I think I killed my OM10

<p>Hi guys, I picked up an OM10 today, and things seemed to work fine. Until I put it on self timer and the mirror got stuck. I have no film in it. Another thing: Is it suppose to have foam on the backdoor? There is nothing there now.</p>

<p>Here is an old thread about the same problem: <a href="/olympus-camera-forum/007Cxd">Link</a></p>

<p>I don't know how fresh the batteries that came with it are, they are the SR44's.</p>

<p>PS: Now I understand how some of you would emphasize the ergonomics of a camera. Coming from a D300 it is not easy to get a good grip on a camera like this!</p>

<p>Do you think I have to get into the camera to fix the stuck mirror? I know next to nothing about film cameras...</p>

<p>Anne. there should be a strip of foam on the flat surface of the body of the camera by the hinge, and there should be foam in the grooves at the top and bottom. There should also be a strip of foam on the door itself near the latch, and on the mirror bumper.<br>

<br />The first thing of course is to try new batteries. Does the battery check work?</p>

<p>You have to have a fresh battery before you proceed. Dead batteries will lock up the mirror on other OM cameras.</p>

<p>These used a manual adapter, that plugged in to allow a 1/60th default. But everything else is power dependent. These were sort of like the Nikon EM, of the OM line. A consumer grade auto machine that allowed access to all those great OM lenses.</p>

<p>John, there might be enough foam then. I can see the foam you are referring to, except the one on the mirror bumper, because I don't know where that is :-)</p>

<p>The batteries worked in the other positions and right up until I put it in the self timer position. Now with the mirror stuck, I can't see anything in there. So I don't know if it is dead or not.</p>

<p>Steve, there is not much to control here, unless one buys a manual adapter. Oh well....that is how little I know about the film cameras. It didn't even occur to me that it would only have a program mode.</p>

<p>I think I found the mirror bumper. There is foam there.</p>

<p>The mirror bumper is the strip of foam inside the mirror box (behind the lens) which the mirror hits when it flips up. Look under "Mirror Damper" here - there are actually pictures of the OM 10, and lots more stuff about foam replacement by Jon Goodman:<br>

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html<br>

By the way the old thread you pointed out is about the OM2 which is a <em>very different</em> camera from the OM10. If you get it working, and get used to the controls, you will certainly find the large bright viewfinder a revelation compared with your Nikon.</p>

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<p>Thank you, John. That was very helpfull. I will buy new batteries tomorrow, if they are available here.</p>

<p>It sounds logical to me that the self timer would draw more power and in so doing will point out weak batteries by locking up. You must buy new silver oxides. Olympus cameras need <strong>fresh</strong> batteries. I've purchased new ones from camera stores that were too weak for an OM. They must have been lying around in the store too long.</p>

<p>I really hope that is the problem, George. I hope they sell them here - and that they are fresh.</p>

<p>ANY store that sells watch batteries should have SR-44/S-76 silver oxide button cells. They are as common as dirt.</p>

<p>The SR44 is sold by Duracell as size 303/357. Available from a multitude of retailers, including WalMart.<br /> http://www.duracell.com/en-US/product/303-357-battery.jspx<br>

-<br>

<img src="http://i-store.walmart.ca/images/WMTCNPE/62/326/62326_Large_1.jpeg" alt="" width="300" height="300" /></p>

<p>Okey, thank you Michael.</p>

<p>Also check your local Dollar Store for 357/SR44/LR44/AG13. I can usually find name brand and off-brand import button cells in cards of 6 to 24 for $1. Most are the alkaline version, but sometimes thay are silver oxides which hold a more consitent voltage longer than alks which tend to drop considerably in a short period of time ( two to three months lifespan, tops).</p>

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<p>I'll look out for that, Gabor. The way to go would preferably be to buy the silver oxides then. Usefull information. Thank you.</p>

<p>Stick with silver oxide. Some cameras may operate erratically with alkalines. All the OM series except for the ones with mechnical shutters are somewhat voltage sensitive. When we sold Olympus at the family camera shop we had new OM-10's returned for miror lock up, but replacing the alkaline cell with silver solved the problem.</p>

<p>Ditto on the silver oxides. I put an S76 in my FT2 over a year ago and it's still good.</p>

<p>I found the silver oxides today, and the OM10 miraculously sprung to life and is no working like a charm. Yeaaahhh!<br>

It remains to be seen if the foam is good enough, but it doesn't look too bad. So now I just have to make the big leap and load the camera with film (I have to order film from some Internet store.)</p>

<p>One or two other things I should mention since you are new to this camera. When you take a shot, the exposure system reads the light that strikes the film and closes the shutter when the correct time for the exposure is reached. Olympus pioneered ths OTF- Off The Film- exposure method. If you play with the OM10 without film in the camera, before you press the shutter button a meter takes a reading NOT off the film since the film is still behind the shutter curtain, and not exposed yet. Your viewfinder might read something like 1/4 second, and when you press the shutter the camera's shutter might stay open for a long time and not the 1/4 second you think it will because without film, the meter then reads off the black film pressure plate. If you are doing this "dry shooting" in a dark room it could be a long "exposure". These long exposures is what drains batteries fast also.</p>

<p>The other thing I want to mention is the OM10 was known to have shutter problems. Just maybe--- When you take a shot after a long period of storage or not using the camera, that first shot could be way off the proper exposure and may be useless. Just keep that in mind and if you pick up the camera after a long layoff, maybe take two shots of your first photo subject.</p>

<p>Anne, you owe us some shots!<br>

Use the ever ready case if you have it, this helps to prevent light leaks.</p>

<p>George, okey. Good tips.</p>

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<p>Anne, you owe us some shots!</p>

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<p>John, I sure do. Eehmm, keep in mind that this is my first try with a SLR...This is scary stuff! I do not know how to do this at all.<br>

I'm afraid the camera didn't come with an ever ready case (I had to bing that), but I will remember to use that for other cameras if they do come with one. Good tip! It did come with a cute little flash, though. The T20.</p>

 

<p>I'm glad that was the problem. All the electronic shuttered OM's , go dead as door nails w/o a battery. Shoot in bright sun, allowing the sun to hit the body at all angles. Any resulting fogging will reveal bad door seals. If the seals are bad, they're easily replaced.</p>

<p>Examine the camera inside the film chamber with a bright light. Look for any disintegrated foam that might be hanging around in there. Once it goes "goo" , it can find it's way into the shutter , etc. This is easily cleaned with denatured alcohol or similar solvent and a cloth.</p>

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<p>Shoot in bright sun, allowing the sun to hit the body at all angles. Any resulting fogging will reveal bad door seals.</p>

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<p>Will do, Steve.</p>

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<p>Once it goes "goo" , it can find it's way into the shutter , etc.</p>

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<p>Oh no...scary stuff. I'll check it to the best of my abilities. Thank you, Steve :-)</p>

<p>Congratulations Ann.</p>

<p>The OM-10 is a very easy camera to use. You should not be scared or intimidated at all. About the only thing you could mess up is the focus. But the viewfinder is so nice, focusing these is a breeze.</p>

<p>Since they have a lighter construction than the OM-1 through OM-4 my advise would be to avoid using a power winder on them. And don't rip the film advance too hard and fast. Just keep it simple and you will have a lot of fun.</p>

<p>-Bill</p>

<p>Actually I am not quite sure when focus is obtained, Bill. The little dot in there is not easy for me to see. Time will tell how well I am able to focus.</p>

<p>I focus like I tune a piano. Go a little too far one way, come back a little too far the other and then settle right in between :)</p>

<p>But my eyes this past year have made it very hard to focus so now I just guess a lot...</p>

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