Colouring leather

<p>I expect an M2 to arrive soon. It has a body covering of blue leather and I do not like the idea of blue on a camera. I can apply a black Aki-Asahi skin right away, but I am thinking of trying first to colour the leather black. I like the feel of leather, and this covering is undamaged. Trouble is, I have no idea how I should proceed. As I do not trust myself to apply dye with a brush, I have been wondering if there is a something suitable similar to a Sharpie. The black should not come off on my hands and face. Advice requested.</p>

<p>Aside from the question of permanence, I doubt that a Sharpie™ will do an acceptable job. Maybe for filling in a rough place, but not the whole surface.<br>

You can buy new <em>leather</em> cover and have something worthy of the camera. If Aki-Asahi doesn't offer real leather, others do.</p>

<p>It takes strong aniline dyes to dye leather. I have some black shoe dye that I've used to touch up some old Kodak leather-covered cameras, but it really just appears to be "Magic Marker" juice.</p>

<p>How about a reasonable priced black leather half case from Zhou or another? I use a close-fitting one with my IIIc/f and another with my M4-P and they add a certain ease of handling and security to the use of the cameras. I think they were about $70 each. I am not sure, either, whether applying dye in paste form to a fairly rough surface will be easy to do in a uniform manner, and what would the odour of the dye have on the internals of a camera stored in a closed space or in a camera carrying bag?</p>

<p>Thank you, all. I wanted help with a specific matter and am not looking for alternatives. While I did say "I can apply a black Aki-Asahi skin right away", I omitted to add that such a skin will arrive with the camera, hence the "right away".<br>

There are small (4 oz.) packings of some dyes to be had, but I know nothing about them.</p>

<p>Dying leather can be a tricky business, I used to do a lot of leatherwork with aniline and water based dyes. The tricky thing is getting the leather to accept an even coat, and then getting the color depth right (typically one starts with a diluted solution and applies multiple coats), and finally finishing the leather with an appropriate protectant. My advice would be to do a full reskinning with a precut skin from Aki-Ashi or Cameraleather. At least then you will start with a professional grade covering, and your only issue will be the care with which you apply it (I've done several cameras...it just takes time and patience).</p>

<p>Thank you. I shall probably use the Aki-Asahi covering that is to come with the camera. I have done three Leica screw mount bodies and the task is not daunting. It seems wasteful to me to discard a sound covering whose only "defect" is cosmetic. My thinking is of the old kind: replace only if repair is impossible.</p>

<p>Mukul, you might ask a cobbler if they can dye the leather in place as they would for shoes. Just a thought.</p>

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<p>I wanted help with a specific matter and am not looking for alternatives.</p>

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<p>When you want specific information, remember that only a few here are mind-readers. You need to give specific information to get specific information. ;)</p>

<p>"I am thinking of trying first to colour the leather black.... Trouble is, I have no idea how I should proceed.... I have been wondering if there is a something suitable similar to a Sharpie.... Advice requested." Am I to understand that you cannot even read plain English? I know that others here can do that.</p>

 

<p>Jim, there's a cobbler here with whom I get on well. I've had him make a few lens cases and other things for me. He told me of a "stain" which should do the job but which can only be bought in large packings.</p>

<p>with your proposed solution, you'll be covered in black on your face, hands, and camera bag in no time -- changing the leather is easy -- the hard work is done, removing vulcanite can be deadly tough.... change the leather, takes 5 minutes even for the least handy of people</p>

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<p>I <em>omitted</em> to add that such a skin will arrive with the camera, hence the "right away".</p>

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<p>You're entirely welcome Mukul.</p>

<p>To what am I welcome, Sir? The omission has no bearing on the clauses reproduced in my last post, which together form a complete statement and are followed by a request. Wasted words are a powerful irritant.</p>

<p>Blake, there are colours that rub off and those that don't. Besides, there never was a "proposed solution".</p>

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<p>Wasted words are a powerful irritant.</p>

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<p>how true, how true. </p>

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<p>"changing the leather is easy -- the hard work is done, removing vulcanite can be deadly tough.... change the leather, takes 5 minutes even for the least handy of people" <strong><em>Blake B.</em></strong></p>

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<p>Very true, the toughest part is a clean removal of the failed material. But prepping the surface takes more than just 5 minutes. This extra time is the key to the fullest <strong>re-cover lifespan</strong>. I find it best to have all hazardous items out of the way so as not to risk exposure to finished parts (Levers, buttons, screws, plates and mount) to the harsh activity utilized in properly sanitizing the body shell.</p><div></div>

<p>Gus, I had endless trouble some years ago with a Zorki 1. Paint remover is most unpleasant stuff. This camera should not be difficult: the blue covering is from Cameraleather and the body shell will have been cleaned before it was applied. I have no way to remove the self-timer and frame preview levers; but the illustrated instructions on the Aki-Asahi site suggest that the task will be fairly easy, specially as the covering is not powerfully adhesive until pressed down.</p>

<p>I take absolutely no responsibility for what I am about to say! From my experience of making stuff in leather, you cannot get a new dye colour to penetrate the leather unless you first remove any surface wax and finger grease. You can do this by rubbing with alcohol (isopropyl or meths). Liquid leather dyes (stains) are easily available from cobblers. It is difficult to get the dye even. Make regular stripes side-by-side without overlaps, then repeat in a second direction. Even it out and chase it in using a cloth soaked in alcohol. Then re-wax with a hard colourless wax and lots of buffing, to seal the dye in and stop it coming off onto your fingers.<br>

It can be done really well with a little experience, especially on small areas, but your favourite camera is probably not the place for your first experiment. Personally, I wouldn't dream of attempting to dye leather already attached to the camera. So I really do think your best bet is to re-cover with a new leather in the colour you want, as others have advised.</p>

 

<p>Thank you, Jonathan. This is exactly what I wanted. Do not worry about being blamed if I walk off a cliff.</p>

<p>Some dyes are toxic and can be absorbed through skin. Methanol (wood alcohol) as most people know can cause blindness and is readily absorbed through skin.</p>

<p>It all ended tamely. Here, at midnight, is the M2 that had arrived in the afternoon. The surface of the blue leather covering looked unhealthy, so I put in its place the new Aki-Asahi "skin".</p><div></div>