paul t Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 I've just checked my heavystar 39mm on the Summicron C and it actually seems to fit perfectly, doesn't feel like it's cross threaded. Not a huge difference wrt how it fits on the 35mm Summicron. I still like the collapsible hood, though. <p> Michael E, you might be right re the M2, M3 and M4, but the 40mm is a pretty good fit for M6 35mm framelines. Is the V4 35/2 Summicron really 4 times as good as the Summicron C?? And the Summi C doesn't have the mechanical 'issues' that occasionally afflict the V4 35/2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joel_matherson Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 Michael S, thats not quite correct. The CL has its 40mm framelines always visible but on the CLE its 28mm framelines are the ones constantly visible. This modification makes the lens useless on a CLE. Monkey I think you too too much metal off as well. You have filed the corner off diagonally when it only requires slight filing at the flat face 90 degrees out and maintain that angle the whole time. To get the 50mm framelines to appear the way you have done it requires considerably more metal to be removed that required. The flange is almost gone! I bet rear lens caps will never clip on with the flange like this either. Hopefully the other 3 will hold the rear cap on. Sorry but although this way would work its not the best way to do it. I wouldnt be saving these photos Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lutz Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 Karen Nakamura has the answer re:filter thread in one of her very informative <a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Lens-LSM-Standard.html~mainFrame">Leica CL pages</a>:<p> <i>"The one caveat is that while the 40mm Summicron-C uses a 39mm filter thread, it's 39mm x 0.75mm. Standard Leica filters use a 39mm x 0.5mm. It's unclear why Leica chose to use a non-standard thread on this lens."</i><p> Apart from this, there is another heap of info to be found in <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CJzn">this thread</a>, amongst which:<p><i>"Victor Mayes , may 25, 2005; 08:20 p.m. The Summicron C will accept 39mm-the M-Rokkor will need 40.5mm."<p></i>Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCULUS New York Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 Thanks all! Since my collapsable rubber hoods are both in solid (if kinda wrinkled) condition, I think I'll stick with them, and avoid bunging up those threads. One last thought: anybody got any rubber lube suggestions for my wrinkled hoods? (OK, please avoid the sexual innuendo replies too) Don't know what glycerine would do, but that used to be considered some sort of balm for rubber. Then, who knows if these are real natural or synthetic or even silicone rubber?? Cheers, Ray Hull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_kaplan1 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I have a hood on my CL made from the original hood's metal part epoxied inside a Series VI hood where the Series VI filter would fit. Trim the remaining rubber down until it's a good tight fit in the hood then glue it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ev1 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Another hood option for the 40c is to cut the rubber hood away from the retaining ring and then fit a plastic rectangular hood for a 35 cron on to it. The 35 hood is rigid and smaller than a heavystar (which I really like, especially the price) and still allows the use of a 5.5 filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardMiller Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 <p>A useful (I hope) addition to an old thread: on my M6, I also vastly prefer using the 35 framelines, but I didn't want to permanently change the way my Rokkor-M worked. So I borrowed another idea I've found on the Web (can't remember where now, or I'd credit the author--it's definitely not original with me).</p> <p>Take the lid off a plastic film container--I've found the Ilford ones work best, and if you use a black one, it will not be so visible on your camera--and cut a small pie-shaped piece out of it. If you slip the pointy end under the frame selector lever, you can brace the rounded end against the lens mount ring, and it will hold the frame preview lever in the 35 position.</p> <p>It won't damage the camera, as it's simply doing what you do when you manually toggle the preview lever over to see what things look like through the 35 framelines, and obviates the need to modify the lens. Cheap, simple and non-destructive--the ideal DIY fix!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Doesn't the Heavystar block off some of the viewfinder that is visible with the tapered Leica lens shade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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