting that the distortion (and yes, there is a wee bit in both if you are an architectural shooter) is easier to correct in the Schneider as simple barrel distortion, where the Zeiss are known for their "mustache shaped" distortion curve. <br>

The Zeiss have a lovely look and are fine lenses. They are similar to the Hassy lenses, and many people have used them for years with great fondness. That said, the Schneider package group of Rollei lenses is recognized as being a highpoint (and probably the last of its kind) in lens design for medium format cameras. They were developed in packages - early on (c. 1990) Rollei had them competing with Zeiss, and the models curiously overlapped - like the 40, 50, 60, and 150. Then came a group of newer ones, a wonderful group of lenses, such as the 90 macro, the 180 2.8 Tele Xenar and the 300, amazingly sharp: I have a shot of logs in a river at about 100' with the 300 and spider webs are sharp at 100% viewing. FWIW, I've compared the 90 macro to a newer Rodenstock 90 HRW (a very good current digital camera lens) and the Schneider (15 years old) is just a wee bit crisper. These lenses basically give nothing up to any other lenses, save maybe the Leica S. One other thing - the 1.4 Tele-extender works really well with the 80, 150, 180 and 300 - you can't really tell when it is being used, its that good. I shoot a lot with the 80 and the 1.4, a simple 110. <br>

In the wides - the 60 Curtagon is my go-to lens for travel, and has served me well for many years. The 50 Schneider AF is fun and fast, but too heavy, the 60 just lovely. The 40 is also fine, if you want that width.<br>

The 50 Zeisses (?) are nice lenses too but priced lower. I don't have experience with the FLE, but if memory serves correctly, its better close up than the other Zeiss, but still not better than the Schneiders. I'd avoid the Rolleigons and the EL lenses. One other thing: the most important aspects of these lenses are condition and the shutter. If they have been badly stored or not well taken care of, they may have to go get their leaf shutter addressed. Its not horrible to do, but something to think about. Take your time, buy quality, from someone reputable, and test the lens before paying. Good luck!</p>

<p>Hello<br>

PQ or not PQ on integral 2:<br>

non-PQ lens date of 6006 and previous model. Amps use in shutter are very different in SLX, 6006 and 6008 rollei. PQ lens use up to 10A current, SLX may use 6A and 6006 use 8A. By crossing generation of body and lenses is absolutly not a good idea because you will damage the electronic bord of the body. (the problem is not "IF" but "when") Maybe changing fuse on NiCd by the good one could reduce risk...<br>

There no optical difference between PQ or non-PQ lens, Distagon 50f4.0 will be the same. (same as zeiss/blad version except it's polished and coated by rollei...)<br>

"Old" ROLLEIGON was made by Tokina for 6002 and was EL-non-PQ lens.<br>

"new" EL lens are PQ-like and made for 6001<br>

Actual Rolleigon, Apogon are same as zeiss design except that they don't have to pay zeiss patend...<br>

Schneider>Zeiss? I hope I have more Schneider than zeiss, all are HFT (so made by roillei too?) and color-rendition look same.<br>

Mirror slap? do the test yourself: set 4 to 30 sec speed and press the buton... The mirror move at the end of the exposure and "not" at the start. I sometime use miror up buton handheld when I have an external ref, like buble level or wall... it works well. On integral, you have selftimer but it not up the miror...<br>

50F4.0 rollzeiss? sorry I have not this lens. I have the S.A. 50F2.8 that is well balanced on the 6008 and easy to use, but lenshood is a "boule de pue" to carry.<br>

Filter mount? not realy a problem as you use what you need? B-VI is a good standard as 67 or 95mm... The problem for me is more a cap problem as there no metal-cap in B-VI. Rollei snap-on cap are good but not easy to find...<br>

J.Ph.</p>