15 Exposure 120 Film Back for Mamiya 645 AFD

If you were addressing me.

I have a Rollei. My film is flat.

 

Until I hang it up to dry, then I get an edge to edge curl.

Do you have any suggestions to solve that?

Richard, why is that a problem? What do you wish to do with the film once it's processed?

Put it in a negative carrier and enlarge it.

 

A couple weeks in a print file sleeve in my binder flattens it.

But I want to print sooner of course.

<p>Richard,</p>

<p>I don't do any optical enlarging/darkroom work, so I'm afraid I don't have any suggestions.</p>

<p>I can tell you though that for scanning, 35mm anyway, I have built my own holder for my Minolta Dimage Scan Elite 5400, incorporating my own film flattening techniques using some special material. One can also use anti-newton glass <strong>if</strong> the light source is diffuse enough. This is why anti-newton glass plays well with the LS-9000.</p>

<p>Out of curiosity, why don't you use a digital workflow incorporating scanning? <br>

-Rishi</p>

<p>Meaning, Richard, a proper scanner + sharpening yields much better results than optical enlargement. Read: <a href="http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF2.html">http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF2.html</a></p>

<p>Of course, if only a scanner at a reasonable price/weight point existed that got all the resolution & dynamic range off of Velvia...</p>

<p>hello all<br>

I have read all you answers. Here are my findings with these cameras:<br>

1. hasselblad a120-aeroshooting: every third or whatever amount of images were unsharp-unsharp zones. hasselblad told the slit had to be covered with tape. beforehand i exchanged the elx with contax rts III due to that problem... crazy wrong decision. <br>

2. tomiyama 612-press-mount. we had to improve film-tension to get better flatness. was not easy since some parts could not be removed.<br>

3. anthony sansone told me one should load film in the last moment before shooting. <br>

i will use 70mm-film on rb67/70mm back with vaccum. on rz67 first. there is an adapter to use it on 4x5.</p>

<p>Wanted to update this thread for the sake of posterity:</p>

<p>I did get a modified HM401 film back from Ramesh at the MAC Group. It had one roller removed, and put lots of extra spacing in between film frames. <strong>It solved</strong> the film flatness issue. However, it had 2 problems:</p>

 

<ol>

<li>Due to the increased spacing, I only got 13-14 exposures per 120 roll</li>

<li>There was a constant current draw of ~27mA even when the body was off. Compare that to 0mA draw with an unmodified HM401</li>

<li>There was a constant current draw of 150mA when the body was one. Compare that to 100mA draw when on with an unmodified HM401</li>

</ol>

<p>So, I got that replaced with yet another modified HM401. It does not have the battery/current drain issue; however, it puts less spacing in between frames (and is *actually* a 15 exposure film back... rather than a 13-14 exposure back due to the vastly increased spacing between frames). I was worried that with the less spacing I'd still see the bend introduced into the film within the exposure area... turns out it seems fine. I let film sit in there for days, then advanced one frame; the film looked flat. Perhaps just the removal of that one extra roller takes care of all the bending problems.</p>

<p>If you want to try & get a modified HM401 back to deal with the film flatness problem, you need to contact Ramesh at the MAC Group (<a href="mailto:PatrickS@MACgroupUS.com">RameshP@MACgroupUS.com</a> according to http://www.mac-on-campus.com/AboutMACOnCampus/MACGroupContacts.aspx). I would try calling 914.347.3300 (according to their website: http://www.macgroupus.com/).<br /> <br /> Ask for Ramesh, and ask about the modified HM401 film back that has one of its rollers removed and puts extra space in between frames. Then, when you get it, test it out! Load your film, then let it sit for a day or so. Then, take an exposure so that the film advances. Pop off the film back, remove the safety plate, and see if there's a bend within the exposure area. Hopefully there isn't!<br /> <br /> Furthermore, if you know how to, test the current draw :) <br /> <br /> This is the setup for testing it... should be obvious to anyone somewhat electronics savvy:<br /> <img src="http://rishisanyalphotography.com/ForumPostFiles/photo.net/MamiyaHM401-CurrentDraw.jpg" alt="" width="800" /><br /> <br /> It can be a bit difficult connecting the leads inside the battery compartment of the AFD body... but it's doable. Just don't short anything :) The film back should really have no draw when the body is off.<br /> <br /> Good luck to anyone going this route. Without that modified back, I would never invest in the Mamiya 645AFD system for film shooting.</p>