Replacing 80-200 2.8 for 70-200 2.8?

<p>Hello,<br /> Lately I find I'm missing shots with my D700 / 80-200 2.8 (two ring).<br /> This occurs mainly when I'm shooting bands/artists on stage (lowlight) and I'm trying to lock focus using the AF-ON button, but then the shutter just won't fire. This happens seemingly random and most of the times I am able to take the next shot (or the one after that).<br /> I'm also experiencing this with my 180mm 2.8<br /> The camera is set to focus priority and I mainly use static, single point AF.<br />What bothers me is that this problem seems to be more prominent the last few gigs. It happened before, but just occasionally.<br /> I noticed already a year ago that the lower left AF sensor of my D700 isn't working, but since I never use that point I didn't bring it in for service before.<br /> My questing is: is it worth replacing the 80-200 with a 70-200 VR1?<br />(I'm not a paid pro, but am using the opportunity to build a good concert/portrait portfolio)<br /><br />Mind you: I'm not unhappy with focus ACUITY or the focus-SPEED of my current lens, nor is it hunting, and I like the feel and build quality of this AF-D lens (although the AF/MF ring won't lock anymore, but taped tight works fine otherwise), but sometimes it just doesn't seem to focus at all and the shutter won't fire like described above.<br /> What do you think? Will a 70-200 solve this problem or do you think it has to do with the camera?<br />(since it also happens with my 180 2.8)<br /> BTW: I'm aware of the vignetting of the 70-200 VR1, but I could probably get this lens used for 1000 euros and for my style of shooting it's not a problem.<br /> Still, it's a lot of money for me and I would have to sell a perfectly good D2H, 80-200 and a 20-35 (or 180) to finance this...<br /> Thank you for your time!<br />Ray</p>

<p>An issue could be that you have chosen an autofocus sensor that is a line sensor and not a cross sensor. That would make it harder for the camera to find and lock focus. The sensors towards the edge are line, those close to center is cross. The D2H has 9 cross sensors and only the far left and right sensors are line, hence it will focus better near the edges of the frame.<br>

Since the 180, 80-200 and the 70-200 are all f2.8 lenses, they should all be equal in finding focus but the 70-200 has slightly faster focusing speed. I think your problem is more of a technique/camera problem than a lens problem. An option to try could be continous focusing with release priority and autofocus only on the af-on button, not on the shutter release. But, as said, keep to the centre autofocus sensors in low light and poor contrast.<br>

Also see this post: <a href="00RWJC">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00RWJC</a></p>

<p>Since you are having the same problem with more than one lens and since the problem seems to be escalating as of late, it may just be the camera. Do you have another body you can test the lenses on under the same shooting conditions?</p>

<p>As far as AF points, the three center columns of AF points are cross type sensors and are the only ones you should use in very low light. While it is rare, if I have trouble getting AF with my D3 using one of those single points, I choose the 9 point dynamic AF mode using the center point as the center of the group and it usually resolved the problem.</p>

<p>If you have been happy with your lens up to now, it is probably not worth the lens upgrade - just get it fixed. But if you need VR, yes, it is worth the upgrade. Keep in mind that if the focusing issue is the camera, the new lens will likely exhibit similar tendencies. You really need to find out what the problem is before you do anything.</p>

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<p>The camera is set to focus priority and I mainly use static, single point AF.</p>

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<p>The focus might have changed between the time you press AF-ON and the actual capture. I would try changing your Custom Setting a2 (and a1 for continuous) to Release Priority and see whether the problem goes away. However, while you may be able to take more pictures, there is the risk that more of them could be a bit out of focus.</p>

<p>You need to experiment to see what works best for you. I am not sure changing the lens is the answer here.</p>

<p>Your problem isn't likely to be due to the lens, so changing the lens would not seem the most likely answer to me. Certainly not worth selling gear for, in my view. I think the point raised on the AF points makes a lot of sense - for testing purposes (if you can get away with it), use only the centre one.<br>

Another thing to verify for yourself, in these low lights condition, is there enough contrast for the AF to work with? I notice sometimes the AF even won't get started in such conditions, rather than hunt. I have both 2-ring 80-200 f/2.8 and 180 f/2.8, and experienced it with both on occassion. But this would only make sense if the conditions in which you shoot have changed.<br>

A last thought - my 180 f/2.8 sometimes would not focus regardless of conditions on my D300 (on my D700, so far so good) - and I had to fiddle with the crappy AF/MF selector on it to make the AF system "lock" again, after which it worked fine each time. My 80-200, no such issues, but given yours lost its AF/MF selector, maybe it's a bit the same problem. Maybe somebody more technical than me can explain better, but it seems like there is play in the system that "disconnects" the AF drive, making the lens inadvertedly MF. As my D300 showed this problem, and the D700 not - it could also be the contact points on the body, or the screwdriver of the AF not locking on with heaver lenses properly - I'm not sure, hopefully somebody else can shed more light on it.</p>

<p><em>focus priority </em></p>

<p>This is probably what is causing your problem. The camera won't fire if the active AF sensor is not showing a subject in focus. Set the camera to focus+release priority and preferably AF-C (continuous focusing). This way you can press and hold on AF-ON until focus is achieved and then recompose at will and the camera won't complain if the subject is no longer in focus or under the focus point.</p>

<p>The D800 does this differently; it lets you take shots even in focus priority when the subject is no longer under the sensor. Or so I've read; since I use focus+release priority I haven't tested it.</p>

<p>As per the difference between the 80-200 and 70-200, you will find the newer lens a bit sharper but pay with adverse flare. I was a bit disappointed with the 70-200 the first time I shot with it with the sun close to the lens axis or within the frame (sunrise and sunset shots). I thought the 80-200 had better flare control.<br>

As you shoot stage events this might be a problem.</p>

<p>If you do decide to try a different lens I recommend considering a used Nikon 80-200/2.8 ED AF-S. Fast AF, very sharp, and no CA.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br />Thanks for your replies. Glad to hear nobody seems to think a 70-200 will be a solution to this problem.<br />I already use the AF-ON button instead of the shutter release button for focussing, but I will experiment with AF-C and 'focus+release' as per Ilkka's suggestion and stick to the centre focus point (or at least the 9 cross sensors) in really dark/low contrast sitautions from now. Will also check if the last gigs were indeed more challenging (darker) than before...<br /><br />And maybe a check-up/servicing (AF-sensors, electronic contacts etc.) by Nikon wouldn't hurt either.<br>

Thanx again!</p>

<p>I second the idea to look into a good used AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8D. Optically, I think it is the finest zoom of the 70 or 80-200mm range that Nikon ever made. I was lucky enough to find one of the very last new ones still available a few years back, and it has become one of my top 5 favorite lenses. Built like a tank, with lightning fast AF on my F5.</p>

<p> Get the AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8D great lens no matter what anyone else here things.</p>

<p>I agree with Robert,I also got one of the few last new one's just last year,it is a terrific lens on my D800,very contrasty and very sharp.</p>

<p>Check out the just released Nikon 70-200mm f 4.0 VR. There is an excellent review of it and comparison of it to the 70-200mm f 2.8 VR II Nikon by E. J. Pieker at www.naturescapes.net<br>

Joe Smith</p>

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